Risers and treads - how do you do you prefer to do them?

[Brogan]

I dread to think Jeff.

Regardless, I know I'll do a better job than the contractors they use anyway - the quality of work is dreadful.

All of the wood I removed from the original steps (treads, spindles, handrail) was split due to them just firing 4" nails in with a high powered nail gun - I doubt they would have lasted a year.

 

[Brogan]

Stage 1 is almost complete - it took me longer to pick out some half decent wood than it did to build this

I still have to add some studs for the back ledger board for vertical support and then the joists but that's it as far as the 'landing' frame goes.

The stringer will be flush with the top of the landing, so it will effectively be another 11" wider.

I *may* have slightly over engineered it, but I had some spare scraps of wood so it didn't really cost anything to put some extra studs in.
I'd rather it was too strong than not strong enough, and as it's now full width, it's not unreasonable to expect three people to be stood on it at once.

 

[FredP]

over built but that's ok. I generally over build too. too much is way better than too little.:icon_thum

 

[Brogan]

It's a darn site sturdier than the thing I ripped out

 

[Brogan]

This is how the stringers were attached to the ledger.


Every spindle was split at the top, bottom, or both.


I doubt the steps would have lasted 6 months.

I would be embarrased to put out something as shoddy as this.

 

[bowman]

All these guys care about is the bottom dollar. The faster the job completes, the quicker they move on to the next job. If something needs warranty work, then they will come back and address it, if the customer calls to complain about the problem. No calls, no return visits.

 

[Henry W]

...If something needs warranty work, then they will come back and address it, if the customer calls to complain about the problem. No calls, no return visits....

I have a colleague who has been calling his builder for warranty work - for about 2 years now. Plenty of return visits, but few issues actually addressed.
My 60's built home looks better and better to me all the time - it has it's own issues, but at age 50 it is holding up quite well.

 

[Brogan]

Finished the frame last night (does anyone else like working after midnight?).

Just cut my very first stringer - not bad for a first attempt.

What made it more difficult than a regular set of stairs is the floor slopes away from the rear of the stringer, 1" in two directions.
So I had to custom fit the bottom edge of the stringer with a compound angle to ensure it is flush with the floor.

Four more stringers to go ...

 

[Wyatt Co.]

It's looking good but I have to question what in the world do you plan on carrying down those steps? Or what record weight holding person is going to be traveling up and down them?

I mean absolutely no disrespect of a project seemingly going well but I strongly feel you are waaaaaay over thinking what you're doing and underestimating simple design and structural integrity.

 

[Graywolf]

I sometimes work strange hours, just not as much anymore. What your dealing with as far as fitting your stringers to the floor is rather common. Especially in a garage. It looks like your doing a fine job. One thing for certain, it aint going anywhere.

 

[Brogan]

Bill, I know it's over engineered - I mentioned that in a previous post.

However, it didn't really cost me any extra, a few $ at most, so I'm fine with it.

I have essentially built it as a free standing structure which just happens to be screwed to the wall - I don't trust the house framing - I saw them building it.

 

[bowman]

:rotflm: ^^

 

[Gotcha6]

You have to keep in mind that most tract builders today don't use an engineering book, they use a code book, which is the minimum standard to which anything can be built. Having said that, most first time (and some second time) home buyers ask only a few questions:

1. How many square feet?
2. What are my mortgage payments?

It doesn't take Dick Tracy to figure out that with the aggressive building and buying going on today that builders can't afford to give you any extra nails or wood - in their minds...........

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Bill, I know it's over engineered - I mentioned that in a previous post.

However, it didn't really cost me any extra, a few $ at most, so I'm fine with it.

I have essentially built it as a free standing structure which just happens to be screwed to the wall - I don't trust the house framing - I saw them building it.

You build to fit your needs and desires. As I said, it's looking good.

It may very well the only standing structure in the event a tornado takes the rest of the house to Oz.

 

[Brogan]

In hindsight, I should have done the landing full width and the steps/stringers dropped down to the first step, rather than having them flush with the landing.

Doing it the way I have means the stringers are longer and therefore more work, and as I can only get a single stringer from an 8' 2x12, there's a lot of waste (I can't fit 12' boards in my car).

You live and learn.

 

[Brogan]

So ... I have 7 boxes of flint maple flooring in the attic (https://www.mohawkflooring.com/hardwood-search/Rockford Maple/Flint Maple).

I've been toying with the idea of using this for the stairs as it's just going to go unused.

I can't come up with a decent solution for the edge/nosing though.
I can buy nosing from HD but it's a costly option at $30 a step and it results in a horrible lip at the edge of the step which is both aesthetically displeasing and, I suspect, disconcerting in use (http://www.laminate-flooring-installed.com/cutting-stair-nose-molding.html).

I really just want something which will hide the cut edge of the laminate on both the riser and tread, preferably flush with it (bear in mind there is no overhang on the steps - it is a flush square edge).
So essentially a 3/8" quarter round beading.

Yes, yes, I know it's overkill for garage steps but as this is the main ingress/egress point of the house, I want to at least try and make it look like it's not the servants' entrance

 

[Henry W]

Paul:
I haven't checked out the details of the flooring, or nosing, except to find out this is laminate flooring. As this is a pseudo exterior set of steps, are you certain that laminate flooring is rough enough to provide grip? Smooth treads could be a slippery disaster with wet feet. If I were to do such an install, I would likely purchase and install and edge/nosing piece that was ridged or textured in order to provide a non-slip/grip surface (and maybe visual contrast).

 

[Brogan]

That's a good point Henry.

I also considered the ribbed metal nosings which one typically finds in exterior/commercial applications.

 

[zdorsch]

Paul,

Are you using SYP for the treads? If so, why not paint them or use a clear-coat poly meant for steps? Round over the front edge and finished!

 

[Henry W]

I also considered the ribbed metal nosings which one typically finds in exterior/commercial applications.

Paul - the only time I have used laminate on stairs was in an office setting (an older building), and that is exactly what I used. Maybe I am paranoid, but 'non-slip' is my rule for stair treads, inside or out.