Here's the GET STARTED for the taper jig:
For ease of use, it is aligned on both sides with the blade. Simply set a mark to the edge, tighten the hold downs and cut. Tilt the blade away from the jig and make compound miters as well. The jig does NOT use the fence.
Most table saws have about about 11+ inches between the miter slots. If this is your situation, then you can use these instructions.
1. Take a slab of 3/4" BB (melamine should work too) 13" X 36" and lay it snug and square against the blade on the LH side.
2. Make a mark on the leading edge (edge that hits the blade first) of the slab, over the CENTER of the miter slot. Mark this edge as the LEADING EDGE.
a. Now place the slab snug and square against the blade on th RH side.
b. Make a mark on the LEADING EDGE over the CENTER of the miter slot.
3. Plow a shallow dado on the bottom of the slab, CENTERED between these marks, about 1/16" deep, wide enough for YOUR miter runner (usually 3/4") BE EXACT.
4. 5" from each end, on the top of the slab, cut a dado to accept YOUR T-track. Wide enough - deep enough for a snug professional fit. These tracks are where you attach the fence.
5. Mount a runner; leave an inch or so protruding from the LEADING EDGE so you'll never confuse the LEADING EDGE. Mark with an arrow or something.
NEVER GET CONFUSED about what is the LEADING EDGE!
Before the next Step. Check that the blade is 90 degrees.
6. With the runner in the respective miter slots, LEADING EDGE first, trim off each side.
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Rip a 2" wide X 36" long fence. Be critical that both sides are square and true. Rout a groove for the T-track that mounts the hold downs and stop block, down the center like this. You'll need 2 slots for the fence lock down. The slots give the fence a range of motion. 2" are long enough. Note the reliefs in the center allow for the tracks bolts removal/installation.
Instead of stopped dados, you can plow a continuous groove and glue in blocks with slots for the fence lock downs.
Optionally, you can skip the fence T-track and mount toggle hold downs and bolt a stop block on the fence end.
For ease of use, it is aligned on both sides with the blade. Simply set a mark to the edge, tighten the hold downs and cut. Tilt the blade away from the jig and make compound miters as well. The jig does NOT use the fence.
Most table saws have about about 11+ inches between the miter slots. If this is your situation, then you can use these instructions.
1. Take a slab of 3/4" BB (melamine should work too) 13" X 36" and lay it snug and square against the blade on the LH side.
2. Make a mark on the leading edge (edge that hits the blade first) of the slab, over the CENTER of the miter slot. Mark this edge as the LEADING EDGE.
a. Now place the slab snug and square against the blade on th RH side.
b. Make a mark on the LEADING EDGE over the CENTER of the miter slot.
3. Plow a shallow dado on the bottom of the slab, CENTERED between these marks, about 1/16" deep, wide enough for YOUR miter runner (usually 3/4") BE EXACT.
4. 5" from each end, on the top of the slab, cut a dado to accept YOUR T-track. Wide enough - deep enough for a snug professional fit. These tracks are where you attach the fence.
5. Mount a runner; leave an inch or so protruding from the LEADING EDGE so you'll never confuse the LEADING EDGE. Mark with an arrow or something.
NEVER GET CONFUSED about what is the LEADING EDGE!
Before the next Step. Check that the blade is 90 degrees.
6. With the runner in the respective miter slots, LEADING EDGE first, trim off each side.
__________________________________________________ ___________
Rip a 2" wide X 36" long fence. Be critical that both sides are square and true. Rout a groove for the T-track that mounts the hold downs and stop block, down the center like this. You'll need 2 slots for the fence lock down. The slots give the fence a range of motion. 2" are long enough. Note the reliefs in the center allow for the tracks bolts removal/installation.
Instead of stopped dados, you can plow a continuous groove and glue in blocks with slots for the fence lock downs.
Optionally, you can skip the fence T-track and mount toggle hold downs and bolt a stop block on the fence end.