Shellac question

[DaveO]

I would like to finish some QS Sycamore in garnet/orange/amber shellac. I really don't want to buy a big lot of flakes and then wait for them to dissolve and the wax to decant.I generally use Zinnsers Sealcoat for the ease and availability, but it only comes in blond. I am debating two options. One is to add some alcohol based dye to the Sealcoat giving it a more red color. Two is to use Zinnsers Amber shellac (not de-waxed) and then top coat that with the de-waxed Sealcoat to provide a good barrier for an oil based varnish or Polyurethane. What might be the best way to go?
Anyone in the Raleigh area have a small amount of garnet shellac flakes they want to trade something for?
Dave

 

[Sir Chiz]

Dave,adding a second coat of shellac will "melt" into and mix with the first coat, wax from the first coat will migrate into the second, and successive coats, which will no longer be "dewaxed".
This will cause adhesion problems for a "poly" resin topcoat, but not for an alkyd or phenolic resin varnish.
Minwax Antique Oil and McClosky "Heirloom" varnish are alkyd resin, Waterlox uses phenolic resin.
If you have to use "poly", skip the waxed shellac and use a little dye.


Chiz.

 

[DaveO]

Thanks for that info Phil !!! I will just use Waterlox for the top coat instead of Poly, I like it better anyways.
Dave

 

[4yanks]

Dave,

I use shellac flakes a lot. The difference between flakes and Zinser is startling. Mixed shellac is harder and therefore rubs out much nicer. Supposedly freshly mixed shellac will also be more moisture resistant. I finish all my pieces with a final coat of wax and will periodically reapply it. Which adds to its protection. It is possible to get dewaxed shellac in other forms than blonde. http://www.shellacshack.com/?gclid=CMqPkKeowowCFR7ugAodXSsWXA

I rarely use a topcoat on my shellac finishes and have yet to have a problem. Additionally flakes that are stored correctly will last a long time (indefinitely?). I will admit that if I am doing a table I will use poly due to the fact that it is impervious to alcohol:drunken_s .

 

[Makinsawdust]

Dave,
These guys have already covered the other issues but as to the adding alcohol based dye question the answer is yes. I had a project a couple of years ago where I needed a redder red than the amber. I tryed mixing differ shellac colors and never could get it right. I tryed transtint dye and got the color in short order. It works well and gives you control of the final color. Personally I would go this route cause I it is easier than mixing shellac, dewaxing or even dewaxing Zinnzer's 3lb amber.
Rob

 

[DaveO]

Dave,

I use shellac flakes a lot. The difference between flakes and Zinser is startling. Mixed shellac is harder and therefore rubs out much nicer. Supposedly freshly mixed shellac will also be more moisture resistant. I finish all my pieces with a final coat of wax and will periodically reapply it. Which adds to its protection. It is possible to get dewaxed shellac in other forms than blonde. http://www.shellacshack.com/?gclid=CMqPkKeowowCFR7ugAodXSsWXA

I rarely use a topcoat on my shellac finishes and have yet to have a problem. Additionally flakes that are stored correctly will last a long time (indefinitely?). I will admit that if I am doing a table I will use poly due to the fact that it is impervious to alcohol:drunken_s .

Willie, the shellac is just for a little color, I plan to use some sort of varnish topcoat, 'cause I some times have a drinking problem....my drink gets knocked over and that's a problem :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dave

 

[4yanks]

I hear you. I have a similar problem .

 

[FredP]

Willie, the shellac is just for a little color, I plan to use some sort of varnish topcoat, 'cause I some times have a drinking problem....my drink gets knocked over and that's a problem :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dave

thats not a drinking problem dave. its alcohol abuse and will not be tolerated!:rolf:
fred p

 

[Rocker]

Dave,
I have some garnet shellac flakes if you still want them.
John (Rocker)