plywood edging

[Luckbox72]

This might be just a crazy idea, but I use plywood a lot, it’s stable, cheaper than hard wood and easier to fine in most cases. I have been using a lock miter bit which works great with grain but perpendicular to the grain it chips out like crazy. I and also interested in doing dovetails and other joints. I plan on getting the edge banding kit to put hardwood edges on the exposed plywood edges, mainly like the look better than a thin piece of veneer, although I have veneered a lot of plywood edges.
I was wonder if it makes any sense to put a hardwood edge on the plywood then cut the lock miter of dovetails or whatever in the hard wood, I would think with dovetails that would be the only choice if it was going to be exposed. Just wondering if his would be a waste of time. I am sure if the grain matched and you were to use a pre stain conditioner you would get a pretty good looking panel. Just wondering if I am way of base or if it is worth trying.

 

[eyekode]

My only concern would be strength of the joint. The panel would provide a huge lever arm that is trying to pry apart the edging. But maybe I misunderstood your suggestion. I thought you meant cutting thicker than veneer edging (like 1/4" +). But this doesn't jive with "edge banding kit" which to me means an easier way to apply veneer.

I like edging ply with hardwood but I don't try to hide it. I like to put contrasting woods as edging.

Salem

 

[cpowell]

I think you will be better off using solid stock for DTs. Edge banding/solid lamination on ply will have the grain running in the wrong direction for DTs. If you orient the solid stock grain so that it runs the same direction as the ply then your lamination will have an end grain glue joint, which will not be very strong.

If you are patient you can often get rough hardwood stock through this forum for less than furniture grade hardwood ply.

BTW I like the avatar...I grew up in Jax Beach and graduated from UF in 90 - BSEE. Go Gators!!! :gar-Bi :gar-Bi


Chuck

 

[dkeller_nc]

It's not unusual to see Norm on the New Yankee Workshop to make dovetails in birch or other high quality plywood for drawers. These are usually through dovetails with a false front of solid wood glued/screwed to the drawer box front.

Honestly, I don't see dovetails in plywood as really any stronger than a much simpler machine-produced joint like a lock miter or even a rabbet reinforced with screws. Because of the grain orientation of plywood (alternating), a rabbet glue joint is considerably stronger than it is in solid wood.

And I suppose this also depends on what you're making. If it's kitchen cabinets or utility shop drawers, I'd use plywood because it's relatively cheap and relatively sturdy. But my own personal choice would prevent me from ever considering putting plywood drawers in a piece of fine furniture - it just makes the piece look too much like the factory junk that's sold at rock-bottom prices in Rooms to Go.