Sanding Dust - Walnut

Status
Not open for further replies.

owen299

Dan Bowen
User
Building a small end table out of walnut and need to get ready for a simple oil finish. What is the best (easiest) way to remove the very fine sanding dust from the wood pores (sanded to 220).
Any reccomendations on a low shine classic looking finish.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Use a tack cloth.

Or blow the pores out with clean compressed air.

re: finish - use a oil/varnish finish applied with a cloth, e.g. Formby's (satin) Tung Oil Finish, or mix your own from 1/3 tung oil or boiled linseed oil, 1/3 oil (satin) varnish, 1/3 mineral spirits.


-Mark
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
take it outside and blast it with your air compressor - Please wear some safety gear, walnut dust can be really nasty stuff.
 

wayne

New User
wayne
Use a tack cloth.

Or blow the pores out with clean compressed air.

re: finish - use a oil/varnish finish applied with a cloth, e.g. Formby's (satin) Tung Oil Finish, or mix your own from 1/3 tung oil or boiled linseed oil, 1/3 oil (satin) varnish, 1/3 mineral spirits.


-Mark[/QUOTE

I would add one more step in the following order

Blow off with compressed air
Wipe down with a fast drying thinner or reducer-this will remove any contaminants that could be in the compressed air and will evaporate quick enough to not raise any grain.
The tack cloth should be used just before applying the finish so as to pick up any airborne dust that settles on it after useing the air
 

cyclopentadiene

Update your profile with your name
User
I prefer to wipe down with mineral spirits, allow to dry and finish with satin waterlox (expensive but worth the cost). Generally, I will sand with 400 grit and wipe with mineral spirits between 1st and 2nd coat. I use liberon steel wool on the second coat, wipe with mineral spirits then add the third coat. When using waterlox, add a thick coat then buff until the wood is warm wiping off all of the excess. This leads to a smoother finish. After the finish is applied, I apply wax using a white scotch brite pad then buff with an automotive buffer (on flat surfaces) or on curved surfaces using a buffer on the drill. Usually 2-3 coats of a good wax. Do not use wax if you plan to have hot or cold items on the table as it may lead to rings that must be removed.

This finish works extremely well for cherry or oak that has been fumed with ammonia. The finished piece will have the appearance of a 100 year old piece.

I too am alergic to walnut dust. Also a clostraphobe su dust masks are annoying but I have to deal with it.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
What Mark said. In the absence of a tack cloth, a rag with mineral spirits works good too.
 

Kyle

New User
Kyle Edwards
Everyone is allergic to some degree as Walnut (any in the Juglans group) contain Juglone a toxic alleopathic compound related to quinone.

I recommend a face mask and a Neti pot to clean your sinus's effectively.. Works like a charm!
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Re: cleaning the dust: A shop vac with a brush attachment works to get the majority. The mineral spirit or DNA wipe is good for the remainder. You have to use a scrubbing action with the brush, tho. Micro-fiber cloths work well ONLY when going down the grain. If you reverse against the grain, it will tear little bits of the microfiber from the rag (DAMHIKT).

Go
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
I've been finishing walnut for 35 years. I just use my shop vac with a soft upholstery brush to remove any sanding dust. Wiping with a tack rag or with a rag dampened with mineral spirits does not always get the dust out of the deeper pores.

Oil/varnish mixtures work well with walnut that is not going to be abused. It makes for a very natural finish. However, in spite of it's name, Formby's Tung Oil Finish contains no tung oil. It's not even an oil/varnish. It's a standard thinned varnish and says so right on the can. Unfortunately or deliberately, the statement about it being "Tung Oil Finish" is in larger type than the true statement about it being a varnish.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
For all prefinishing dust removal I use a shop vac equipped with a HEPA filter cartridge and soft upholstery brush following with MS dampened cloth. A dry paintbrush helps when using the vac in nooks and crannys.:wsmile:
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Good catch Howard. I dashed that off w/o thinking about much: as you said, Formby's is just a wiping varnish (i.e. thinned varnish). Really any oil/varnish or wiping varnish would suffice. But I said Formby's because it is easy to use, readily available and imparts a slight amber tone, which can be a nice effect if the OP is using commercially steamed walnut.

To the OP - I should also have added: whatever you choose, make sure you test the finish on scrap before committing it to your finished piece.

-Mark
 

SGalley

New User
Scott W. Galley
Everyone is allergic to some degree as Walnut (any in the Juglans group) contain Juglone a toxic alleopathic compound related to quinone.

I recommend a face mask and a Neti pot to clean your sinus's effectively.. Works like a charm!

What does the dust do to other people that are allergic?
 

Kyle

New User
Kyle Edwards
What does the dust do to other people that are allergic?

Irritant woods include black locust, cocobolo, ebony, oleander, satinwood, sequoia, and yew.

Sensitzer woods include cypress, balsam fir, beech, birch, elm, greenheart, mahogany, maple, myrtle, redwood, sassafras, spruce, walnut, willow, western red cedar, and teak.

Walnut affects mostly eyes, skin and respiratory system. Hives, watery eyes and difficulty breathing.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Irritant woods include black locust, cocobolo, ebony, oleander, satinwood, sequoia, and yew.

Sensitzer woods include cypress, balsam fir, beech, birch, elm, greenheart, mahogany, maple, myrtle, redwood, sassafras, spruce, walnut, willow, western red cedar, and teak.

Walnut affects mostly eyes, skin and respiratory system. Hives, watery eyes and difficulty breathing.

For me I would like to add two more to the list of walnut - Difficulty concentrating and forgetting things (feeling spacey) which lasts 2 to 3 days after exposure. Walnut didn't used to affect me at all, then I started noticing most of the affects you listed. The more I worked with it the worse it got, till the last few times when it got so bad I had to stop milling walnut all together. I think I may have been over exposed :dontknow:
 

SGalley

New User
Scott W. Galley
For me I would like to add two more to the list of walnut - Difficulty concentrating and forgetting things (feeling spacey) which lasts 2 to 3 days after exposure. Walnut didn't used to affect me at all, then I started noticing most of the affects you listed. The more I worked with it the worse it got, till the last few times when it got so bad I had to stop milling walnut all together. I think I may have been over exposed :dontknow:

That explains my memory loss. I thought it was from getting close to my mid 40's. Thanks
 

Tom Rioux

New User
Tom
I wipe with a cloth and citrus solvent to clean dust but I don't worry about the fine hairs in the wood until the 2nd coat.
I used Bio Poly NT a super rich rubbing oil, on my walnut bench. Sanded between coats with 320, heated the oil a little bit to help penetrate. If you wanna go all out you can wet sand the oil into the wood with 320-600 which i did. Absolutely stunning finish. Let my kids pound the heck out of it for a year. Then a gave it a quick polish and put in the store for a year. Now my wife has it at the kitchen table and its still looking great. Amazing what real resin does.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top