Murphy Bed Construction

[Rick_B]

We are updating a small spare bedroom - we want it to be multi purpose (office, treadmill, puzzle room) but also needs to occasionally function as a bedroom. We have a queen size bed in there now but have decided to replace it with a queen size murphy bed. Here's the thread Old Woodworking Machines - Login that discusses the hardware selection. Hardware will be here tomorrow so I won't have the actual plans/instructions/parts list until then.

I have watched a video the company supplies that uses veneered plywood for the construction of the cabinet. I was thinking of maybe substituting hardwood but have some concerns about flatness - especially with the fairy large front panels. I suspect the plans are using full sheets and using a cut sheet that fully utilizes the sheet. Right now I'm thinking I'm going to use the plywood but am open to hardwood. My concerns are handling full sheet of plywood and expense although I likely don't have enough hardwood to complete the project.

So assuming I'll use plywood (unless a case can be made for harwood glued up panels) what would I be looking for. This will end up with a painted finish. Can I consider typical big box plywood or do I need to use something from a hardwood dealer - like a cabinet grade plywoo?

Second question (for now) - the plans call for edge banding (the iron on stuff) I'm wondering if I need to do that with a painted finish. Another option would be applying small hardwood edging?

Thoughts?

Thanks
Rick

 

[tri4sale]

We are updating a small spare bedroom - we want it to be multi purpose (office, treadmill, puzzle room) but also needs to occasionally function as a bedroom. We have a queen size bed in there now but have decided to replace it with a queen size murphy bed. Here's the thread Old Woodworking Machines - Login that discusses the hardware selection. Hardware will be here tomorrow so I won't have the actual plans/instructions/parts list until then.

I have watched a video the company supplies that uses veneered plywood for the construction of the cabinet. I was thinking of maybe substituting hardwood but have some concerns about flatness - especially with the fairy large front panels. I suspect the plans are using full sheets and using a cut sheet that fully utilizes the sheet. Right now I'm thinking I'm going to use the plywood but am open to hardwood. My concerns are handling full sheet of plywood and expense although I likely don't have enough hardwood to complete the project.

So assuming I'll use plywood (unless a case can be made for harwood glued up panels) what would I be looking for. This will end up with a painted finish. Can I consider typical big box plywood or do I need to use something from a hardwood dealer - like a cabinet grade plywoo?

Second question (for now) - the plans call for edge banding (the iron on stuff) I'm wondering if I need to do that with a painted finish. Another option would be applying small hardwood edging?

Thoughts?

Thanks
Rick

Rick - when I built mine, the specifically stated to not use hardwoods but use plywood for construction due to strength differences. You can use the hardwood from big box stores, that's what I used and it's held up for over a decade, even thru a recent move. Just make sure you get boards that aren't too warped

 

[robliles]

Rick, I used cabinet grade birch plywood from the Hardwood Store to build mine which, like yours, was painted. For edge banding, I uses iron on in very limited places and in places where visibility was more prominent I glued on "screen bead". One thing to understand about screen bead, it is about 3/16" thick so some dimensions might have to be adjusted accordingly. For me, the screen bead gave a more "clean" look and finish.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

The primary purpose of using hardwoods when making furniture is to show the grain and character of the wood. Since you're going to paint the piece, plywood will do just fine. It will also eliminate any issues of wood movement. You will get to figure out what edges need to be dressed to hide the plys and keep the finished piece from looking cheap, and how to hide those edges.

Lowe's carries a high grade of plywood called Whitewood that has a clean, unblemished ply layer on both faces. It would be perfect if you go with plywood. Don't be bashful about inspecting as many sheets as it takes to get clean, flat, straight plywood. Check the cut list and figure out how Lowe's can precut the 4' X 8' sheet(s) so you can handle them in your shop. Home Depot should have a similar high grade plywood, and a local building supply would be worth checking into.

 

[Rick_B]

So it looks like plywood will be the material. I looked at home depot and they have a sande ply that looked like a pretty good paintable material. I'll check out lowes too. I looked at the hardwood store - tjhey have a birch plywood but it is over $40 more than the sande ply at HD.
Rick

 

[Canuck]

So it looks like plywood will be the material. I looked at home depot and they have a sande ply that looked like a pretty good paintable material. I'll check out lowes too. I looked at the hardwood store - tjhey have a birch plywood but it is over $40 more than the sande ply at HD.
Rick

Check out Columbia Forest Products Purebond plywood at Home Depot. It is a NC product and only about $10 more a sheet over Sande ply. Quality is much better, low number voids and requires very little sending prior to painting.

 

[smallboat]

I’ve used both the sande ply and Purebond on recent projects.
I finished with waterbased clear urethane in both cases.
The Purebond is far superior to the Sande -
It took fewer coats and much less sanding to get a good finish. I’m sure the same would be true of paint.
It was also nicer to work with, cleaner cuts, better holding for fasteners.
Pretty much what you’d expect from hardwoods vs soft.

For my time the difference is worth the $

 

[Rick_B]

A number of folks have steered me away from Big Box plywood - issues with flatness and stability. I checked out Steve Wall Lumber - they have a furniture grade birch veneer core plywood for $90 a sheet (I need 4). Would this be a good choice with regard to both a paint finish and stability?
Rick

 

[tri4sale]

A number of folks have steered me away from Big Box plywood - issues with flatness and stability. I checked out Steve Wall Lumber - they have a furniture grade birch veneer core plywood for $90 a sheet (I need 4). Would this be a good choice with regard to both a paint finish and stability?
Rick

Yes, it will be fine. Honestly the big box plywood would be fine for this also. Since you're painting it, and exposed ends get a veneer edging, any plywood will work.

 

[Rick_B]

For those who have built the create a bed Murphy bed does it fit flat against the wall at the bottom. I have an outlet where the bed is going to be placed and am wondering if that will interfere?

 

[tri4sale]

For those who have built the create a bed Murphy bed does it fit flat against the wall at the bottom. I have an outlet where the bed is going to be placed and am wondering if that will interfere?

Yes, its supposed to go flat against the bottom and the wall, you have to remove the trim. Depending on where the outlet is, the backside is open in some areas so it may not touch the outlet. My first one had an outlet behind it that wasn't in the way.

 

[Cbozz]

Lowe's carries a high grade of plywood called Whitewood that has a clean, unblemished ply layer on both faces.

I would highly, highly dispute that Whitewood is in any way high quality. The one time I tried it it was very weak, full of voids, and delaminated easily. In most applications I'd prefer MDF.

For this kind of thing I usually buy the best applicable coupon I can find on ebay and get the purebond maple or birch from HD.

 

[robliles]

How high up on the wall is the outlet? If it is a code requirement, which I think is around 17 or 18" to the top of the outlet, you are going to be really close to the mattress when the bed is closed. If it is below this level, it will probably be in a fairly open space. I would still be nervous having an outlet closed off like that while the bed is closed.

 

[ashley_phil]

fwiw if you cut a thin 1/4" or 1/8" band you can tack that on with pins and glue around the plywood edges.

 

[Rick_B]

How high up on the wall is the outlet? If it is a code requirement, which I think is around 17 or 18" to the top of the outlet, you are going to be really close to the mattress when the bed is closed. If it is below this level, it will probably be in a fairly open space. I would still be nervous having an outlet closed off like that while the bed is closed.

The top of the outlet is 15" from the floor. What is your concern with an outlet behind a closed bed? If push comes to shove I can pull the outlet and use the box as a junction box with a blank cover.

Rick

 

[Rick_B]

fwiw if you cut a thin 1/4" or 1/8" band you can tack that on with pins and glue around the plywood edges.

that's not a bad idea but I'll have to adjust measurements
Rick