Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

[Brogan]

Stringers and the frame are done.

I officially hate stringers.
I can imagine that doing two probably isn't so bad but getting 5 to be perfectly level, etc. was a pain (it needed 5 due to the span and the infamous code).

I did learn something else in the process - level the floor first and use that to rest the stringers on.

Zach, standard 5/4x1x6 is the default option but I'd like something a little less utilitarian.
I could go for SYP though and insulate the bottom riser where it touches the garage floor, to avoid any damp issues.

Thanks again for the input Henry - it has been invaluable.
I'm so glad you mentioned the landing - the steps wouldn't have been anywhere near as good without it.

 

[chris_goris]

Not to knit pick, but why didnt you make the stairs with just 3 risers?. Also, the stringers should be notched to sit on a horizontal ledger at the top.

 

[Brogan]

I looked at both options - standard stringer and flush stringer.

Notching is not required - this is no different to attaching a stringer to a double height ledger.

In hindsight, I would have gone with a standard stringer, but this is also a valid option.

 

[chris_goris]

I looked at both options - standard stringer and flush stringer.

Notching is not required - this is no different to attaching a stringer to a double height ledger.

In hindsight, I would have gone with a standard stringer, but this is also a valid option.

So, you build the landing strong enough to park the car on and leave the steps supported by the nails?

 

[Brogan]

I'm using stringer hangers which is what they're designed for.

It's far better than what the builder did which was a few nails toenailed in.

 

[chris_goris]

I'm using stringer hangers which is what they're designed for.

It's far better than what the builder did which was a few nails toenailed in.

Im just old school. I know stringer hangers are "designed" for this application, but truth be told, they are really "designed" to speed up building stairs that meet codes. Im certain the codes vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction on stair construction but Ill bet they dont get to that level of detail. Now codes are a tricky thing, people think they mean they are the best of the best when it comes to building. They are not. Codes are a minimum set of rules and standards to allow building safe structures. Personally, I wont build something where the fasteners are load bearing when it can be avoided, like in this case (stringer hangers). But again, Im just old school. I revert to my Audel's framing manuals published in the 1930's usually.

 

[Tom Queen]

Interesting post as to I am getting ready to redo my garage steps to a universal adapted handicap platform with steps and a ramp in garage. We had our garage built larger just for this not to code ramp. Planning to have the ramp set up to remove easily if we ever sell our home. That is not going to happen probably. This is our dream home we moved i back in April '17.

Tom

 

[Brogan]

Steps are almost done.

Made a few mistakes along the way but overall, I'm happy with how they turned out.


The only issue I have is how to deal with the tapering gap under the bottom riser - it's about an inch or so on the left tapering to nothing on the right.

If I had a table saw and a jointer, I'd rip two pieces and join them, but I don't, so I can't.

I could get a piece of 1" beading but that seems like a poor solution.

I may just have to leave it as a gap, which isn't ideal.

Then there's just baseboard and painting to do.

 

[Skymaster]

At this point make a tapered trim pc to cover gap. Ez to do, pick the dimension you want finished, add to that the width of the widest gap, place on floor on right, level it,pin place, make a block the thickness of the gap, place on floor, slide it across floor marking pc with pencil, pull it cut to line, wally scribed to floor

 

[Jeff]

Wow, that sure is a huge improvement! A small point, you may want to add a hand railing on each side for safety.

 

[Brogan]

Thanks Jeff, yes a hand rail is planned - it's required by code anyway

 

[Brogan]

Oh and to follow up on my original question, I didn't do them either of the two ways

I did them like this to get extra wide steps.

 

[zdorsch]

The steps loom great! Did you decide on a finish or will you cover them?

 

[Skymaster]

Graywolf, aren't we now by boca required to have an 11" tread?

 

[Brogan]

Zach, I think I'm just going to sand them to remove any marks, ink stamps, etc.

I picked out some decent boards so they look fairly good as is.

 

[Brogan]

I've just given everything a good sanding, first with 100 grit, then 150.

The boards look surprisingly good.

Would Danish Oil be a good finish for them?

 

[Henry W]

Paul
Remember these are stairs treads - to be walked on with feet that are just a few steps away from the wild outdoors. Feet may be wet and or muddy when using these stairs (unless you don't get rain, that funny white stuff, or have mud in your area ).

Whatever you do, don't make this surface too smooth, and definitely not slick.

If you insist on a finish, I would recommend use of those black non-slip strips for the top surface. Yes I am paranoid about slipping, especially on stairs.

 

[Lowlander]

Your project is looking great!

 

[Brogan]

The steps are done.
It's not exactly fine woodworking but they're made of wood and they work

I covered the gap caused by the sloping floor with a piece of 'stop moulding'.
It was a simpler option than trying to split two boards and I think I prefer it now anyway.

I tidied up the cinder block by capping it and put a little return on the end to cover the gap (that bottom miter could be better ...).

The best part is the landing (thanks again Henry) - they are so much more useful and it's far easier to get in and out of the house, especially with bags, etc.
No more potential broken ankles.

I'll get the baseboard and painting done this week hopefully.

Then it's on to the next project - the drop zone.

 

[Henry W]

Nicely done, (and nice to be done!)