I am looking for some advice on routing raised panels. I just picked up my first raised panel bit and I have to admit, I am a little intimidated after trying a piece of scrap. I routed across the end of a board and it did not feel safe. I then tried to make several passes raising the bit a little each time but there is a built-in back cutter attachment and it looks like that approach defeats the purpose of the back cutter. Should I remove the back cutter and add it just before the final pass or keep the bit at the finished height and move the fence back a little with each pass? What is the right way to do this safely, especially across the ends? I guess I will have the same issue with the stile and rail bits. I've never used bits this large and I do not feel safe. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Need Advice for Routing Raied Door Panels
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First thing is make sure you're not spinning the bit too fast! You'll have to check your router's manual to determine the safe speeds for big bits like that, but generally SLOW DOWN! Also, rout the two end grain sides first, then the two long-grain sides. This will help minimize the tearout on your end-grain passes.
Sorry, I see what you're asking now... obviously you've figured out that you can't change the cutter height. You have basically 2 choices if you're having trouble. One thing you could do is use a vertical sled on the table saw to cut away a good portion of the profile first, then go to the router table to clean up and finish the profile in one pass. Another choice is to change the bearing on your bit to a larger bearing for the first pass, then go to the smaller bearing the bit came with for the final pass.
That's all the ideas I have... good luck, and post pics of what you're making!
That's all the ideas I have... good luck, and post pics of what you're making!
Good advise from both Insom and Dave O. One thing I also do is to make my second to last cut just shy of the full depth (bearing) so the final pass is a very light cut. With a smaller router it usually takes 4-5 passes depending on the wood. With my big router, 3-4 passes.
If you're not making a production run you can get by with incrementing the fence toward the bearing and taking 3-5 small cuts. But you will need to make a setup cut on scrap. I use sugar pine(shelving), to make sure my bit height is correct. Incidentally, when I get a bit setup, I cutoff a piece of the profile, drill a 1/2" hole in it, and plug the bit in it. Next time, I can use it as a setup block for that bit.
This pic shows a push sled made from scrap and I use a push block all the time. Door rails (end cuts) need plenty of angular support and tear-out backing.
Joe
This pic shows a push sled made from scrap and I use a push block all the time. Door rails (end cuts) need plenty of angular support and tear-out backing.
Joe
you could set your fence at it's final location with the bearing even with the fence face, then put clamps hehind the fence to mark it's location. then you can bring the fence up past the bit, and make passes while moving it backwards in small increments until the clamps stop you at your final position.
Another suggestion would be to use a featherboard to apply consistent downward pressure to ensure your corners come out properly. I don't worry about tearout on raised panels because it cleans up when you make the long grain cuts. You definitely want to use a backer for your end cuts on the rails. I'll upload a picture of the sled I made for those tonight when I get home.
I just finished a complete set of kitchen cabinets and bathroom vanities all with raised panel doors. All of the above tips apply. I didn't try removing part of the waste on the TS, probably because I didn't think about it.:BangHead: Even though I was making 3-5 passes I still burned up a DW621 2 1/4 rounter after about a dozen doors. :BangHead: But that gave me reason to but a 3 1/4 HP Freud FT200EP:mrgreen: :mrgreen: with no complaints from the LOML. I guess she wanted the cabinets completed.:mrgreen: Good luck.
Mark,
Great suggestions so far. Here's a couple more: Make your fence as close to zero clearance as possible so the panel can't dip into the cutter. With Freud bits you can remove the backcutter and lower the bit for the first pass(es) then when you get to final height add the back cutter for the last pass. This is the best method for arched panels. For rectangular panels just use the fence to limit the cut.
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Great suggestions so far. Here's a couple more: Make your fence as close to zero clearance as possible so the panel can't dip into the cutter. With Freud bits you can remove the backcutter and lower the bit for the first pass(es) then when you get to final height add the back cutter for the last pass. This is the best method for arched panels. For rectangular panels just use the fence to limit the cut.
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.
Thank you for your replies. I think I'll work with the fence as recommended and will try again soon. I had to vacuum my shop so I can finish two pending projects. (It's the only way to justify more tools) Once complete, I can let the sawdust fly again and practice with the raised panels. Thanks again.
You can also simply raise the bit to to incremental passes. I always disassemble panel raisers with the back cutter attached so I can do this primarily because my jobs always include arched panels.
At least that was how I used to do it. I do things a little differently today....
At least that was how I used to do it. I do things a little differently today....
YOU SUCK SUCK SUCK SUCK!!! I have yet to break down and buy a shaper and you show off your 3 head shaper. 
BTW, is that thing 3 phase or single phase?
BTW, is that thing 3 phase or single phase?
It is 3 phase. Each spindle is powered by its own 5HP motor. Here is part of my rotary phase converter that powers it. The ilder sits on the floor behind the compressor. I bought a 10 HP one so I can power multiple tools. I also have a 1 HP power feeder for the shaper, but don't have it cleaned up yet.:icon_thumTravis Porter said:YOU SUCK SUCK SUCK SUCK!!! I have yet to break down and buy a shaper and you show off your 3 head shaper.
BTW, is that thing 3 phase or single phase?
John
NCPete said:
HEHEHEHEHEHEHE! Couldn't help sneaking that one in. :slap:
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