Need suggestions for a table top

[b4man]

I have a large oval table base that has a glass top that I' really don't want to keep cleaning all the time. So, I would really love to have a granite, marble or composite top made but I think the expense will be prohibitive. Or make a wood top myself. In any case what thickness is minimal? The top measures 42" x 72". I want to keep the oval shape.
What wood would be best? Plywood veneered? Solid? I need some help!:eusa_thin

 

[McRabbet]

Barbara,

A granite or marble top would be very expensive as you've suggested, but you need to provide more detail -- you said it has an oval base,; is the top oval too? How much overhang does the glass top have now? You said it has "a glass top that I really don't want to keep cleaning it all the time." What is the table used for and what gets the glass dirty? And, most important, what color or style of wood would you want? If the table gets lots of use, you need a durable, water-resistant finish and laminate may be the preferred solution. If wood or laminate, I would recommend a thickness of no less than 1-1/2 inches. If you do it in solid wood over a plywood or MDF substrate, you'll need to be careful to allow for expansion in the cross-grain direction. The key to a solid top is good grain matching and well-joined boards. I've used Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop Varnish on two different tables (one was a veneer top and the other solid wood over a plywood substrate) and found it is very durable and beautiful finish. You should be able to make a nice table top from plywood and 4/4 solid wood for under $200.

HTH - Rob

 

[walnutjerry]

I have a large oval table base that has a glass top that I' really don't want to keep cleaning all the time. So, I would really love to have a granite, marble or composite top made but I think the expense will be prohibitive. Or make a wood top myself. In any case what thickness is minimal? The top measures 42" x 72". I want to keep the oval shape.
What wood would be best? Plywood veneered? Solid? I need some help!:eusa_thin

Barbara------My opinion is use solid wood, 15/16-----1 1/8 thick. KD-FAS stock is usually pretty stable. If you really do not have a preference to specie, use a wood that has the least amount of shrinkage according to wood properties data charts available. The glass top can be used for the shape pattern.

I still like the oils and urethane/varnish mixture as a finish. Easy to apply and easy to repair scratches.

Just my .02 worth

Jerry

5/4 rough stock will yiekd the thickness mentioned above. If everything else fails, do what pleases your eye.

 

[b4man]

Rob,
Thanks for the reply. The top is 42x72 oval shape. It's the dining room table we eat on every day. The over hang is about 14" on each side and 18" on the ends. The only wood I would not care to use is oak. I hadn't considered using plywood and solid together. I just don't want to raise the table too much.

Jerry, you had a good suggestion regarding using the top as a template. I may have never thought of that

 

[McRabbet]

With the small amount of overhang you mention, I'd go with a solid wood top as Jerry suggests and it can be at his suggested thickness. You should make a trip to Steve Wall Lumber with some cash in hand any buy some Jatoba (Brazillian Cherry) at $3.8/BF or even Genuine Mahogany at around $5/BF.

My added .02 Rob

 

[walnutjerry]

Rob,
. The only wood I would not care to use is oak.

Barbara--------You may ask yourself a few questions. What will blend with the rest of the room? Do you like light or dark wood? Looks or durability?(both of those would be best). Stained or natural finish?

I am partial to natural finishes--------cherry, walnut, maple are all good woods for a table top. Walnut is probably the softest of those three. If you like a lot of figure, birds eye maple, or curly cherry, or burly walnut.

Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder!! You are talking about 24 square feet or about 30 board feet of 5/4 lumber. You should be able to get pretty much what you want in domestic hardwood for under 200.00. Exotics are another story and I do not use much in that line of lumber so I can not help in that area.

Good luck to ya!! I know you will come up with a good solution.:icon_thum

Jerry

 

[b4man]

You both have given me great advice and a place to start. Next question is how wide would you go with the stock? I've read the wider the board the less stable. Maybe this project isn't big enough to matter?

 

[walnutjerry]

You both have given me great advice and a place to start. Next question is how wide would you go with the stock? I've read the wider the board the less stable. Maybe this project isn't big enough to matter?

Barbara-------I like to keep the width to 6" or less. It also depends on the specie of wood and how it was sawn. Some say not to use anything over 4" wide. Flat sawn gives you more grain pattern usually, but the wider it is the more cup you are likely to have.

Quarter sawn is supposed to have the least cupping & warping but the shrinkage from green to dry is greater. Quarter sawn is not as readily available and is more expensive.

With KD material and the controled enviroment in your home, you may be overly concerned with movement. Do not discard the fact that wood moves with change in humidity, make allowances for that movement when attaching the top to the frame even though it may be slight.

It depends on whose book you read:lol: .

Jerry

 

[McRabbet]

Barbara-------I like to keep the width to 6" or less. It also depends on the specie of wood and how it was sawn. Some say not to use anything over 4" wide. Flat sawn gives you more grain pattern usually, but the wider it is the more cup you are likely to have.

Quarter sawn is supposed to have the least cupping & warping but the shrinkage from green to dry is greater. Quarter sawn is not as readily available and is more expensive.

With KD material and the controled enviroment in your home, you may be overly concerned with movement. Do not discard the fact that wood moves with change in humidity, make allowances for that movement when attaching the top to the frame even though it may be slight.

It depends on whose book you read:lol: .

Jerry

100% agreement from me! I generally do my panel glue-ups in the 4-5" width range and very seldom try greater than 6" widths. I try to avoid flat sawn planks (especially those with tree rings nearly parallel to the surface0 whenever possible; battens underneath may help strengthen the overall top, but won't stop cupping if it occurs.

Rob

 

[dozer]

If you really want to go with marble or granite you could always make the top out of wood then do a faux finish on it to resemble marble or granite. You can cover the faux finish with 2 or 3 coats of poly to make it last. I have done this in the past and it looks really good when it is all done. just my 1 1/2 cents

 

[jmauldin]

Have you thought of a "chopping block" top? You an buy them and then cut to size. I'm not sure how "formal" your dining room is but that is a thought that just crossed my mind.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[NCPete]

Or you could make one yourself

have fun, add some color, do like DaveO does and make a 'landscape' in the top. your table does not have to be normal

 

[cskipper]

I think making it unusual as well as unique would be excellent. How you do that - by patterns and/or choice of wood/stone/? will depend on the style of your room and if you care if it matches the current style of the room. Think outside of the box and you can come up with all kinds of possibilities. Imagine DaveO's cutting boards, solid outside borders with fancier inside piece, inlay... Have a ball with it!

 

[Kyle]

or how about a big ole slab

 

[Gofor]

I think making it unusual as well as unique would be excellent. How you do that - by patterns and/or choice of wood/stone/? will depend on the style of your room and if you care if it matches the current style of the room. Think outside of the box and you can come up with all kinds of possibilities. Imagine DaveO's cutting boards, solid outside borders with fancier inside piece, inlay... Have a ball with it!

I have seen some very attractive and functional tables made using a solid-plywood-based top, ceramic/stone tile design on top with a hardwood border. Just think, with ceramic you don't have to worry about hotplates! If you use a marble, you may need to worry about staining. The hardest part would be shaping the ellipses on the edge on the outermost tiles.

Just a thought

Go

 

[b4man]

First, I wrote a reply yesterday morning and it went by the way of who knows where. Sometimes my post just go away8-O
I really like everyone's ideas. The only suggestion I can't follow is Jim's and that's because I don't want the thickness of this top to exceed 1 1/4 inches. Kyle, a big ole slab would just be great!!Can you resaw it to the preferred thickness?:lol: :lol: :lol: Yeah well, too bad!
The word "fun" Cathy wrote really appeals to me. The first thing I have to do is clear off a space to work on a project this size. That's gonna be today and tomorrow. Then I'll sketch a preliminary design for more help here. Thanks again everyone and keep the juices flowing.