Relative costs for dust collection ductwork

[Ralrick]

Has anyone been through the process to price out the various types of ductwork for dust collection. I have a pretty simple design (pic attached) for a garage shop with a connection to an Oneida Dust collection unit and then 2 drops with wyes for connecting to my various tools. The initial estimate with tax and shipping is over $3,000 using Nordfab ductwork. I'm wondering what the relative cost comparison would be for using PVC Sewer and Drain Pipe or spiral metal ductwork offered from Oneida.

Questions:
1. Any feed back comparison for plus and minus for the various types of ductwork?
2. Relative cost comparisons for the different types of ductwork? (My initial review on-line for the PVC was about $5-600 including the flexible hose components but I haven't had much luck finding a good source for some of the Wyes I have in my design)
3. Any recommended suppliers you suggest sourcing the ductwork from either in the Raleigh area or online?

 

[drw]

Rick, it has been a few years since I installed my DC ductwork, so I do not recall prices. That said, I do recall having issues with sourcing some of the components locally so I ended up ordering online from the Sheetmetal Kid

Sheet Metal HVAC Duct Fittings Ductwork Supplies wye branches, ceiling register boxes, dampers, elbows

Supplier of Galvanized sheet metal duct, hvac duct supplies, air conditioing ductwork, flex duct, round, dampers

thesheetmetalkid.com

I was pleased with the the products. Good luck!

 

[Mark Johnson]

Norfab is much , much more expensive. I used it because I knew I would be rearranging it a lot and moving a lot. Unless you know that is what is going to happen to you, go with something else.

 

[HMH]

I went w/ Spiral ducting for my setup, and while I like it - the heavier gauge pipe/ fittings can be a bit more difficult to work with, and in my experience the fittings were never truly "round", and the ductwork is not flexible in that regard. I shopped around a bit, but ultimately found local pipe to be the most cost effective option, once shipping was considered and got my fittings from blastgateco.

 

[Warren]

I used 6" plastic pipe from Agra Supply at least 15 years ago (cost then was about $1.00/foot. It is flared on one end so assembly was easy. At that time I used wye and elbows (plastic and sheet metal) from Home Depot. Used RTV to seal all joints. At the time, HD had 6" to 4" reducers. I recall Mike Pence recommending a source for 6" flex hose at a reasonable price.

Go to ClearVue site as that was where I got my advise, cyclone, and sources for filters and flex hoses. I believe it has new owners, but still a good source of info and cyclone.

I've heard pro/con for plastic pipe with respect to static problems. At the time, I used aluminum tape to provide a path to ground.
No static issues to date but can't say if that static debate was resolved .

One more thing: Use plumbing strapping to hang piping (100 ft with holes ~1" apart) instead of purchased hangers: cheaper and neat appearance.

 

[McRabbet]

I am a strong proponent of thin wall PVC pipe (Sewer and Drain, ASTM D-2729) that Warren described in his post. It is available in 6" diameter by 10 foot lengths and has a bell end for linking segments together. Lowes and some Home Depots has 6" Wyes, 45 degree elbows, slip couplings and end caps. Avoid the 90 degree elbows (best to use two 45's with a short 6-8" section of straight pipe) for corners like your #4 and #12 -- Wyes with a short straight and a 45 make ideal down drops. You do not show location of your cyclone but remember that wyes face toward the drops. Put a blast gate at the end of each drop and use a short segment of flexible duct to each machine port (stay at 6" as far as possible; I upgraded ports to 6" on my table saw and jointer). You can find good blast gates at ClearVue Cyclones, including ones that provide 4" connections.

Overall, PVC is much less expensive than any of the metal duct options and is easiest to work with. Because the joints fit tightly, there is no need to glue them (use clear silicone bathtub caulk on the outside of each joint) and if really required, add a 3/8" sheet metal screw to the joint. PVC is also very smooth inside, so it works with minimal drag and provides great flexibility for your layout.

 

[Craptastic]

I'm on Rob's side with the PVC pipe and what he describes is spot on.

I used PVC for my small shop up in WI and it worked great. The only drawback was static electricity, mainly in the wintertime. The colder the air the dryer the air and the more likely static will be generated and not dissipated. I solved that by laying a strip of foil tape lengthwise along the pipe for the main runs length (I found no need to do the drops from the blast gates). In the center of the main run I put a partially folded over ring around the pipe of the foil tape (so good foil to foil contact was made with the lengthwise piece) and the hanging strap was wrapped around the pipe over the tape and I even drove 3 very short self tappers through the strap to make sure there was good contact. Then the strap was bolted to building steel for the ground.

Might have been overkill but just a few shocks from brushing by that thing before I put the ground drain on it were enough to want to make it an afternoon's work of "That s**t ain't happening again."

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I have Norfab purchased at an online auction for very low cost. I love it but as stated, it is expensive. I needed a few more Y shaped pieces and blast gates but was able to fit them to the plastic fittings for those extra. This took a little creative metal work to get the connections but it works fine. I have not found any at a good enough price to go Norfab all the way.
The positive is no leaks or static to hold shavings in the pipe

 

[Douglas Robinson]

Try KB Duct in Greensboro, NC

 

[BSHuff]

PVC has pretty much doubled in last 2 years due to COVID/SupplyChain/etc. It used to be the cheap option, but I guess metal duct has gone up similar rates. I have been slowly accumulating parts to go to fixed pipe vs moving a hose. Most Lowes/HD used to cary the D-2729 pipe/fittings in 6" but most have stopped around here, they have plenty of 4" -it is often not in the same section as the sched-40 PVC Plumbing pipe, as it is usually used for landscape drains. -Also the fittings are not the same, the 2729 works with most dust hoses where the sch-40 does not and the sch40 is about 4X heavier than the 2729 pipe.

 

[Ralrick]

Thanks for the replies guys, I appreciate it. I did get another quote for the clamp together metal pipe from Blastgateco and have had an initial discussion with KB out of Greensboro. I have had very little success finding the components locally for the thin wall PVC D-2729 so although the PVC may be cheaper, I just can't find the components I would need to make it work for my shop. As for convenience, both Blastgateco and KB have been excellent to work with and very helpful in helping with the price quotes.

 

[Warren]

One suggestion: the web has diy sites for making blast gates using tempered 1/4 masonite and pine. Router with trammel will make 6" holes. I used those + some 4".

 

[McRabbet]

I have always been able to find the 6" D-2729 compatible PVC fittings at Lowes (they are usually marked SDR-35), but if you cannot find them there, they are carried by McMaster-Carr, including longer sweep 90 degree elbows. For 10' lengths of 6" D-2729 PVC pipe, check with Simmons Irrigation Supply on Kirkland Road in Raleigh (Phone: 919-833-5650). They may also carry fittings or can lead you to where you might find them.

 

[Tim Sherwood]

Nordfab is mainly a supplier of industrial installations. It's very heavy duty and the clamps work great. I've used mine for 15 years. In that time I've re-arranged the shop twice. I'm really glad I had a layout I could alter quickly. It's made in Thomasville NC.

 

[AllanD]

Most of my original system was from Nordfab which I picked up at their Thomasville location. Over the years I have added things and found some other companies with compatible components that were less expensive. I believe the last components came from Air Handling Systems (air hand.com) . There is a NC company in Kernersville named US-duct and a company called Carolina air systems in Lenoir but I have no experience with either.
On a related note, a few months ago I was shopping for some 8 inch DWV PVC pipe for a planter project and the best price I found was about $335 for a 20 ft. stick. I used something else! Whichever way you go it seems steel and PVC resin have both gone up.

 

[CAYUSEDRIVER]

I used 6" plastic pipe from Agra Supply at least 15 years ago (cost then was about $1.00/foot. It is flared on one end so assembly was easy. At that time I used wye and elbows (plastic and sheet metal) from Home Depot. Used RTV to seal all joints. At the time, HD had 6" to 4" reducers. I recall Mike Pence recommending a source for 6" flex hose at a reasonable price.

Go to ClearVue site as that was where I got my advise, cyclone, and sources for filters and flex hoses. I believe it has new owners, but still a good source of info and cyclone.

I've heard pro/con for plastic pipe with respect to static problems. At the time, I used aluminum tape to provide a path to ground.
No static issues to date but can't say if that static debate was resolved .

One more thing: Use plumbing strapping to hang piping (100 ft with holes ~1" apart) instead of purchased hangers: cheaper and neat appearance.

Mr. Warren I just joined this Forum yesterday. I have a couple questions for you specifically. I can't use PMs yet because I'm so new here. Could you possibly have time to PM me, please?

 

[Oka]

PVC Pipe is roughly 4-10 bucks depending where & how you buy.
4" spiral duct is roughly the same cost if you know where to buy.
Just depends on what you want or familiar with.

I attached a pipe schedule to show the difference between SCH 40 and DWV. The fittings really are not interchangeable, it can be done but takes more effort than its worth.
Either system will make you happy performancewise, if instralled correctly.

 

[McRabbet]

Just watched a YouTube video by Matt Cremona on his installation of his ClearVue Cyclone and Nordfab ductwork in his shop. It is a good video and carries the process from unboxing both the cyclone and ductwork, installation of everything, testing airflows, looking at efficiency and providing cost information. He spent about $7,000, with more than half of that in the metal ductwork. I spent less than $1,000 for 6" thin-wall Sewer and Drain pipe and fittings for my ClearVue Cyclone.

 

[Craptastic]

Just watched a YouTube video by Matt Cremona on his installation of his ClearVue Cyclone and Nordfab ductwork in his shop. It is a good video and carries the process from unboxing both the cyclone and ductwork, installation of everything, testing airflows, looking at efficiency and providing cost information. He spent about $7,000, with more than half of that in the metal ductwork. I spent less than $1,000 for 6" thin-wall Sewer and Drain pipe and fittings for my ClearVue Cyclone.

I'm willing to bet that Mr Cremona spent a hell of a lot less than that out of his own pocket.

*gets screen cap*
Yep