sawmill

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westisthebest

New User
Chad
Question for the sawyers. I am getting a sawmill tomorrow, not actually having to pay for it-guy I work with is, and was just looking for some helpful hints that I may run into. I have only seen a mill run a few times and don't know any of the ins and outs. I am going to woodmizer store tomorrow and they are giving us a 4 instructional class. Anything that we should be getting optional put on there? We are getting the hydraulic lt40. One big question I had, which I am sure will be answered, is how long if at all does lumber have to sit before it is cut up. Or can you just cut it up then let it dry? I live on a farm and was just going to start cutting some trees for my projects, but I didn't know if they could be cut right up then taken to the kiln. Thanks,
Chad
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I don't know anything about that mill but cutting fresh logs is best. the sap in the logs helps lubricate the blade and the wet dust falls strait to the ground so you aren't breathing it all day. some log yards actually soak the logs in a pond before sawing them. sticker the boards as you stack and let them dry. covering the stacks with tin or whatever is recommended and end sealing the logs or the boards cuts down on checking. hope this helps.:icon_thum
 

westisthebest

New User
Chad
Thanks for the responses. I just got this machine and it is awesome. Have never had this much fun playing with wood.
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scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Chad, an LT40 hydraulic is a GREAT sawmill! It is probably the single, best all-around band mill with the features needed most.

Jeff Mills operated one for years; perhaps he can chime in with some tips.

Re what to do with your boards, it depends on if you will be kiln drying them immediately or not. The common practice is to sticker them the same day that they are milled, else you may have some mold develop on the faces. It's best to use dry stickers (3/4" thick is the standard for kiln drying, 1" thick is common for air drying), most folks sticker "valuable" wood at 16" centers - or thereabouts, and "barn wood" at 24" centers. If you cover the top of your stickered wood stacks with something solid - such as roofing tin - it will minimize the cupping. If you can set your stickered piles inside a shed out of the sunlight, it will be even better.

If you're cutting a lot of pine, adding some pine-sol to the blade lubricant reservoir helps to minimize the sap build up on your blades.

Good luck and enjoy!

Scott
 

Kyle

New User
Kyle Edwards
Looks like fun.. Thats the mill I have had for 7 years, and you will like it. Remember sawing is 1/3 of the process! Have fun and be safe.

kyle
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Oh it's so nice to see a new mill (I can see Jack drooling allover himself)... I see shes cutting wavy... when I first started out that was a constant battle for me. Couple of things helped me over come the wavy cutting issue:

1) Add a little regular Joy dish washing soap to your water lube - Joy is some slick stuff...

2) Run the blade tensioner a little tighter than what WM recommends. With the blade guide all the way open "pluck" the blade it should sound close to a musical C note. Watch the gauge and tighten when it loosens up.

3) Slow the forward head speed down, the blade should sing a song as it cuts through the log and there should only be a slight drain on the motor in other words keep the motor RPM up there and don't try and run the head through the log too fast. Increase the forward speed a little bit as the boards get narrower, slow the speed down the more wider the boards are. Keep the blade singing... If you hear a "swish, swish sound" change the blade.

4) When you change species change the blade. Don't expect to cut a hickory log, then a maple, and expect anything decent from the maple. Cut all the same species then switch the blade when you start a new species.

5) Always saw clean logs, mud, rocks and debris will dull a blade in a hearbeat. Not to mention what a nail will do... When in doubt hose off the logs or peel the bark and use a metal detector before you place it on the sawmill.

6) WM may not like me for saying this (but I never really cared much what people think anyways) For hardwood use Monkfors blades or Lenox Woodmaster C blades. Buy them from Coleman Sawmill Supply in Orleans, IN, phone 812-865-4001. Coleman Sawmill Supply has great customer service and good prices.

7) For softwood (Pine/Poplar/Cedar...) use WM 10 degree blades.

8) Adjust the drive belt tension - oddly a loose drive belt will make a wavy cut.

9) when all else fails change the blade.

Running the sawmill was about 1/4 of the work for me, socializing, logging, stacking and stickering, repairs/maintance, delivering and bookkeeping made up the rest.

I really prefer quarter sawing over flat or book match sawing. Quatersawn lumber is generally a better quality product and preferred by most woodworkers.
 

westisthebest

New User
Chad
Thanks for all the tips. Since I am new to this all of those are new to me, even the simplest ones. I was having a problem with the waviness. I have tried what was recommended, but still wavy. I guess it is something you just have to learn as you get used to it. Thanks again.
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
It is better to let the lumber air dry in a stickered stack down to about 15% -17% before you put in the kiln. That is 6-12 months pending thickness of the lumber. mtcw

Jerry
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
I believe this may depend somewhat on the species of lumber. :eusa_thin I put cypress right off the sawmill into my solar kiln and in the summer it dries to 12% in about 45-60 days. Denser woods, like oak, take much longer to pull down, so air drying is probably a plus.

Definitely sticker the stacks and do it right. You won't regret it! :wsmile: Good luck!
 
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