Shelving question...

[pslamp32]

I'm getting ready to build some built-in shelving. The spacing between the studs are ~22". Accounting for the carcasse and a few spacers I'm estimating ~20" spans for shelves. I'm using the 3/4 " 'cabinet-ply' from HD (I'll be painting) . Is this too long for shelves without extra support? The shelves will be fastened to the carcasse with glue and screws in 1/4" dadoes. Thanks!

 

[DavidF]

I'm getting ready to build some built-in shelving. The spacing between the studs are ~22". Accounting for the carcasse and a few spacers I'm estimating ~20" spans for shelves. I'm using the 3/4 " 'cabinet-ply' from HD (I'll be painting) . Is this too long for shelves without extra support? The shelves will be fastened to the carcasse with glue and screws in 1/4" dadoes. Thanks!

That all depends on what you are going to put on it:eusa_danc

Have a look at this link.
http://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator.htm

Hope that helps.

 

[pslamp32]

Thanks. Said I could put up to 70 lbs evenly distributed and only get .01" of deflection. Seems strong enough.

 

[nelsone]

If you put some type of edge moulding on the front and back edge of the shelves you will significantly strengthen the shelves. If your shelves are 3/4, add an edge treatment that is 1 1/2 high. That will give you 3/4 extra below the shelves. I'm not sure if I'm explaining this very well. I can draw a sketch if that would help.

 

[DaveO]

I would edge the shelves anyways, just for looks to cover up the ply edges. An added bonus would be the additional strength....shelves always seem to end up with more stuff on them than you planned for.
Dave

 

[pslamp32]

If you put some type of edge moulding on the front and back edge of the shelves you will significantly strengthen the shelves. If your shelves are 3/4, add an edge treatment that is 1 1/2 high. That will give you 3/4 extra below the shelves. I'm not sure if I'm explaining this very well. I can draw a sketch if that would help.

Wouldn't this make it difficult to fit into the dada then? If the shelf is 3/4" so is the dado. How does this work in your scenario? Unless you don't use dadoes maybe?

 

[DaveO]

Easy, just make your shelf edging shorter than the shelf length, by the depth of the dadoes. Are you planning on using face frames?
Dave

 

[nelsone]

Since you are making fixed shelves, you can build a face frame that will act as the edge treatment too. I was going to take a pic of a shelve unit we have, but my camera needs to charge. I'll see if I can get you one after a while.

 

[pslamp32]

That doesn't make sense to me Dave. If the edging is shorter then you would see the 'unedged' ply when looking down the dado from the front.

I thought about doing a frame but I don't think I quite understand the concept. I think I need some tutoring in the art of face frames. Is it easier than edge banding? I usually just edgeband a 1/2" thick hardwood band on the ply. It is a bit tedious so I thought about experimenting with a frame but have never tried. This shelving system is most certainly not what you would call 'fine' WWing. As I said earlier It will most likely be painted so I am looking for the easiest solution that looks decent. Can someone give me the pros/cons of edgebanding versus faceframe? Thanks.

 

[nelsone]

See if this helps. the edge of your molding will meet the side of the shelf unit. The part of the shelf that extends beyond the molding will be enclosed in the dado.

 

[McRabbet]

Peter,

Here is a one page explanation of Face Frames. If you have conventional kitchen cabinets, go take a look at them and you'll see how they cover the carcass of the cabinet box and provide a surface to mount the cabinet doors. In your case, the face frame will cover the plywood edges of the shelf carcass and it can made wider than the plywood sides if you want, just like most kitchen cabinets. If you inset the shelves into a dado and shape them like Ed Nelson has shown, that notch is where the face frame will be located (vertically), covering the side walls of the case and the dado.

There is a good video showing how to make face frames in a production shop by Kreg Tools using pocket screws, a fast and convenient method to assemble the rails and stiles that make up the frame. I use the Kreg K3 Master Jig and manually drill and screw my face frames -- if you wanted, you could use your Domino to join the parts almost as easily.

 

[DavidF]

I think we've over complicated Peters project! I guess he really wants to do faced ply in a through dado. It works for me! if you wanted to make it a little different then make the edge banding of a different colour and then the part that overlaps the verticals would form a nice pattern. Shelves should be easy;-)