Although I have not tried fabricating DWV fittings myself, this video provides detailed instructions for DIY fittings. This appears to be a good way to save a few $$$.
Piping in my HF Dust Collector
- Thread starter stal023
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I haven't watched the video yet but on the subject of making your own fittings last night I tried the method of heating the pvc slightly and then using a hose clamp to mold the pvc to the blast gate and was amazed at how tight of a fit it gives, so much better than screws and duct tape. Just thought I would pass it along.
A few comments-
Though not as heavy and thick-walled as Sched 40, the pipe the guy in the video is using is thick-walled SDR35 pipe (usually blue/green) . If he had used thin wall S&D (ASTM 2729) (gray or white) it would have been easier to heat and form.
Another way to do this that can be a bit easier if you are dealing with 6", which, due to its size, can be a bit harder to heat evenly and form, is to mount the dies to your lathe. Make a cradle or frame to hold your heat gun or torch (be careful not to burn the pipe if using a torch!). Turn the lathe by hand or run it at the slowest possible speed when heating the pipe. Once the pipe starts to get soft ("plastic") feed the tailstock (fitted with a live center) to force the pipe in to or over the die.
I heat formed fittings and used spare pipe bell ends for all my flex fittings. I make mine a bit longer than those made buy the guy in the video so they are easier to grab. Also, so I am not unnecessarily reducing the I.D. of the flex, I make the fittings a bit larger so the flex with fit inside.
(These old pics were taken 11 years ago- now all my homemade blast gates have been converted to pneumatic autogates and are located below the floor or behind a knee wall.)
Though not as heavy and thick-walled as Sched 40, the pipe the guy in the video is using is thick-walled SDR35 pipe (usually blue/green) . If he had used thin wall S&D (ASTM 2729) (gray or white) it would have been easier to heat and form.
Another way to do this that can be a bit easier if you are dealing with 6", which, due to its size, can be a bit harder to heat evenly and form, is to mount the dies to your lathe. Make a cradle or frame to hold your heat gun or torch (be careful not to burn the pipe if using a torch!). Turn the lathe by hand or run it at the slowest possible speed when heating the pipe. Once the pipe starts to get soft ("plastic") feed the tailstock (fitted with a live center) to force the pipe in to or over the die.
I heat formed fittings and used spare pipe bell ends for all my flex fittings. I make mine a bit longer than those made buy the guy in the video so they are easier to grab. Also, so I am not unnecessarily reducing the I.D. of the flex, I make the fittings a bit larger so the flex with fit inside.
(These old pics were taken 11 years ago- now all my homemade blast gates have been converted to pneumatic autogates and are located below the floor or behind a knee wall.)
Alan, what supplier do you use for pneumatic blast gates? Do they run on compressed air?
There are a couple posts on the forum from some years ago that describe what I did. First I built my own blast gates, then later converted them to autogates with the addition of pneumatic cylinders, solenoid air valves, and current sensor switches that I sourced mainly from Ebay.
Just my 2 cents here....yes I would definetly increase planer to 4".....Woodcraft carries a fitting that connects to PVC....and I like the shop made blast gates..they seem to stay much cleaner. Stal I put an adapter on my grizzly taking the 5" to ^' right at the machine and ran 6" line across the shop with 4" drops.
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