Removable table legs

[mike_wood]

My sister wants me to make a table for her. It will be largest (likely 40"X96") one I have ever built and it needs to have removable legs. All I have ever done is M&T so I have zero experience. I have looked at various ideas on the web but would like to tap the knowledge of anyone who has experience doing this.

Also, the table top will be too big for me to put the final finish on by hand - likely poly - and I have no spray capability. In anticipation of this need I would like to know of anyone in the finishing business in the Raleigh area I can get to spray on the final finish. No idea how much this would cost but I really don't have a choice.

Any help is appreciated.

 

[KenOfCary]

I have seen table legs constructed this way. Excuse the rough drawing.



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| ......... |
| ..........|
| ..........|
| ........../
| ........./
----------/

You shape the leg somewhat like this where the slashes are a 45 degree angle. The skirt also has a 45 at each corner. A bolt then goes through the leg and through the 45 in the skirt and is fastened with a washer and nut. The leg is thus bolted to the skirt and the top rests upon the flat surface of the leg.

The skirt fits tight on the right side, bottom and 45 portion of the leg diagrammed above.

Usually the one's I've seen have a bolt that has screw threads into the leg and bolt threads sticking out for the nut.

Hope that's somewhat clear. If not ask questions and maybe I can clarify.


- Ken.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I've used table leg mounting plates many times to good effect. I tried to cut & paste a pic, but the site doesn't accommodate that anymore. Rockler has them and the ones that sit in an apron kerf really stay tight.

 

[KenOfCary]

I've used table leg mounting plates many times to good effect. I tried to cut & paste a pic, but the site doesn't accommodate that anymore. Rockler has them and the ones that sit in an apron kerf really stay tight.

Aye, this hardware from Rockler is similar to what I was trying to describe. The one I was describing was from an old Antique Table we used to have. This is a more modern application of the same principle.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21578

 

[bobby g]

I have built a few tables that needed to be shipped flat and the hardware that the guys have already mentioned is what I used too. Our daughter, who lives in NYC, has taken her table apart and moved it so many times that I think she must have installed wing nuts by now. :rotflm:

bobby g

 

[mike_wood]

Folks, thanks for the replies. I saw this hardware but wondered if it would hold the leg-apron connection tight enough. I kept thinking it would wobble.

Bob, how did you handle the reveal between the table leg & apron on the side you see. Since, I assume, the connector would hold the apron at a specific distance. Did you put a spacer on the inside of the apron at the leg to get the spacing the way you wanted it?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Not Bob, but I'll stick my nose in here.

Folks, thanks for the replies. I saw this hardware but wondered if it would hold the leg-apron connection tight enough. I kept thinking it would wobble.

Wing nuts or plastic knobs plus a lock washer will keep it tight and make disassembly easier.

Bob, how did you handle the reveal between the table leg & apron on the side you see. Since, I assume, the connector would hold the apron at a specific distance. Did you put a spacer on the inside of the apron at the leg to get the spacing the way you wanted it?

Set your legs on the upside down table top where you want them. Cut the aprons to the length needed to butt up against the leg tops. The instructions that come with the hardware tell you the kerf width and distance from the ends on the aprons. You can attach the aprons to the underside of the table top many ways. My favorite is pocket holes. Once the aprons are attached, then you draw the leg tight against two apron ends. Works every time!

 

[bobby g]

Like Joe said plus you can position the aprons to give you the reveal that you want. Pocket screws on the cross grain aprons may be a problem with wood movement. Maybe Joe has a way around the problem while still using pocket screws.

bobby g

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Mike, unless you're in a big hurry, hold off until next week when you come over to the shop. I'll show you some ideas I've used. I might even have some corner supports from an old table you can have. Not sure if I still have them.

Bill

 

[Joe Scharle]

Bob, I've pulled some 100 year old tables with pocket hole joinery and the only allowance those builders made was over-sized shank holes. I did the same when pocket holes was a 2 bit process on a drill press. But now with a Kreg jig, I simply back the screws out a turn on the two cross grain aprons, and that seems to work just fine.