Mating PVC to Dust Collector Inlet

[LB75]

I know the topic of dust collection piping has been beaten to death in here, but I haven't been able to find an answer to this question. I'm finishing up running my 6" D-2729 thinwall pipe and am ready to make the connection to the inlet of my collector (2HP Laguna Cyclone), but cannot figure out a good way of mating them. The cyclone inlet port fits easily inside the thinwall pipe, but I can see that causing an issue with dust and chips getting snagged on the way in and causing a blockage since there's about 1/8" difference between the inside diameter of the pipe and the outside diameter of the inlet which results in a 1/16" gap between the two.

I thought about using a very short piece of flex to mate the two, but that seems to defeat the recommended goal of getting about 3 to 5 feet of straight smooth pipe at the inlet to the collector before the first bend or piece of flex.

I looked at the Fernco rubber couplers, but since they're made to made to cast iron, they are way too big to work on this one.

Any ideas or suggestions from you guys?

 

[Charlie]

Crimp the end of the 6" so it fits inside the cyclone inlet.

 

[LB75]

Crimp the end of the 6" so it fits inside the cyclone inlet.

I'm working with PVC pipe Charlie, I'm not aware of any method to crimp it like you suggest.

 

[zapdafish]

maybe something like this?

https://store.acpro.com/sheet-metal/tapers-reducers-increasers/1-piece-taper

 

[DanR]

I used a rubber coupler, I don't remember for sure, but I think I got it at Lowes and that they have the ones for cast and also for the sewer and drain pipe.

The sewer and and drain pipe can be resized with a heat gun. If you have a lathe and turn a cylinder with a taper at the first inch you can heat the pipe and pound in the cylinder. I have not done this, but have seen similar on YouTube. If you don't have a heat gun I bet a pot of boiling water would do fine.

 

[ehpoole]

You may wish to just go ahead and try it as is. I would be very surprised if you ever had a clog as a consequence of the 1/8" lip provided you have an appropriate amount of air flowing through your ducting. There are people who use corrugated pipe for their flex hose, a far worse alternative from a flow perspective, and you do not find widespread reports of clogging with such setups.

But if the lip really bothers you you could always sand, grind, scrape, or router a chamfer into it so that it is beveled and presents a much thinner initial cross section. You will, however, need to use something to make for a tighter fit as a very loose fit is obviously problematic.

 

[wasmeneh]

+1 on heating the PVC. Did it to make my connections. Regarding crimping the PVC, you can cut some slots in it so it can "crimp" inside the inlet either way would work, a little Duct tape does wonders.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Charlie]

OOOps!

Yes, heat the PVC and shrink it. Install a band clamp on the PCV, slide the the unit over the cyclone inlet, heat and close the clamp until it's tight on the inlet.

 

[LB75]

Thanks everyone! The heating up the pipe and using a band clamp worked like a charm.

 

[allisnut]

On a completely unrelated note, I was a a genius and hero to my 12 year old a few weeks ago. He wanted to make a fender for his BMX bike. I split a piece of 2" pvc length wise, held one end in the wood stove for a couple minutes, molded it around the tire, and repeated with the other end. He was amazed. I was a genius for almost 10 minutes.

I'm glad you got your probelm resolved, I was going to suggest heating the pvc and shrinking it.

 

[LB75]

On a completely unrelated note, I was a a genius and hero to my 12 year old a few weeks ago. He wanted to make a fender for his BMX bike. I split a piece of 2" pvc length wise, held one end in the wood stove for a couple minutes, molded it around the tire, and repeated with the other end. He was amazed. I was a genius for almost 10 minutes.

If only they would remember that you're a genius for the rest of their lives. Sadly, it fades....

 

[woodlaker2]

Got here late and it seems you got your answer ...heating and reshaping the pvc...but could you share where you got your 6 " 2729 thin wall PVC?

Thanks

 

[LB75]

Got here late and it seems you got your answer ...heating and reshaping the pvc...but could you share where you got your 6 " 2729 thin wall PVC?

Thanks

Ruehlen Plumbing Supply in Concord stocks it.

 

[LB75]

Got here late and it seems you got your answer ...heating and reshaping the pvc...but could you share where you got your 6 " 2729 thin wall PVC?

Thanks

Looks like Ruehlen also has a location in Albermarle, little bit closer to you.

 

[DanR]

Thanks everyone! The heating up the pipe and using a band clamp worked like a charm.

George, what was the band clamp for? Did you heat it and then wrap the band clamp around to shrink it?

 

[LB75]

George, what was the band clamp for? Did you heat it and then wrap the band clamp around to shrink it?

Yes, I just used the band clamp to compress it after heating the pipe.

 

[tarheelz]

Great idea for the PVC mods.

 

[junquecol]

OOOps!

Yes, heat the PVC and shrink it. Install a band clamp on the PCV, slide the the unit over the cyclone inlet, heat and close the clamp until it's tight on the inlet.

I put band clamp on pipe, then place end including band clamp on pan of boiling water for about five minutes. Quickly place pipe over inlet, and using cordless drill tighten clamp. WARNING- You will have to cut pipe to get it off inlet. This is how I mount aluminum blast gates to PVC.

 

[tarheelz]

I put band clamp on pipe, then place end including band clamp on pan of boiling water for about five minutes. Quickly place pipe over inlet, and using cordless drill tighten clamp. WARNING- You will have to cut pipe to get it off inlet. This is how I mount aluminum blast gates to PVC.

When you say "pipe," are you talking about just a fitting or are you actually wrangling a 10' pipe for a dip in a frying pan? (I would pay to watch that YouTube video.)

My wife would kill me...

 

[junquecol]

When you say "pipe," are you talking about just a fitting or are you actually wrangling a 10' pipe for a dip in a frying pan? (I would pay to watch that YouTube video.)

My wife would kill me...

Depends, but usually for blast gates, I use length of pipe needed to make connection to DC manifold. In this case, I would use a section 12-18" long, and then use a coupling. Joints aren't solvent welded, only friction fit. Almost every cyclone requires a couple off sets to line inlet with DC manifold, so it isn't a problem. With a helper, a ten foot section could be easily handled. Remember you only have to heat a couple inches of pipe.