Rail and Stile

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J

jeff...

I'm looking to a good howto on raised panel rail and stile type doors. I got stuck will a bunch of 3 and 4" wide QSRO from the last lumber run, I was hoping I would :gar-Bi

I already have a good set of router bits to cut the profiles. It's it's been like 20 years since I made any and that was on a shaper. I totally forgot how to do it.

Thanks
 
DaveO

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Well a lot depends on the type of router bits you have. If you have reversible R/S bits the set-up is different from matched sets. Other than the specifics of your particular router bit set up some good tips are -
Route the end grain first, then the long grain to clean-up any tear out. Make sure that all your stock is milled to the same thickness. Do some trial runs with the bit to dial it in.

There are a lot of how-to articles on the web, but they are more related to a specific bit manufacture.
What are you using???

Dave:)
 
J

jeff...

It's this set - I ordered it a long time ago have not even opened the box yet.
http://www.freud-tools.com/fr97ograparo.html
freud-tools_2029_3871251


I also have a big router. It's a 3 1/4 HP Makita Model 3612BR, that I traded a guy a load of firewood for a few years ago. I really didn;t want it but he talked me into it. I mounted upside down in a shop made router table. I also have one of those slow down dial things mounted on the side of the table. The router is kind old school, but it's powerful.

I think I'm good to go - just need something to jog my memory.

Thanks
 
skysharks

skysharks

New User
John Macmaster
Come on by Jeff. We can knock them out:icon_thum. Oh yeah bring that router with you:eusa_danc, maybe you might forget and leave it here.:rotflm:
 
C

Charles M

New User
Charles
jeff... said:
It's this set - I ordered it a long time ago have not even opened the box yet.
http://www.freud-tools.com/fr97ograparo.html
freud-tools_2029_3871251


I also have a big router. It's a 3 1/4 HP Makita Model 3612BR, that I traded a guy a load of firewood for a few years ago. I really didn;t want it but he talked me into it. I mounted upside down in a shop made router table. I also have one of those slow down dial things mounted on the side of the table. The router is kind old school, but it's powerful.

I think I'm good to go - just need something to jog my memory.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Jeff,

The set that you have comes with a video CD and a poster that detail the door making process. If they were not included, email or PM me and I'll be happy to send them to you.
 
rhett

rhett

New User
rhett
I would like to throw in a few tips that you will not find in the basic how-tos.
1. Make a cut-off block that is the width of two stiles minus the grooves. This way you can set your cut-off fence to the desired width of the door, lay in the block and cut the rails without figuring out every door.
2. Rip rails and stiles 1/32 heavy
3. Cut stiles 1/16 long.
4. Now you can square up the doors after assembly by trimming the extra 1/32 off the outsides.

This was the protocol for making RP doors at a door manufacturing plant I worked at. Saves the headache and worry of trying to get an absolute square glue up. It also gives you that perfectly flush/straight cope and stick joint on top and bottom.
 
K

Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
One thing I did not see mentioned is the fact that R&S bits are made for a particular thickness of wood. I thought is was one size fits all for many years.

Charles M taught me if you have 3/4" stock you need R&S bits for 3/4" stock......

I never see this mentioned.
 
J

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I did our kitchen in oak raised panel doors for our last house. I've done a few in pine/mdf (painted) and pickled pine in our current house. It's been a few months but I will offer my 2 cents. (all mine were with a router, none with a shaper)

A sled for doing the end grain is not necessary but is nice to have. I made mine of plywood scraps and a hold-down clamp. Some sort of backer when you cope the ends is necessary, IMHO, especially with oak. Dave is right to suggest doing them first but the moulding cut will not remove all the chip out reliably. If you don't have or want to make a sled, you can use a square block of scrap behind the wood being cut. You need something there to stop chipout - it does not have to be elaborate. I've done it both ways. The sled keeps you from having to remember to move things together but you can get good results either way.

The panel raising bit you illustrate cuts the relief on the backside as part of the same operation. I have one like that too. It is very important to keep the wood flat to the table when you use these bits. Ordinarily, with a horizontal panel raiser, if the wood raises slightly you can just go over it again. With the relief cutter, you just made the tongue narrower than desired. If you are working with MDF, it isn't real hard to keep things tight to the table. With solid wood, sometimes it is not perfectly flat which complicates things a bit. Feather boards help with operator error but warped wood can still be a problem. Being extra careful with the glue-up of panels to keep them flat or keeping them within the range you can put through a jointer and planner is all I can suggest - I had some difficulty with this but ended up with doors we were happy with.

Single passes for the cope and stick bits and I usually use full speed. Panel raising is 3 or 4 passes for me definately at reduced speed. I use a separate speed control on an old Ryobi R-500 motor (13.3amp) and speed it up until the noise gets a bit scary and use that. I think I am at 10,000 rpm or less.

If you forget and stick before you cope the frame, make a backer piece to protect the moulded edge on the ends where the moulded edge will be cut at the end of the cut. Just cut a narrow scrap with the coping cutter so it will mate with the moulding.

Jim
 
J

jeff...

Sorry guys I lied, I once did have that freud set. I went to go look for it today and could not find it in my router table... Then I remembered a friend came by and asked to borrow some router bits a few months ago. I said sure they are out in the shop in side the router table. So I called him today and he did take my freud set but said he broke all the bits on some nail infested pine :frown3qg:. So he brought this new set by - anyone know where this set came from? It's new but don't look so good to be honest. :confused_

P101000432.JPG


Thanks
 
TN Woodie

TN Woodie

New User
John
Bad trade, unacceptable, IMO.:kamahlitu
If he doesn't make it right, borrowing privileges revoked forever.
 
FredP

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
I have the destructions for my jeseda set if that helps if you are around stop by and I'll make a copy. I have a few sets if you need to borrow some but dont even think about trading me for your NEW set!:rotflm: or we can do your stiles and rails here if ya like. I have plenty of free time lately:gar-Cr give a shout.
 
Canuck

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Hi Jeff,

As it turns out, I ended up making a raised panel door today using some of your favorite wood.....poplar.:gar-Bi

I kept my camera handy and here is play by play ....sort of, as to how I ended up.

As mentioned earlier it is really important that all stock is thicknessed to the same dimension ..3/4" in my case.

I started by routing the endgrain of the rails. I used a sled and placed a piece of scrap behind the work to minimize tearout. (The long piece hanging off of the sled is the scrap backerboard.)




Then it was on to the stiles. Changed to my rail bit. Just remember to make sure that you have the show face DOWN on the table! I ran all of the rails and stiles face down on the RT.




I then tried a test fit of a corner……



Looked pretty good. I didn’t draw the joint together with a clamp just yet. (Have learned that if you draw it together dry, you have to be really careful when separating for the glue-up, cause it may fracture!!!

Now. On to the raised panel. I mounted my raised panel bit it the router (bit from MLCS with a back cutter.) I set my router speed at about 14000RPM.




Starting with the endgrain of the panel I ran the edges for the 1st of four passes. I used a featherboard and push[ pads to make sure that the panel remained flat to the RT surface.





After each pass, I moved the fence back a tad and ran all four sides of the panel (again starting with the endgrain first.), until I was at full depth of the bit bearing to fence alignment.


Did a dry fit of the stiles, rails and the panel.



Glued up and clamped the door…



Door all done ‘cept for sanding and painting!!!:kamahlitu:kamahlitu




I must admit that I spent an inordinate amount of time tweaking the router bit height to get flush faces. That’s why it took me all afternoon to make just one door! At least that’s my story and I am sticking to it!!!!

Hope that this, in addition to other members responses helps ya out!

Good Luck

Wayne





 
Last edited:
J

jeff...

Wayne DON'T touch that set I'll be right over with a bunch of oak - ok? Dang those are nice man :thumbs_up
 
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