Cast around 1956 (Craftsman model 113.20680), I got this from a work friend of mine. Having been sitting in an unsealed garage for ten years (and under a bbq grill cover), the patina of rust was fairly thick. It needed some help. (Fyi, I've never done this before.)
(Disassembled the fence and sprayed WD40 in hope of loosening the blades.)
Beyond the rust, the belt had sat in place for a decade and the bearings in the spindle and the motor were dried up.
With new bearings on order off the net, I started stripping the rust with a removal disk and wire brush.
First run with a rust removal disk. Not bad so far.
Wire brush works great for the final layer.
Jointer came complete with requisite sawdust and an old mouse nest.
Rust removal goop worked wonders on the more intricate parts, but use in a ventilated area.
Final result. Roughly 50 bolts were replaced in the stand alone. Most of the generic screws and snap rings in the cutterhead assembly were replaced too. Almost all of the original unpainted mechanical parts were rusted so were stripped. Unfortunately, rust stripper removed the blueing that was there, so I reapplied it with some cold blue from Walmart. Not as good, but better than bare steel.
Bearings were fairly easy to apply, though you have to be careful getting them off and on. Each pair was about $9 shipped off Ebay.
The belt and one loose pulley were actually easily ordered from Sears Parts, and cheaper than I could have gotten elsewhere. $12 for both! The diagrams off the Sears website are also invaluable.
Added a shelf to stiffen up the base, and under the cutterhead added a dust port for a 4" outlet. The dc outlet works so good I might have to add inlet holes to keep the work from sticking to the table.
Right now it runs like a champ, though the blades donated by Eric at CubicDissection are still being sharpened. The old blades were donated to Bob Verne to be cut up for hollowing tool bits. :mrgreen:
Kerry
Vernewoodworks.com
Beyond the rust, the belt had sat in place for a decade and the bearings in the spindle and the motor were dried up.
With new bearings on order off the net, I started stripping the rust with a removal disk and wire brush.
First run with a rust removal disk. Not bad so far.
Wire brush works great for the final layer.
Jointer came complete with requisite sawdust and an old mouse nest.
Rust removal goop worked wonders on the more intricate parts, but use in a ventilated area.
Final result. Roughly 50 bolts were replaced in the stand alone. Most of the generic screws and snap rings in the cutterhead assembly were replaced too. Almost all of the original unpainted mechanical parts were rusted so were stripped. Unfortunately, rust stripper removed the blueing that was there, so I reapplied it with some cold blue from Walmart. Not as good, but better than bare steel.
Bearings were fairly easy to apply, though you have to be careful getting them off and on. Each pair was about $9 shipped off Ebay.
The belt and one loose pulley were actually easily ordered from Sears Parts, and cheaper than I could have gotten elsewhere. $12 for both! The diagrams off the Sears website are also invaluable.
Added a shelf to stiffen up the base, and under the cutterhead added a dust port for a 4" outlet. The dc outlet works so good I might have to add inlet holes to keep the work from sticking to the table.
Right now it runs like a champ, though the blades donated by Eric at CubicDissection are still being sharpened. The old blades were donated to Bob Verne to be cut up for hollowing tool bits. :mrgreen:
Kerry
Vernewoodworks.com
