new tenon jig

[merrill77]

After switching saws (and fences), I needed a new tenon jig. The last one wasn't too great, anyway, so I took a queue from a recent Shop Notes and built one very similar to theirs (issue 101?). Having recently acquired a lifetime supply of extra-thick MDF and some UHMW, I decided to make use of those. As you can see, it is a bit oversized for tenons - I made it large enough to also use for raising panels.

I used 1 3/8" MDF for the main body as well as the outrigger. I was concerned all the extra weight would make it cumbersome to use, but those concerns were unfounded. It _is_ very heavy, but I waxed the inside faces and put UHMW sliders on the bottom and it glides pretty well. The extra heft certainly has made it feel very sturdy and accurate.

I used it to plow a 2" deep groove (dado?) in the end of a table leg for a lap joint using my shiny new 8" dado - I had to go slowly, but the result was perfect.

Great way to spend a vacation day :>

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

very nice I am going to have to make me one of those also.... yours looks great nice job

 

[eyekode]

I made one like this a couple years ago. It was ok but didn't have the piston-like motion I was looking for. This year I made a tenon jig that rides on my cross-cut sled. I like this one much better. The only negative is that the cross cut sled removes ~3/4" of tenon height and I have needed it before... although in those instances my bandsaw works fine.

My new one looks almost exactly like this one:

And it rides on the same sled: http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx

Good luck!
Salem

 

[merrill77]

Interesting. The ShopNotes sled is adjustable for different fence widths. I almost didn't do that, since I only have one fence, but decided to include that feature rather than permanently attaching the outrigger. As a result, I've been able to get a perfect fit. I was quite happy to get a perfectly smooth movement with virtually no wiggle. My last jig was thrown together in 20 minutes and the result was pretty poor...so this is a huge upgrade for me.

I plan to do a splined miter jig soon - and was considering attaching it to the tenon sled, but it might work better on my crosscut sled.

I made one like this a couple years ago. It was ok but didn't have the piston-like motion I was looking for. This year I made a tenon jig that rides on my cross-cut sled. I like this one much better. The only negative is that the cross cut sled removes ~3/4" of tenon height and I have needed it before... although in those instances my bandsaw works fine.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I like that style too. Been using one or another since the 70s even though I did buy one of the cast iron things in the 80s, I don't really like it. I also use my latest for spline slots in box corners. Yours is certainly substantial enough for many purposes and you may want incorporate this add-on for yours.

Actually, I can't find a pic, but you can envision what I'm talking about, I'm sure.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Wow! 1 3/8" MDF. That sucker ought to be heavy enough to give a good smooth cut and last a lifetime. :icon_thum

Bill

 

[merrill77]

Wow! 1 3/8" MDF. That sucker ought to be heavy enough to give a good smooth cut and last a lifetime. :icon_thum

Yeah, it is pretty beefy stuff :>

If anyone wants some, I have about 30 pieces of various sizes, mostly in the range of 10-15" wide and 18-48" long. I've got more than I'll ever use.

 

[McRabbet]

Chris,

I see that your jig is one that straddles the fence and relies on it moving smoothly to achieve a clean cut. I built a similar jig a few years ago from 3/4" MDF and some strips of white oak that slides in my right miter slot and against the fence. I was inspired by an article on raised panels in Wood Magazine to design this one and it has served me very well. Here are some pics: 1) Here is the jig shown making a raised panel door
22" tall -- caul holds any piece up to 30" wide or tall -- and the stop can be replaced;

View image in gallery​

2) Here is the back side -- base is 12" wide so a simple offset allows on to set the cut against the fence. The knobs allow adjustment of the miter runned to insure the straigh-line movement parallel to the blade and fence.

View image in gallery​

3) Here is another view of the front side set up for a back cut for the door panel.

View image in gallery​

 

[eyekode]

Well my first jig was thrown together in a couple minutes too so maybe that was most of my problem
Salem

 

[merrill77]

I see that your jig is one that straddles the fence and relies on it moving smoothly to achieve a clean cut. I built a similar jig a few years ago from 3/4" MDF and some strips of white oak that slides in my right miter slot and against the fence.

Yes, it does. The movement is very smooth. Smoother than I expected. The adjustable nature of the design helped to get a perfect fit. I waxed the inside faces that slide along the fence and I assume the HDPE runners are helping, too. I like the fact that I can use the fence to make adjustments...it would be even better if I had a micro-adjust addition on my fence.

I debated making one long enough for doors like yours. When I have a need for that, I think I'll try adding a larger face to mine to see if that works. Depending on the size of the door, my carriage may not be long enough to stay on the table, though

 

[CDPeters]

This is going on the list as the first thing to make when the new G1023 TS arrives.

Thanks for posting your designs Chris & Rob! :icon_thum

 

[merrill77]

This is going on the list as the first thing to make when the new G1023 TS arrives.

Thanks for posting your designs Chris & Rob! :icon_thum

I use my crosscut sled far more often, so if you don't already have one, I'd suggest starting with that. Whatever you do, don't forget to post some pics!