tablesaw blade?

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alleng

New User
allen
hey guys,my question is this,....i have the ridgid 5650,it came with a thin kerf gp blade that leaves a little to be desired to say the least.should i stick with a thin kerf blade,or can i use and get better results with a thick kerf blade? your imput will be appreciated,as there are at least a thousand different blades out there,problem is picking the right one without having 10 or so hanging on the wall that are no better than what i started with.mabie my saw is underpowered for a standard kerf>???thanks allen.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
TK blades are often recommended for lower powered saws, because they have to remove less material per cut. But a TK blade is more prone to deflection than a FK. I use a TK WWII primarily on my 2 HP saw and have never had a cut that was less than I hoped for. But my Rip Blade is FK and I use it when ever I have a lot of heavy ripping to do.
A FK blade on your saw might require that you slow down the feed rate a little.
What is wrong with having 10 blades hanging on the wall...that's art :lol: :lol: :lol:

MTCW,
Dave:)
 

rhett

New User
rhett
I agree with Dave about keeping TK blades on lower hp saws. You can always add a stabilizer to the blade to help with vibration, but this reduces the depth of cut. Or, I know a trim carpenter who sandwiches his 10" blade with two old 7 1/4" circular saw blades on his jobsite saw with very nice results.
 

DavidF

New User
David
From my experience with my dewalt hybrid at 1 3/4 hp the TK requirement is a bit of a myth unless you you want to power feed at full speed! I have cut full depth (3 1/2 +") in Walnut and with the original dewalt combo it cuts just fine. I think the sacrifice in quality from a TK blade is not worth it. That said, I have a TK WWII for sale if you are interested. Just sharpened.
 

junquecol

Bruce
User
Lowes now sells the rebranded DeWalt 7657 for $39.99. It is now a Delta blade, with same last four digits. It is a very good general purpose blade (40 tooth), often compaired to the Forrest WWII, but at less than half the price. Your saw should have no problem pulling this blade. As DeWalt, it had 30 day satisfaction guarentee, but I haven't checked to see if same applies to Delta branding. If so, buy it, and try it. Unhappy, take it back. Can't loose that way.
 

Bryan S

Bryan
Corporate Member
I have installed the Freud Lu84 full kerf on my contractor saw and while I havent done enough ripping to get a good feel yet I can say that crosscuts are like going through butter compared to the old blade also a Freud, cant remember what just remember it was a finishing blade from the borg several years ago.

I
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I have a 3650 as well. I have a full kerf Freud LU84R011 (50t) that will cut through 2+" white oak as long as you go slow. That said, the blade that stays on my saw all the time is a Freud Avanti TK406 60T, as the LU84 does not give as smooth a cut. I rip, cross cut, etc, and it gives glueline cuts, even in the 2" white oak. Much better than the stock blade, but not as expensive as some of the top of the line. (I had problems with the stock blade following the grain and warping when ripping thick lumber. Have not had that problem with the Freud thin kerf).
That said, when it finally dies I will give a DeWalt a chance, as I have had very good luck with it on my miter saw. The local Lowes has quit carrying the 60T Avanti. I do think I have noticed some flex in the DeWalt, tho, so it may not work as well for ripping.
Only the LU84 has enough carbide to go through much resharpening, tho, so if you are going to be doing a lot of hardwood work for a while, the higher priced blades may be more economical.

JMTCW

Go
 
M

McRabbet

The 10-inch 50-tooth Stehle blade I bought at the Greensboro Expo for $28.60 from Woodtech Enterprises of Fairview, NC has gotten a good workout in the past week. I've been making a Toy Box for my Grandson out of White Oak and have ripped all of the rails, stiles, panels and legs from 4/4 to 8/4 stock. The four legs are 1-3/4 by 3-3/4 by 26 inches long and today I had to rip a fifteen degree bevel that required the blade to be set up as high as it would go and tilted fifteen degrees. My Grizzly has a 3 HP motor and the blade walked right through the 26 inch long cuts with barely any saw marks. The saw cut is 2-7/8" wide and the blade is still scary sharp.

Rob
 
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