Tapered Legs

Status
Not open for further replies.

JimZ3

New User
Jim
Im building a dining room table out of some old tabbacco shack pine...I want to do 2 sided tapered legs..Ive done thinner ones before 2.5" to 1.25"....Id like these to be beefier 3.5" to 1.75"...My question is my tablesaw,10",cant make the full cut...Do I dare cut half they flip it and cut the other half?....Make a jig to do it on the bandsaw?.....Any ideas?
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
If I can't make a 'finish' cut in one pass on the TS, I opt for the BS and clean up the cut.
For breaking down thick balks, I'll make 2 cuts on the TS.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have done legs like that with my planer by mounting them to a piece of ply with a 1 3/4 block under one end You should be able to do two at a time and depending on the stiffness of the wood if the unsupported section flexes down under the pressure of the feed rollers, you will end up with a slight curve to the taper - I found that out by mistake:widea:. You can vary the amount of curve by controlling the amount of deflection.
phil
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
If I can't make a 'finish' cut in one pass on the tablesaw, I opt for the bandsaw and clean up the cut.
For breaking down thick balks, I'll make 2 cuts on the tablesaw.
Joe, have you ever used your tapering jig on the band saw? Seems like it would work if you had some sort of outfeed support.
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
How about an initial cut on the band saw, keeping the cut proud of the layout line. Then clean up the taper on a jointer or edge sander.
 

jglord

New User
John
I second striker’s recommendation to use a jointer to taper you legs. I used the process on a previous project with great results. I simply clamped a block on the in-feed table to set the starting point of the taper and made repeated passes while keeping pressure on the back-end of the piece.

Many folks inadvertently taper pieces on their jointer by not transferring pressure to the out-feed end after the board is partially cut. In this case, you can use this to your advantage and achieve a nice clean taper.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Cut the first one on the table saw, a tad proud. Finish the cut by following the kerf with bandsaw or hand saw. Plane or joint flat.

2nd cut will go all the way through for the majority of the cut. Finish the remainder like you did the first.

JMTCW

Go
 

JimZ3

New User
Jim
Striker,I am all over this!:icon_thum.....Thanks....I still have to run a 230 line for my jointer (next weekend)...I will post some pictures when I'm done with the legs...Thanks everyone
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Joe, have you ever used your tapering jig on the band saw? Seems like it would work if you had some sort of outfeed support.

No Bas, my BS is too small to support the sled. But I do stay proud of the line and finish with a power planner, then sand out any mill marks. Never get any exact matches, but I can't tell the difference at 3 feet. However, I'd like to hear your experience if you do it.
 

willarda

New User
Bill Anderson
Sawing them with a rip saw, then planing the two tapers flat and smooth is a pretty quick operation. Start sawing at the bottom of the leg, withthe leg in your shoulder vise with the last foot exposed. As you get down the cut, raise the leg. Hold your hand across the offcut to keep it tight to the leg to give your saw cut support. When you get near the end of the cut,slow down. After you have made both cuts, begin planing from the top of the taper (near where the aprons will be joined). This is an easy job beause youare always planing down hill with the grain.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I made a dining table many years ago when the only stationary tool I had was a RAS. I cut the tapers with a sled and the saw turned 90° to the table (rip mode). Then completed the cut with a hand saw and finished up with a hand plane. The legs were 3 1/2 square at the top tapered on two sides to 2 inches at the floor.

If I were doing it now I would make the cuts on the bandsaw and finish with the jointer.
 

richlife

New User
Rich
Sawing them with a rip saw, then planing the two tapers flat and smooth is a pretty quick operation. Start sawing at the bottom of the leg, withthe leg in your shoulder vise with the last foot exposed. As you get down the cut, raise the leg. Hold your hand across the offcut to keep it tight to the leg to give your saw cut support. When you get near the end of the cut,slow down. After you have made both cuts, begin planing from the top of the taper (near where the aprons will be joined). This is an easy job beause youare always planing down hill with the grain.

Yes, I agree -- mostly. Not trusting my table saw or my ripping capability, I would use a bandsaw and then finish with a jack plane. Perfect task to exercise (or develop) those planing skills. Likely wouldn't take any more time than useing a jointer either. (Though if you're not much into plane tuning and blade sharpening, you may have a task there :gar-Bi .) Rich
 

dino drosas

Dino
Corporate Member
I do all my tapered legs on the band saw using a jig. It is a very simple operation, especially only tapering two sides, and so much safer than using a table saw. Cut them about a 64th proud and clean them up on the joiner.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top