Removing dental molding

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I need to cut off the dental molding in my dining room. I do not want to remove the full crown or replace it totally due to the damage it would do to the ceiling and walls. First, it does not fit the architecture and second, one side is full of kitchen grease as the previous owner did not have a decent exhaust fan and there is a pass-through behind the stove. The molding is too rough to clean. I did scrape the popcorn off that had picked up a grease film. At least no one painted it.

Anyway, not room for a router. Best I can figure is a multi-tool and then dress with a rebate plane. Any other ideas? Thought about an excuse for that little Milwaukee 3 inch trim saw but I think the oscillating tool will do just as we..

I don't know what moron designed this house, but they clearly had no idea on architectural styles and consistency. Part Colonial, part Victorian, part Craftsman. Awkward. I think they call it "nuvo-eclectic"
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
I do not envy the chore you are about to take on here. A multi-tool and a lot of patience is in order. Cutting away the dental mold on a one piece molding you may find there is not enough material behind that portion of the molding. So for me weighing the cost of time and materials, buying new molding some paint and additional sundry items may be cheaper than what you are planning. With that said if you don’t try you don’t know. Good luck and please share your results.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Depends on a lot Scott. If the dentil (sp?) is an attached piece and it is a matter of cutting nails (&paint) then a multitool might be great. But if the dentil is part of an integrated piece, then I think more cutting power would be needed and I would guess a saws-all and bending the blade would power through (don't know, but I always thought the dentil was a separate piece attached to the face). Less damage with osc-tool, but WAAAAY slower I think. I'd be inclined to test and see, but I expect the saws-all and surface repair to win out in terms of both speed and ease.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
It is a built up and from another piece I took down, the dental only nailed along the top so the teeth should fall off being held by paint. Planing/scraping/sanding will not be fun either.
 

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Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
It is a built up and from another piece I took down, the dental only nailed along the top so the teeth should fall off being held by paint. Planing/scraping/sanding will not be fun either.
Then you are in for an easier time. Just be patient and wear some ear buds.
 
Scott:

I'm not sure what your design vision is once the teeth have been removed. Perhaps you can save yourself a lot of tedious work by coming up with a molding that could be applied over the teeth, having a rabbet that would cover the teeth, without a lot of projection where the teeth are, and perhaps even covering the ogee edge on the backer.

Even just a rabbeted S4S piece that covers everything, and another small applied molding on top of that. Perhaps a rabbet leaving 1/8" of material to cover the teeth might not be so objectionable.

If you really want to knock off the teeth, perhaps a sharp chisel to whack each tooth. In the end, it might take less time than coming up with some way to use a power tool. Otherwise, you might be able to use a biscuit joiner, fence folded up, with the base riding on the bottom of the crown.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
Tone
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Going to work. I am going to add a cove for the transition so I only have to clean up half the face and the edge of the top.

In a perfect world, I would rip it all down and re-do the entire house with Craftsman style.
 

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Not sure, but scoring the molding where it connects to the ceiling and wall, removing/replacing it would seem to be almost as quick if not quicker. Removed, you may be able to saw off the dental molding on the table saw and reuse the crown. Guess I am really not a fan of overhead work, especially extended exacting work and would rather get it down where it's easier to work.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Chisel worked the quickest for rough removal. Shoulder plane next. Picked up shoe mounding as it will give a 1/16 reveal where it meets the flat. Cove might have been better but not easily available small enough.

Over-head work gets harder every year for sure.
 

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