Split Oak Repair

[BrianBDH]

The pulpit in our church was made from red oak by one of our members. It is stained a nice golden oak color. It is about 18 months to 2 years old. The front is a large glue-up of solid boards, probably 3/4, with a good size raised panel in the middle.

About 4-5 weeks ago, I noticed a crack in the front panel. It is in the upper right hand side where it is very obvious. It looks to me like the raised panel has expanded and caused the outer panel to split. It is not in a joint, but in the grain. It is probably 1/8 wide by 3-4 inches long.

I would like to offer a suggestion for minimizing the crack. The pulpit is built like a tank, and taking it apart is not an option. Seems to me the best option is to fill the crack with either a matching color filler, or with filler that will take stain. But I have little experience with filler, and it wasn't good in regards to taking stain.

I don't have a photo, but will try to get one today.

What would you guys suggest?

Thanks,

Brian

 

[steviegwood]

I have had some success with sawdust and ca glue or any wood glue that dries clear such as titebond moulding and trim glue. You may want to even stain the sawdust first and let it dry. I would suggest trying it on a scrap first and try to re-create the problem and then repair it to see how well it blends. That is a good sized crack to fill in an obvious spot so an experiment on scrap may help. Steve

 

[Jeff]

Brian,

A pic would be very helpful. Is this going to be an on-site repair? Can you access the crack from both the front and back? Can the pulpit be laid down horizontally?

I've had good results with West System epoxy. The #206 hardener has an open working time of about 20+ minutes when used with the #205 resin. The microfiber additive is added to the mixed epoxy to give a consistency ranging from catsup to mayo to peanut butter so sagging/running can be minimized if you have to do a vertical repair. I've got plenty of the microfiber and can mail some to you if you're interested. Caution: Don't buy the epoxy stuff at the BORGs!

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

Color: Can add a little golden oak stain to the above mix or some TransTint dye that approximates the finished color that you want.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11448

 

[ZachEakes]

I'd also use west systems epoxy.

I would drill a hole at the end of the crack to relieve the stress of the crack, even if its just a 1/32nd.

Take a sander to some red oak of similar color with 220-320 grit and pile up the dust and mix it in to the 105/206 mix. Mix it up until it is almost peanut butter consistency. Put packing tape on both sides of the crack and use an acid brush/glue brush to get some glue deep into crack, then use a plastic squeedgee to push the glue in until it is flush.

Cabosil or fumed silica will make everything sag free... as wood flour on its own will sag, or you can use mylar packing tape right across the top and take a credit card to make it absolutely flat.

When you it kicks off 6-8 hours or so, come back and peel off the tape, and with a card scraper or razor blade held perpendicular the surface and scrape off the glue edge. If you don't over fill the hole, epoxy shrinks around 2% so it will be a low spot along the crack.

Microfibers are a structural filler that toughens the epoxy, but are quite hard to sand...

So long as the stain that was used on the piece was not alcohol based, you can use the same stain mixed in the epoxy up to 12% by volume without degrading the structural properties of the glue... I would mix a test batch for color match and apply it to some red oak and see if you are in the ball park, as you've only one chance.

http://www.epoxyworks.com/21/pigments.html

 

[Tarhead]

Filler will show no matter how you do it or what you use. If you can get to the back side of the split you can use a luthier trick and glue some temporary turrets on either side of the crack, run some thin glue into the crack and clamp the turrets to close the joint. If you use low temp hot glue stick glue on the turrets you can use a hair drier to remove the them after the split is dry. After the repair you can glue some diamond cleats crossgrain along the back of the crack to reinforce the joint.

Here is a master at work on an old double bass basket case. I love his sewer pipe clamps! :

 

[wood magnet]

First of all I would see if the member who built the
pulpit knows about the crack. He/She may want to
do the repair him/herself. :wsmile:

 

[BrianBDH]

Thanks everybody. I can tell that you guys are serious about making nearly invisible repairs.

I did what Wood Magnet suggested. I mentioned it to the guy who made it, actually I spoke to his wife. But anyway, last Wed he filled it in with some dark filler. It actually looks good because it blends in well with the grain pattern.

I don't know how it is going to hold up, but hopefully it will be a good long-term solution.

Thanks for all the advise. I will file the suggestions away for some of my mistakes, and there will be plenty.

Brian

 

[ehpoole]

If it is roughly 3/4" thick, even pocket screws (on the hidden interior side) could be an option to reinforce and draw closed the split after first filling the crack with glue. Between the glue (once set) and the pocket screws there should be a good deal of mechanical strength.

 

[jmauldin]

I know this is too late, since the repair has already been done. However, in the future, do not use filler. Instead, cut a thin spline and glue it in place. It can then be stained to match the existing wood. This is the method used in museums, as well as myself.
Jim in Mayberry