Opinion request, router in table saw

[John Reeves]

I think I want to mount a router in my table saw. I would appreciate advice and guidance in at least two subjects.
1) Which router;
a) Freud 2000E, a 3 1/4 hp 15 amp plunge router, 13 lbs but no height control from the top
b) Craftsmen 2 1/5 hp, 12 amp 9 lbs. comes with two bases and does have a heights control form the top.

Both are variable speed but you have access only at the router meaning I have to bend down and stick my hand under the table or pull the router up through the table.

Next issue is mounting it in the table saw. Should I put in a cast wing that replaces the existing wing? Should I put it in the side extension table? Should I use an aluminum plate? Does a cover box underneath help with noise and/or dust collection?

Is there a good fence that will attach to the Biesmiere fence?

All thoughts and constructive comments appreciated.

John

 

[Canuck]

John,

I purchased this router table extension for my Craftsman 22124 TS a little over a year ago and it has been great.



I am currently using a Dewalt 618 and the phenolic plate. I bought it from MLCS for about $180. The fence is pretty good - flat and a good height.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_table4.html

Dimension wise (23-1/2" x 27"), it simply bolted up to the Biesemeyer rails replacing the extension that came with my saw.

I have since received their aluminum plate and awaiting the delivery of a Milwaukee 5625 3 1/2HP router. (I can't comment on this combo just yet, but from what I have read and seen (Joe Scharle uses this combo.) I really have been impressed with its performance. This is a heavy router, so I opted for the heavier plate, hopefully to reduce sag.

Wayne

 

[DavidF]

I have the Freud 2000 in the right extension table of my Dewalt 746 and it is great, especially with the Wixey TS gauge. I would definately go with the aluminium plate. I bought the MLCS one and it works perfectly. I have just built a dust collector box that goes around the router and that is a big improvement, I can take pictures tonight if you want. I made an MDF high fence that clips on to the Dewalt fence and that also has dust extraction built in, again, I can take pics if you need them.

 

[John Reeves]

Thanks guys. Dave, pictures would be great if it is not too much trouble.

 

[BobN]

I have my router mounted in the right extension wing of my unisaw. The router table is from Woodhaven along with their fence. Their fence works good with the Beismeyer fence on my unisaw. I have a PC 7518 router along with a JessEm lift. This set up works great.

My shop is fairly small (16ft. x 26ft.), using this set up is a real space saver, not having to mess with a separate router table.

Bob

 

[DavidF]

Thanks guys. Dave, pictures would be great if it is not too much trouble.

No problem, I'll do that tonight

 

[Jon]

I have mine mounted in the Table saw and have dust collection around it and I use the Tablesaw fence to mount my router fence to. It all works really good for me.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Have at least one of your RTs on your TS for when you really need a big RT!

 

[DavidF]

Thanks guys. Dave, pictures would be great if it is not too much trouble.

Here they are: Dust collection is a clam shell design that has a simple latch on the front. The fence clips over the existing dw fence without tools or fixings.

Not sure why these thumbnails aren't expanding but here is a link to the gallery

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=211

 

[Bas]

The clamshell idea is brilliant!

 

[DavidF]

The clamshell idea is brilliant!

Why, thank you Sir! The latch on the front is made from a springy piece of Hardboard that "clicks" over the edge when the sides are closed. Serves the dual purpose of locking the door and sealing the join so that the suction is more effective. It can be easily opened with one hand as well.

 

[John Reeves]

David,

Thanks for the pics. They really help.

John

 

[JimD]

I use a PC 690 - mid sized older model - on my table saw extension table sometimes. I now have a dedicated router table so that is what I used the most. I like a router mounted on wood better because of noise/vibration. My extension table is 3/4 melamine particle board with plywood stiffeners and edging. I mounted a couple t-nuts into the extension table and have sloted holes on the sides of the fence for adjustment. Knobs with studs go through the slotted holes in the fence into the t-nuts. I thinned the particle board to 3/8 on the underside in the shape of the PC690 fixed base and then I just bolt the base to the table. I attach a box around the router with hanger bolts and wing nuts for dust collection. This setup works fine - but a dedicated table is better when you have the space (my table has a homemade lift too which helps). If I am moving back and forth on the router table between two setups, I sometimes set up the second router on the tablesaw to cut down on the setup. For a year or two, all I had was the extension table setup and I made several raised panel doors on the mid-sized router setup without difficulty. Raising the panel took and additional pass or two but it did it fine.

You do not need to buy an extension table and you do not need a plate - I see no purpose for them. Just my opinion but I've had 4 or 5 router table setups at this point and none have had a plate and all worked.

Jim