New fence for table saw

[Cato]

I ordered a Delta T2 fence to replace the OEM fence that came with my R4511 table saw.

The original fence has gotten me by, but it has never been totally satisfactory because of the split rail design that tends to flex whenever the fence is locked down across the split rails. Just a bad design because of the weak point.

The T2 rails, fence, and tube seem solid as a rock and should be a welcome addition once I can get them mounted.

It looks like I'll have to drill some holes in the T2 front and rear rail as only two out of the 4 holes line up, and if I used those the tube scale would have to be replaced. If I can I'm going to try and drill the holes so that the tube will fall in the same place as the original.

If that doesn't work out then I'll have to get a replacement tape. Haven't used the drill press in a while, so time to re hone those machinist skills.

 

[ptt49er]

I was able to get one of the R4511's when they were on clearance and totally agree with you on the fence. My solution was to get a longer rail to use across the front.

I don't think the T2 is going to work without adding some spacers between the support angle and square tubing. It seems like I tried to line it my T2 off of my old saw on my R4511 and the table top of the R4511 was just thick enough that nothing wanted to line it. It must have looked too much like work because I didn't spend much time trying to find a way around it.

Good luck!

 

[Cato]

Hey Phil,

Yeah I might indeed have to put some shims between rail and tube.

On Ridgid forum of the three members that have done this, one used his OEM rail and drilled and tapped the new tube and shimmed with some oak shims he planed to height.

The other two drilled the T2 front and rear rails just a tad higher to make it work.

So just have to see what my adventure brings to the mix. Hope it works.

 

[BrianBDH]

I added a Delta T2 fence to my very old Delta direct drive saw.

The rear rail wasn't too hard, maybe 2 holes lined up. Not too hard to drill a couple more.

The front rail was much harder. Again, only about 2 holes lined up, so had to drill some more. This is tricky because the hardware is metric flathead cap screws. If your hole of off just a little, they don't seat properly and interfere with the fence.

After installing the front rail, I found that the tube sat too high and the fence (even after adjusting it all the way down) had a 1/4 gap under the end. Lucky I work in a steel fabrication shop. I got a piece of 2.5 x 2.5 angle which did two nice things. First, it allowed me to use hex head cap screws without interfering with the fence. Second I didn't have to countersink the rail holes. This allowed some adjustment in the mounting. Third it lowered the tube so the fence can sit flush on the table.

I am very happy with the way it worked out, although it took some work and patience. Since then I have added the router table insert between the rails.

Hope this helps.

Brian

 

[Cato]

Brian,
I should have mentioned that the two guys with R4511's like mine clamped their OEM rail to the T2 rail and used those holes as a drill guide once they determined where they wanted to position the rail for alignment.

Apparently the OEM rail is much deeper than the T2 so you can clamp it from the front so that the T2 rail is nested in the OEM rail.

I can see that I am in for a lot of dry fitting and positioning before I get to the point of firing up the drill press. Sawhorses, clamps, rulers, levels, are coming out and I hope this will not be one of those hair pulling experiences.

I'll post pics or tears of frustration once I get further along.