Miter Saw Table?

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SevenPin

New User
R
Hey there - It's been a while since I last posted :(. I've got in mind a new project. I would like to move my miter saw from it's mobile base to a more permament location against one of the shop walls. I've seen your pictures of how the table is built and I'm leaning towards lowering the saw and matching the height on the new table (yet to be built). I would like to have a fence of some sort on the table so I can use a stop block to make repetitive cuts. But I also like the idea of having more table top area spread stuff out on. Any ideas on how I might approach this? One idea is making a T-square that can be clamped on the edge of the table for short cuts. For longer cuts, maybe an 2X4 extension off the open end of the table with a brace to the floor for the really long cuts. Am I missing anything that might work better (I know I am but be gentle :rotflm: -- I'm new at this shop layout stuff).

Thanks for any and all suggestions.

SevenPin
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Almost 2 years ago, I built this one. I used the Kreg track and stop blocks for the fence. I placed a shop vac in the center cabinet to catch some of the dust and a slide out tray for my sharpening gear.

100_2920.jpg

View image in gallery



More pictures in my gallery.....

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=2191

Maybe you can use soem of the ideas here.

Wayne
 

sandfarm

Joe
User
I built my mitre saw in permanent in the same table. Long boards lay either side of the RAS. From left to right. 14 feet to the RAS blade about 4 more feet to the mitre saw blade and the about 4 feet to the end of the table.
My fence is wood and runs the whole length.
So far everything is working for me.
Joe Isley
 

SevenPin

New User
R
Almost 2 years ago, I built this one. I used the Kreg track and stop blocks for the fence. I placed a shop vac in the center cabinet to catch some of the dust and a slide out tray for my sharpening gear.

More pictures in my gallery.....

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=2191

Maybe you can use soem of the ideas here.

Wayne

Thanks Wayne. I guess that's my dilemma -- Do I need the fences on either side of the Miter saw since the mobile stand doesn't have any? It does make it easy to use the stop block and hold-down as shown in your pictures. I just thought of something else -- What if I buried a t-track in the table top that's not in line with the miter saw's fence and use a hold-down or a toggle clamp?

Thanks for posting the pictures and giving a link to your gallery. It helps alot. :icon_thum

SevenPin
 

SevenPin

New User
R
I built my mitre saw in permanent in the same table. Long boards lay either side of the RAS. From left to right. 14 feet to the RAS blade about 4 more feet to the mitre saw blade and the about 4 feet to the end of the table.
My fence is wood and runs the whole length.
So far everything is working for me.
Joe Isley

Thanks Joe. I've got my late Father-in-Law's RAS that I'm hoping to incorporate like you have done. Unfortunately. I only have about 8 feet of wall space to work with but I can go out farther into the doorway by another 6 feet. What I was hoping to do is have space where I can work on assembly projects and not have a fence installed that would limit my available depth on the table.

SevenPin
 

BrianBDH

New User
Brian
I don't have a picture or a specific reference, but I know I have seen miter saw tables with slide-out supports on the sides. Seems like you could bias your saw to the right (giving more working room to the left side) and use a slider on the right for the occasions when it is needed.

Note to Wayne - not fair showing us all up with that kitchen grade cabinet you made for your miter saw!

Brian
 

SevenPin

New User
R

SevenPin

New User
R
I don't have a picture or a specific reference, but I know I have seen miter saw tables with slide-out supports on the sides. Seems like you could bias your saw to the right (giving more working room to the left side) and use a slider on the right for the occasions when it is needed.

Note to Wayne - not fair showing us all up with that kitchen grade cabinet you made for your miter saw!

Brian

Thanks Brian. I may even be able to bury the slide out under the table top then pull it out when needed.

SevenPin
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
I have been designing a combination RAS / miter saw cabinet for around a year. I have a question on the cabinet shown above. Do you have any vertical adjusment to keep your saw & table top aligned as time goes by and the table shifts & changes?

Here's a picture of my present RAS table pre miter saw. It was built in 1980. I thought a sawdust chute was a great idea. It looks great, but it don't work. In hinesight the drwers are not deep enough for saw blades. I used Kreg track attached to the fence top & Kreg's fold down stop. The table is leveled at the saw using the saw's system. The table extensions are supported by 1/2 inch bolts which allow for both up & down and front to back (warp) adjustments.

Pop

Radial-Armn Saw cabinet 1980s.jpg
 

sandfarm

Joe
User
Forgot to say. My fence is not permanent so that it can be replaced easily. It is wedged in from behind at or below table height.
Fences don't tend to move much anyway once tight. I wedged with red oak and it doesn't seem to move any at all.
Joe
 
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