Table Saw Fence system

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walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
I have been considering a good fence system for my old (1977 model) Sears 12" table saw for quite a while. I browsed the Biesemeyer site and contacted them for a reccomendation, which they promptly replied via e-mail. Does anyone have this system in use? What are the pros and cons?

There is so much on the market it is mind boggling. I am open to hearing about other systems as well. Any input is appreciated. The old saw still runs strong and I hate the thoughts of updating the whole machine just because the fence is aggravation!!

Thanks a bunch---------------------Jerry
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I use a Biesemeyer clone fence on my Grizzly saw. I like it. It locks very ridged and is easy to add axillary fences to it. My only complaint is that mine doesn't track square, it squares up great when you lock it down, but when it slides it can go askew. I generally have to set the fence, lock it, check the measurement and fine adjust it. My scale is dead on, but I still don't trust it.
My .02, Dave:)

P.S. I moved your thread to Power Tools, it is a more appropriate thread in that forum
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
Jerry, I have the 50 inch Biesemeyer fence on my unisaw. The fence is rugged and very repeatable. I does not deflect or move. I adjusted it new 3 years ago and have not touched it since.

I also considered the unifence but in the end opted for the Biesemeyer. Both are great fences.

And there are others. :lol: :lol: You need to go out and kick some tires.

Chuck
 

oldnick

New User
christian delciotto
Hi there,I have just installed a Biesemeyer fence on a Saw Stop. I had to drill new holes for it but the fence itself is fantastic :eusa_clap. It is my understanding that biesemeyer is a branch of Delta. In any case you are doing a good buy. Let us know :icon_thum.
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
cpowell said:
Jerry, I have the 50 inch Biesemeyer fence on my unisaw. The fence is rugged and very repeatable. I does not deflect or move. I adjusted it new 3 years ago and have not touched it since.

I also considered the unifence but in the end opted for the Biesemeyer. Both are great fences.

And there are others. :lol: :lol: You need to go out and kick some tires.

Chuck

Chuck---------When you got your Biesemeyer, did you have to order rails for the fence seperately? If I read their site correctly that is what has to be done. That means about 430 bucks for the guide and 48" fence!!!! Is that in the ball park?

Jerry
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
Jerry, that seems to be about what Lowe's is charging for the Biesemeyer fence on their new line of Delta saws.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I have the Biesemeyer on my PM 66 and have had it over 10 years. It came with the saw when I bought it as this was before Biesemeyer was acquired by Powermatic. IMO, the T-square style whether Biesemeyer or clone is a good system for ensuring it locks square. The only complaint I have with it is that it does not lock in the back and if you use feather boards to hold stuff down you should put a clamp to hold it down.

After paying 3 times what I think I should for a splitter from Biesemeyer, my suggestion is to shop around. HTC now makes what appear to be nice fences, Sommerville Design (Excalibur), and Vega are a couple of others I have heard good things about. The unifence has a couple of nice features that the Biesemeyer doesn't. Being able to flip the fence around for cutting laminates, adjusting it to be a cut off marker, etc. Unfortunately, it to does not lock at the back so it has the same problem as the Biesemeyer in my opinion.

If you do decide to go with the Biesemeyer, I don't think you will regret it.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
It isn't bad, just for me, it makes it irritating with feather boards. I put a clamp on the back most of the time, sometimes I don't, and it seems to do ok, but I am chicken. Murphy's law always applies in my shop. If it can be screwed up, I will do it.
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
My 1990s Griz had the bearing on the rear rail and I removed it. The fence clamps as well without it and mounting an outfeed support was much easier. That said, it wasn't a great fence to begin with :eusa_shhh

Sapwood
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
To cut 48" the rails are actually around 6ft long. They do think a lot of their equipment. Lot of steel in it. Two 6 ft pieces of angle iron a 1/4 inch thick, then the steel tube. It is a lot of money, no arg from me.
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
I, too, have an old Craftsman saw. I found a Vega Professional 50" fence system on E-Bay for $150.00. It had never been used. Installation was a snap and I love it (of course, anything would be better than the piece of junk that came with the saw). I also replaced both side tables, not just to accomodate the right side for the new fence, but widened the left side to 40". Also, replaced the motor. It says it is rated at 3 hp, but that is a bunch of baloney. The motor pulled 13 amps, which equals 1 hp. and it could only run on 110. I now have a 2 hp that runs on 220. Much better.

Anyway, any of the aftermarket fences ( HFC, Bisemeyer, etc.) should greatly improve your saw.

Jim in Mayberry
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
walnutjerry said:
Chuck---------When you got your Biesemeyer, did you have to order rails for the fence seperately? If I read their site correctly that is what has to be done. That means about 430 bucks for the guide and 48" fence!!!! Is that in the ball park?

Jerry

Jerry, I bought my unisaw new and had a choice of Biese or unifence, so in essence, the Biese fence came with my unisaw, so it was "free". :lol:

I agree 400+ dollars sounds like a lot of money for a Biese fence system. I don't know that I would pay that outright. But I've gotta tell you I love the fence.

Travis, when you mention featherboards do you mean mounted against the side of the fence to hold the stock down to the tabletop? I agree the fence does not lend itself readily for this...and making jigs for the Biese means drilling holes in the fence or using clamps.

I don't ever clamp the fence rear down. It would take a pretty good force to move it upward when clamped. But it looks like it'd be easy the attach a piece of steel to the rear bottom of the fence tube on a bolt so that it would ride around 1/16th below the rear frame (angle iron). Just rotate when you want to remove the fence.

Good luck on the fence search, Jerry. I feel a gloat is close at hand!! :lol: :lol:

Chuck
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
Yep, that is what I mean. If I use a lot of pressure on featherboards (which I probably apply too much at times, I can see the back rise slightly. If I go to the back and pick up on it I can move it some, not much but some. As far as side to side, absolutely no give. In the 13 years I have had the saw and fence, I have moved it 5 times and reassembled it with good success. I have only adjusted it once, and that was recently when I decided to clean and tune it up. It was off very little, and most likely IIRC, I probably got it out of line screwing with it years ago when I shouldn't have been.
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
kota62 said:

OUCH!!!!! you have added to the agony:crybaby2: ------the vega 50" fence for half the money of a Biesemeyer!!!! Help me!!!!!!!!! I feel a disease coming on. :roll: :roll: 16 hours left on the amazon sale!!!!!!!! What must I do :-? :-? :-?

Jerry
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
kota62 said:

I checked out those sites (thanks BTW) and the description says it (the Vega fence) will fit "most" sears 10" saws----------I wonder how it will work with the 12" sears saw?

If I screw up in the mounting I have gained nothing.............

Jerry
 

kota62

New User
Gary Noble
Jerry:
I would imagine that simply drilling and tapping new holes would solve any alignment problems with the 12" saw (just my opinion) when i installed my unifence there was a bit of room to allow for alignment built into the rails...

I would think that the savings of buying the vega can be justified in the fact that if you don't like it you could always e-bay it and easily recover what you paid....
enjoy your quandry :)
Gary
 
M

McRabbet

I would recommend the fence that came standard on my Grizzly G1023SLX, the Shop Fox "Classic" fence. Both faces are covered with 1/2" thick ultra high molecular weight polyethylene and it is rock solid -- it uses heavy 7' rails (about $300 delivered). If you need a smaller fence, the same one is available with shorter rails for $250 delivered. Rock solid fence and can take fixtures in the center tube or clamped over the plastic.

Rob
 
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