Suggestions for band saw blade tensioning

[Chipper]

Hi Gang,
I haven't posted in a while. I'm trying to figure out the best way to tell if my BS blade is doing it's best. I'd like the best cut possible when sawing veneer. I have a MM 16 witha 1" Resaw King. Laguna says tension it just to the point it does wander in the cut. Some say use the flutter method. Some say to use a stretch/stress micrometer. Does anyone have any tips for blade tension for resawing.

 

[cpowell]

You can go nuts over this. I have an MM16 and use Si-steel bands. I tension by hand. John (Woodguy) showed me the approach several years ago and it has worked just fine.

With the top door open and machine off (pull plug) I push against the blade with 2 fingers on my right hand. I push at the blade (on the left hand side as you face the open door) just above where the blade emerges from the frame tube. I target about 1/4 inch with good pressure using the pad of the index and middle fingers.

Once you get the tension right, then track so the teeth are just over the front edge of the tire. The teeth can be moved slightly more toward the center as you work with blades with less set. 1/4 inch or less can be placed center tire. You want the band to be flat on the tire surface...if the set portion of the teeth are riding on the flat then it will affect tracking and the cut quality.

I played with digital calipers and clamps when I first got it but in the end the finger approach works just fine.

If you are resawing and the cut is not dead straight, but rather bowed then your tension is too low. I generally leave a 1/2 inch band on my saw and have never had problems resawing. I am usually resawing for bookmatching/drawer stock or to reduce heavy stock rather than running through the planer. If you are resawing veneers by hand then technique is critical.

(steps onto safety soapbox). BTW always think about what would happen if the wood you're pushing suddenly "broke out". Be sure your hand wouldn't carry into the blade if the wood disappeared. Make sure the wood is supported well if you are cutting curvy shapes. The blade will impart a strong downward movement when making certain unsupported cuts.

The bandsaw is safe but there is a potential for devastating injury. Use push sticks, featherboards, outfeed roller as needed when resawing. (steps down from safety soapbox)


Chuck

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Once you get the tension right, then track so the teeth are just over the front edge of the tire. The teeth can be moved slightly more toward the center as you work with blades with less set. 1/4 inch or less can be placed center tire. You want the band to be flat on the tire surface...if the set portion of the teeth are riding on the flat then it will affect tracking and the cut quality.

I'm realitively new at bandsaw setup. What I've seen about tracking always points to centering the blad on the tire. Can you talk a bit more about tracking?

Thanks,

Travis

 

[Trent Mason]

I have the bottom of the line 14" Grizzly and have never had much success with tensioning it. I use a half inch blade and crank the tension knob until I physically can't turn it anymore and still have issues. :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

 

[dino drosas]

The 1 " carbide blades require quite a bit of tension (30,000 psi) and I am not certain that the 16" saw can even obtain that. I would tighten it as much as possible. I just about do that on my Laguna 24" saw and get great results re-sawing. Let me also say that I use a 1' Lenox Tri-Master carbide blade and not the Laguna brand. I run the blade with the carbide tips of the blade hanging off of the edge of the wheel. The only time I run the blade in the center of the wheel is when I am using a very narrow blade.

 

[CrealBilly]

I tighten mine till it plucks a C note with the jaws fully open, That way the machine sings in a nice natural key as the band goes through the log.

 

[Chipper]

I'm realitively new at bandsaw setup. What I've seen about tracking always points to centering the blad on the tire. Can you talk a bit more about tracking?
Thanks,
Travis

Travis, There are two types of band saw tires. Crowned and flat. In either case, when a blade has more set to the teeth, as is the general case as blades get bigger/wider, the blade backing runs on the crown and the teeth are not touching the tire. Theeth on the tire will not only wear the tires but also affect tracking and vibration, affecting the cut quality. With a flat tire, the blades must be run at the front edge with the teeth just overhanging the wheels. Small narrow fine blades will usually have a smaller amount of set so the edge of crown position is les critical. I still rum my 1/4" 14 tpi at the edge.

That's some big teeth

Nice SYP veener :gar-Bi

 

[Chipper]

The 1 " carbide blades require quite a bit of tension (30,000 psi) and I am not certain that the 16" saw can even obtain that. I would tighten it as much as possible. I just about do that on my Laguna 24" saw and get great results re-sawing. Let me also say that I use a 1' Lenox Tri-Master carbide blade and not the Laguna brand. I run the blade with the carbide tips of the blade hanging off of the edge of the wheel. The only time I run the blade in the center of the wheel is when I am using a very narrow blade.

Dino,
I'll check with Laguna on Monday but I thought they were talking more in the 15k to 19k range. The Trimaster may in fact be a higher tension blade. I have a new Tri Master but I need to get it welded to the proper length for this saw.
Anyone know of a Lenox dealer in the Norfolk area?

 

[cpowell]

Travis, There are two types of band saw tires. Crowned and flat. In either case, when a blade has more set to the teeth, as is the general case as blades get bigger/wider, the blade backing runs on the crown and the teeth are not touching the tire. Theeth on the tire will not only wear the tires but also affect tracking and vibration, affecting the cut quality. With a flat tire, the blades must be run at the front edge with the teeth just overhanging the wheels. Small narrow fine blades will usually have a smaller amount of set so the edge of crown position is les critical. I still rum my 1/4" 14 tpi at the edge.

That's some big teeth

Nice SYP veener :gar-Bi

It wasn't clear to me when I read your first post that you already knew what you were doing and just wanted confirmation.

Those pics make it clear! :icon_thum

Have you played around with any 8 inch stock (or whatever your jointer width)?

Have you played around with feed rate? I get a better surface pushing the stock a little bit.


Chuck

 

[Chipper]

Hi Chuck,
I'm very much in "testing phase" looking for ideas. Just got the saw and the next day the RK blade arrived. Your post was very helpful. I was going to try the caliper trick or possibly buy a tensin gauge but it sounds like the finger deflection method is about all I need. Laguna was saying just tension it to the point of no flutter. This seems to work. I haven't tried 8" stock yet or anything figured.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Travis, There are two types of band saw tires. Crowned and flat. In either case, when a blade has more set to the teeth, as is the general case as blades get bigger/wider, the blade backing runs on the crown and the teeth are not touching the tire. Theeth on the tire will not only wear the tires but also affect tracking and vibration, affecting the cut quality. With a flat tire, the blades must be run at the front edge with the teeth just overhanging the wheels. Small narrow fine blades will usually have a smaller amount of set so the edge of crown position is les critical. I still rum my 1/4" 14 tpi at the edge.

Thanks for the infor Chipper. So, to make sure I understand. If the tire is crowned, run in the center. If flat, run the teeth just off the edge. That about right?

Thanks,

Travis

 

[Herebrooks]

Hi all: I was talking to Brian Boggs(the chair maker and teacher) a while back about cabinet scrapers and he did something interesting to me. I was inquiring about how he sharpened his scrapers and he brought out a pad of paper and drew a picture of what was happening at the surface of the wood. Later, I realized I had been focused on the tool itself rather than the action the tool was having on the wood. I think there is a parallel to resawing with the bandsaw.
There are alot of variables. Type of saw,thickness of blade,style of tooth,type of guide,hardness of material,gauge of blade...
I have an old c-frame Tannewitz with Wright guides(4 sets of callipers). I can crank the tension up to where I can no longer turn the tensioning knob. For years I used a 1/2" blade because they were cheaper, and if I bought them in quantity(16 or more) I could get them for 8.00 each(13'6" blade) so I could change them out more often when they started to get dull. I now use a 5/8" and have them resharpened.
I guess what I'm trying to say, is that the proof is in the cut. With all the variables, one needs to experiment to see what works with your particular equipment. I personally have found the thinner(gauge) blade the better, the fewest teeth(hook tooth)the better,the most tension the better.
Bill