Spindle Extension

[jg2259]

Hi all, new turner here. I have a Central Machinery 12" lathe and just started to make some faceplates for it by epoxying a 1" x 8tpi nut into it. I was trying to mount a 10 1/2" faceplate to the spindle but it won't fit. The faceplate is being blocked by side of the motor. This is supposed to hace a 12" swing, which I realize might be closer to 10 1/2" with the banjo.
But I only have an 8" swing because of the motor. I think I got ripped off by false advertising.

Does anyone manufacture a 1" x 8tpi to 1" x 8tpi extension that I might purchase so I can turn larger items?

I did a quick google search but didn't see anything.
Thanks for any and all help.

Jim

 

[woodturner2014]

Jim, the motor should not be in the way. Maybe you have the headstock mounted backwards? Not really familiar with that brand but none of the lathes I've used have the motor that close to the bed to interfere with the maximum swing. You shouldn't use an extension since that could cause other problems with run out or additional load on the spindle when doing faceplate turning. A 12" swing would have 6" from spindle center to the bed. The largest faceplate would be less than 12" diameter. I hope this may help. Harry

 

[jg2259]

Thanks woodturner.
I will take a pic of what I'm trying to describe, when I get home from work. There is only 4" from the center of spindle, to the side of the motor, allowing only an 8" faceplate. If my faceplate is thick enough, It would allow the actual bowl to be past the end of the motor, thus allowing a larger bowl to be turned.

Looking at the lathe, i don't see how it could be changed.

 

[jg2259]

After looking at this pic of the same type of lathe that I have, and remembering how the stock faceplate is configured, the part that threads onto the spindle is longer. I can't remember exactly how long it is, but the faceplate that I made is only one 1" x 8tpi nut, embedded into a 1 1/2" laminated faceplate. The only work around that I can see at this point, is to add washers, or another nut put on spindle first, then mounting faceplate, to let it protrude past the end of the motor. I don't know if that would be a safe alternative.

 

[woodturner2014]

Jim, just re-cut the faceplate diameter smaller to clear the motor and add another layer to the outboard side of the faceplate and you'll be good to go. I made several glue blocks before I got my first chuck so I understand what you are doing with the nut. However, I went a step further by using a 1" * 8 TPI tap to actually tap my own threads directly in the glue block. Never had any problems.
As a side note, your faceplate really doesn't need to be 12" diameter. I use a 6" on my 22" swing Grizzly and only 3" on the 12" swing Delta and Craftsman.
Good luck and enjoy your turning experiences.
Harry

 

[Charles Lent]

Other brands of lathes of that size seem to all have their motors hanging out the end of the lathe. Is it possible that the motor and housing was installed the wrong way?
I'm only making an observation. No experience here.

Charley

 

[jg2259]

Thanks Harry,
I've looked into the Beall tap for 1" x 8 tpi, and I may go that route in the future. But For around $22, I can buy a s___load of nuts, and thought I would just try it this way for now. Someday, I'd like to buy a chuck, and almost did pull the trigger on one. But after doing alot of research, woodturners have been turning for a long time before there were chucks, so I am going to try some of the techniques that I've read about, turning bowls and platters without a chuck.

I know I'm cheap, but when the time comes that I realize that I really do need a chuck, I will buy one.

Jim

 

[mkepke]

Jim..you can use washers to shim out the faceplate as long as you have enough threads engaging. That might be a problem with your design of faceplate. I like to have the face of the nut sit tight against the shoulder of the spindle, but that's apparently not crucial according to other turners.

If you promise not to sue me, you can have one of my homemade 1x8 tpi 5.5" all steel faceplates for free. Pm me if interested.

-Mark

 

[jg2259]

Thanks so much Mark. But I do have a 6" steel faceplate that came with my lathe. But for some reason that is beyond me, I thought plywood or mdf would be better. I was worried about hitting the steel with my turning tool, but now that I think about it, I can always put plywood on the steel faceplate, then mount my piece to plywood. And after the recommendation that I don't need a large faceplate for most turnings, I think I will just make some smaller ones.

 

[mkepke]

Thanks so much Mark. But I do have a 6" steel faceplate that came with my lathe. But for some reason that is beyond me, I thought plywood or mdf would be better. I was worried about hitting the steel with my turning tool, but now that I think about it, I can always put plywood on the steel faceplate, then mount my piece to plywood. And after the recommendation that I don't need a large faceplate for most turnings, I think I will just make some smaller ones.

OK, no worries.

BTW,the CW is never to use plywood for glue-blocks because of the risk of delamination.

-Mark

 

[jg2259]

Thanks, I'll definitely remember that.

 

[Roy G]

Jim, you could put a larger wooden faceplate on your steel one. That way you can put the top of your finished bowl against it when you are finishing the bottom.

Roy G

 

[pathgore]

Jim, that's the Harbour Freight lath, yes? I used to use a jointed/planed 2x6 or 2x8 screwed to the faceplate, turn round, then glue the wood to be turned to the 2x. Wood to be turned needs to be flat for a good glue bond.