You want to be very careful with sanding sealer. For example, you never want to use a lacquer based sanding sealer if you plan to use a oil based poly or any waterborne finish as your final coats. Poly and waterborne will not adhere to the stearates in lacquer sanding sealer. There are sanding sealers specifically made for certain types of finishes and you should use the correct type compatable with your final finish.
You can use the Minwax Sealcoat under anything but it creates a very thin film that does not do much in the way of filling the grain. Also, you don't want to apply too many applications of shellac or it can lead to cracking and crazing. Minwax makes an oil based, non-stearate sanding sealer which is OK to use.
Permit me a little rant.
It is my opinion that using a sanding sealer sacrifices quality for expediency. Sanding sealer is used simply because it contains lots of solids, is fast and easy to sand. It contains a zinc stearate soap that sands like a jewel. The lacquer based dries fast and finishers can get to that final sanding sooner. However, adding the stearate to the sealer coat provides a very weak base and the stearates cause the product to have little or no resistance to water or water vapor. While one could use the finest finish ever made as the final finish it will never be better than the base it is on.
Lacquer based sanding sealers are primarily used by high production furniture companies where time is money. They do not experience adhesion problems as they use lacquer finishes, not polyurethane varnishes.
Things get even worse with multiple coats of sanding sealer. Now you have a very soft finish underneath a hard surface. This will cause cracking and crazing when the surface is dinged.
If the intent is to level the surface of open pored wood, then a grain filler is the correct thing to use. It will quickly level the surface with minimal affect on the clarity of the grain.
Finally, there is no reason why you should have any variation on the woods you refer to. If wiping on, you should apply two coats and let it dry 24 hours. Then use 320 paper (220 is too course) and a sanding block to level the surface. Now you can apply 3-4 more coats without sanding between coats as long as you apply them shortly after the prior coat is tack free. At this point let it dry again for 24 hours, lightly sand with 320 on the sanding block and then apply a couple of coats of well stirred satin. You should end up with a nice finish that is consistant with each of the woods.