Jointer Question - Yes, another jointer question

Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
Emailed Grizzly, since I am leaning more towards the stand alone tools (non combo), and they won't ship their 8" G0495x/SB1091 to my house. They don't even offer a freight/lift gate service. They said, "Machines this size are suggested to be delivered to places with loading docks or forklifts on hand. Usually there are local places of work and/or businesses, even through friends and family, that can accept the delivery for you. Transporting it to your final location would then be up to you. Sometimes people will hire outside help to assist, rent forklifts or other equipment, etc. Getting something this size to a residence that is not equipped to receive it is not convenient, unfortunately."

Although this most likely is true, this isn't something a garage woodworker wants to hear. Seems like "a lot" of hassle to get an 8" jointer to a residence. Maybe I am wrong in thinking this?

G0495x:8" x 83" Helical Cutterhead Jointer with Exclusive Digital Height Readout at Grizzly.com
SB1091: 8" Parallelogram Jointer with Helical Cutterhead at Grizzly.com

I'm not really wanting a combo machine (Hammer A3-31, Minimax, Woodmizer, etc.), so maybe another brand with shorter bed and less weight might be a better option (laguna JX|8 II, Oliver)?

Anyone go through this sort of thing before? If so, what did you do in situations like this?
Any suggestions/options would be greatly appreciated.


Rory
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Emailed Grizzly, since I am leaning more towards the stand alone tools (non combo), and they won't ship their 8" G0495x/SB1091 to my house. They don't even offer a freight/lift gate service. They said, "Machines this size are suggested to be delivered to places with loading docks or forklifts on hand. Usually there are local places of work and/or businesses, even through friends and family, that can accept the delivery for you. Transporting it to your final location would then be up to you. Sometimes people will hire outside help to assist, rent forklifts or other equipment, etc. Getting something this size to a residence that is not equipped to receive it is not convenient, unfortunately."

Although this most likely is true, this isn't something a garage woodworker wants to hear. Seems like "a lot" of hassle to get an 8" jointer to a residence. Maybe I am wrong in thinking this?

G0495x:8" x 83" Helical Cutterhead Jointer with Exclusive Digital Height Readout at Grizzly.com
SB1091: 8" Parallelogram Jointer with Helical Cutterhead at Grizzly.com

I'm not really wanting a combo machine (Hammer A3-31, Minimax, Woodmizer, etc.), so maybe another brand with shorter bed and less weight might be a better option (laguna JX|8 II, Oliver)?

Anyone go through this sort of thing before? If so, what did you do in situations like this?
Any suggestions/options would be greatly appreciated.


Rory
We get that often. My shop is accessible out in the country and I use a tractor with a forklift attachment to offload. We get about 3 semi's in here a week, but because it is listed as a residential address, some carriers refuse to deliver here. Then we give them a non-residential address, 1 mile up the road, which is actually a city park and they deliver there, we catch the driver, tell him where to park and offload.
Sometimes, the carrier does not even have a pallet jack to move it to the back of the truck so we can grab it and we have to supply that also.

Your safest bet is to get it delivered at a depot fedex freight or UPS and then get someone with a truck to go pick it up. It will be on a skid and they have equipment at the depot to load it on the truck. I am sure Grizzly will be willing to deliver to your nearest depot.
 

Warped Woodwerks

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Senior User
Thanks for the information.

IF I had it delivered to a depot, and I was able to find someone kind enough with a truck to assist me... not sure how "easy" it would be to get it on/off of the truck and into my garage. If it was in the bed of a truck, or on a trailer, I'm thinking I would need to rent an engine hoist, then gently place it on a mobile base or something?


Thank you for the valuable information. Depending on other manufacturers responses, I might just forgo a jointer, for now, and get a 15" planer & use a jig or something. :\

Thanks again.
 

Fred J

Fred
User
Based on your post, sounds Grizzly is saying they don’t ship with lift gate service. Why not find out the freight company Grizzly ships with, then work out lift gate delivery with the freight company. It’s going to cost extra but it gets it to your house. I can’t think of any LTL carrier that doesn’t have a lift gate trailer and pallet jacks.

Also, have you considered inquiring if someone in the forum could assist you with planing the boards to your working dimensions? It’d save a lot of money. In the end, it’s your budget and decision but $4k can buy a lot of tools depending on the tool and brand.
 

Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
Based on your post, sounds Grizzly is saying they don’t ship with lift gate service. Why not find out the freight company Grizzly ships with, then work out lift gate delivery with the freight company. It’s going to cost extra but it gets it to your house. I can’t think of any LTL carrier that doesn’t have a lift gate trailer and pallet jacks.

Also, have you considered inquiring if someone in the forum could assist you with planing the boards to your working dimensions? It’d save a lot of money. In the end, it’s your budget and decision but $4k can buy a lot of tools depending on the tool and brand.
Fred...

It appears that way, at least, with this specific sized jointer or larger.

I like their G0495x model, but for a few hundred more, I would get their South Bend version. Unfortunately, that would be about $4k, then I would have to do some extra leg work to get it to my house. After all said and done, too rich for my blood for what I would get.

I agree, imo ~$4,000 is a lot for a jointer, especially a hobbyist.

If I stepped down in price, $2,500 - $3,200, there are a couple other options that could be shipped directly to my house.

Laguna, Oliver, and Grizzly all make, what appears to be, similar versions.

JX|8 Parallelogram w/sheartec (byrd\shelix style cutter head): JX|8 ShearTec: II Jointer is a little less $$ ($3,200 before any sale, which I think they typically have 10% in March or April?), beds 75/5" table length, 380lb net weight, Not sure about this model Laguna, but maybe it might be worth looking into?

Oliver has a jointer that looks very similar to the above mentioned Laguna.
8" Parallelogram Jointer w/4 Sided Insert Helical Cutterhead - 4235 Only $2,350, but has a 2HP, compared to Laguna's 3HP. The Oliver is made in Taiwan, which is probably where the Laguna is made, as well as the Grizzly

Grizzly G0858 (8" x 76" Parallelogram Jointer with Helical Cutterhead & Mobile Base at Grizzly.com)

If anyone can comment on the above mentioned 3 jointers, I'd like to hear your input.... I am trying to narrow down my choice/s before March.

Maybe :
1st - Laguna JX|8 Sheartec
2nd - Grizzly G0858
3rd - Oliver 4235
?

Also.. with regards to your 2nd comment, about asking others to jointing/plane some of my stock. I am sure someone on here would not mind, but I wouldn't want to put that on anyone. If it was for 1-2 small boards, and only 1 time, maybe... but....

If I am beating a dead horse, or nit picking over 1-2 minute (my noot) details, with this post, I apologize.

As always, thank you for your responses.

Rory
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Fred...

It appears that way, at least, with this specific sized jointer or larger.

I like their G0495x model, but for a few hundred more, I would get their South Bend version. Unfortunately, that would be about $4k, then I would have to do some extra leg work to get it to my house. After all said and done, too rich for my blood for what I would get.

I agree, imo ~$4,000 is a lot for a jointer, especially a hobbyist.

If I stepped down in price, $2,500 - $3,200, there are a couple other options that could be shipped directly to my house.

Laguna, Oliver, and Grizzly all make, what appears to be, similar versions.

JX|8 Parallelogram w/sheartec (byrd\shelix style cutter head): JX|8 ShearTec: II Jointer is a little less $$ ($3,200 before any sale, which I think they typically have 10% in March or April?), beds 75/5" table length, 380lb net weight, Not sure about this model Laguna, but maybe it might be worth looking into?

Oliver has a jointer that looks very similar to the above mentioned Laguna.
8" Parallelogram Jointer w/4 Sided Insert Helical Cutterhead - 4235 Only $2,350, but has a 2HP, compared to Laguna's 3HP. The Oliver is made in Taiwan, which is probably where the Laguna is made, as well as the Grizzly

Grizzly G0858 (8" x 76" Parallelogram Jointer with Helical Cutterhead & Mobile Base at Grizzly.com)

If anyone can comment on the above mentioned 3 jointers, I'd like to hear your input.... I am trying to narrow down my choice/s before March.

Maybe :
1st - Laguna JX|8 Sheartec
2nd - Grizzly G0858
3rd - Oliver 4235
?

Also.. with regards to your 2nd comment, about asking others to jointing/plane some of my stock. I am sure someone on here would not mind, but I wouldn't want to put that on anyone. If it was for 1-2 small boards, and only 1 time, maybe... but....

If I am beating a dead horse, or nit picking over 1-2 minute (my noot) details, with this post, I apologize.

As always, thank you for your responses.

Rory
For what it is worth, I purchased the predecessor of this one ( 8" x 72" Jointer with Built-in Mobile Base at Grizzly.com ) almost 20 years ago, when my woodworking was just a hobby. It is not been a hobby for several years now and this machine has done more bf, than I can remember. Even stopped counting the amount of 14' long 8/4 counter tops produced with it. It only has straight blades, which I find last a long time and they do the job well enough. Through the years I have only replaced cutters and that normally happens after someone forgot to remove a staple in a board from the lumber yard.

If yours is just a hobby, think about why you need all the bells and whistles.
 

mpeele

michael
User
For what it is worth, I purchased the predecessor of this one ( 8" x 72" Jointer with Built-in Mobile Base at Grizzly.com ) almost 20 years ago, when my woodworking was just a hobby. It is not been a hobby for several years now and this machine has done more bf, than I can remember. Even stopped counting the amount of 14' long 8/4 counter tops produced with it. It only has straight blades, which I find last a long time and they do the job well enough. Through the years I have only replaced cutters and that normally happens after someone forgot to remove a staple in a board from the lumber yard.

If yours is just a hobby, think about why you need all the bells and whistles.
At the risk of sounding like a "wise ass" are you saying you face/edge joint 14' plus material on a 8" X 72" jointer. I've been at this a long time and 4' to 5' (and then it's going to start out fairly straight and flat) for face jointing on a 72" jointer is my limit. Anything over that is getting cut into shorter pieces. Since I got a track saw I hardly ever edge joint on my jointer.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
At the risk of sounding like a "wise ass" are you saying you face/edge joint 14' plus material on a 8" X 72" jointer. I've been at this a long time and 4' to 5' (and then it's going to start out fairly straight and flat) for face jointing on a 72" jointer is my limit. Anything over that is getting cut into shorter pieces. Since I got a track saw I hardly ever edge joint on my jointer.
Yes, I have never owned or used a track saw, hard to believe it leaves a worthy joint edge line unseen after glue-up.

On a 14’ board the tuning (outfeed table height and plumb) needs to be perfect and either a set of hands to help, or alternatively I use two roller stands, one before and one after for support. I do this all the time.

833DDA0B-6E95-4D9F-8B2B-932EA50BBA8C.jpeg

E933015D-9223-48F8-881F-3BD16B6329B8.jpeg

73DF311C-75A7-4707-BB02-3D74EE2D3635.jpeg
 
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Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
For what it is worth, I purchased the predecessor of this one ( 8" x 72" Jointer with Built-in Mobile Base at Grizzly.com ) almost 20 years ago, when my woodworking was just a hobby. It is not been a hobby for several years now and this machine has done more bf, than I can remember. Even stopped counting the amount of 14' long 8/4 counter tops produced with it. It only has straight blades, which I find last a long time and they do the job well enough. Through the years I have only replaced cutters and that normally happens after someone forgot to remove a staple in a board from the lumber yard.

If yours is just a hobby, think about why you need all the bells and whistles.
Willem,

That thing has lasted 20 years?
How has the "ease" of use been, for aligning, maintenance, etc.?

I'd like the jointer, I buy, to be able to obviously do "hobbyist" stuff, but also more down the down .Not professionals industry demanding woodworking, but if I ever start doing things for clients, I'd like a jointer that can keep up, and maybe more.
For what it is worth, I purchased the predecessor of this one ( 8" x 72" Jointer with Built-in Mobile Base at Grizzly.com ) almost 20 years ago, when my woodworking was just a hobby. It is not been a hobby for several years now and this machine has done more bf, than I can remember. Even stopped counting the amount of 14' long 8/4 counter tops produced with it. It only has straight blades, which I find last a long time and they do the job well enough. Through the years I have only replaced cutters and that normally happens after someone forgot to remove a staple in a board from the lumber yard.

If yours is just a hobby, think about why you need all the bells and whistles.
Willem,

At the current moment, my woodworking is just a hobby. I have no plans of ever going full-time with woodworking. True, I don't need bells & whistles, but current tech (without the gimmicks) would be nice to have (spiral/helical & parallelogram). Also, something that doesn't give me migraines whenever I try and use or adjust it.

If I ever do decide to make dining room tables (things of this size for myself & others, or doing work for clients/commission), I'd like a machine that can easily handle this task without headaches.

Grizzly has the G0858, which has 76" tables, helical cutter, and parallelogram, and is only $2,500, so I might consider that. If not, I think the only other option would be the Laguna JX8 Sheartec II, 72" tables, $3,100. Not sure how one compares over the other (fit, finish, reliability, customer service, etc.), but I think it might be a flip of the coin? Anyone have any experience with these 2?

Yes, I think $2,500+ for a jointer is pricey, but this is the world we currently live in. :\ I can't seem to find what I want in a used jointer, in my area, so I am OK with buying new.


Thanks...
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Willem,

That thing has lasted 20 years?
How has the "ease" of use been, for aligning, maintenance, etc.?

I'd like the jointer, I buy, to be able to obviously do "hobbyist" stuff, but also more down the down .Not professionals industry demanding woodworking, but if I ever start doing things for clients, I'd like a jointer that can keep up, and maybe more.

Willem,

At the current moment, my woodworking is just a hobby. I have no plans of ever going full-time with woodworking. True, I don't need bells & whistles, but current tech (without the gimmicks) would be nice to have (spiral/helical & parallelogram). Also, something that doesn't give me migraines whenever I try and use or adjust it.

If I ever do decide to make dining room tables (things of this size for myself & others, or doing work for clients/commission), I'd like a machine that can easily handle this task without headaches.

Grizzly has the G0858, which has 76" tables, helical cutter, and parallelogram, and is only $2,500, so I might consider that. If not, I think the only other option would be the Laguna JX8 Sheartec II, 72" tables, $3,100. Not sure how one compares over the other (fit, finish, reliability, customer service, etc.), but I think it might be a flip of the coin? Anyone have any experience with these 2?

Yes, I think $2,500+ for a jointer is pricey, but this is the world we currently live in. :\ I can't seem to find what I want in a used jointer, in my area, so I am OK with buying new.


Thanks...
Since new, over 20 years I believe I changed the belts once. I have never had to align the tables, since initial assembly. It has been moved four times across state lines. When I replace knives, the outfeed table height is adjusted and tweaked. That is perhaps twice a year, with a lot of use.

Important to understand, the jointer plays only part of the role.

The counter tops shown starts off with rough sawn lumber 8/4 on the jointer. To get them milled perfectly flat for a good glue-up the table saw and planer plays equal parts.

So in short, the quality of your jointer, table saw and planer needs to be compatible to produce the needed results. In other words if you choose to spend high dollar on a jointer, the same investments should apply on the rest of your machines.

In response to your second post above, I have found that most everything coming out of Taiwan shows excellent quality. If I had to purchase a jointer today, width would be more important, as 8” is a bit limiting. For the occasional wider board to flatten, they have to be ripped to 8” or less. There are advantages and disadvantages to doing this.

When this was only a hobby, I use to custom grind my knives towards getting a perfect finish on figured lumber, needing no sanding. But these days there is no time to play and I don’t bother. No experience with helical carbide cutters, but I believe you will need sanding after the jointer.
 
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Warped Woodwerks

.
Senior User
Since new, over 20 years I believe I changed the belts once. I have never had to align the tables, since initial assembly. It has been moved four times across state lines. When I replace knives, the outfeed table height is adjusted and tweaked. That is perhaps twice a year, with a lot of use.

Important to understand, the jointer plays only part of the role.

The counter tops shown starts off with rough sawn lumber 8/4 on the jointer. To get them milled perfectly flat for a good glue-up the table saw and planer plays equal parts.

So in short, the quality of your jointer, table saw and planer needs to be compatible to produce the needed results. In other words if you choose to spend high dollar on a jointer, the same investments should apply on the rest of your machines.

In response to your second post above, I have found that most everything coming out of Taiwan shows excellent quality. If I had to purchase a jointer today, width would be more important, as 8” is a bit limiting. For the occasional wider board to flatten, they have to be ripped to 8” or less. There are advantages and disadvantages to doing this.

When this was only a hobby, I use to custom grind my knives towards getting a perfect finish on figured lumber, needing no sanding. But these days there is no time to play and I don’t bother. No experience with helical carbide cutters, but I believe you will need sanding after the jointer.
That is a pretty good track record, especially for ~20 years.

With regards to your comment about machine investment. I currently have a SS PCS 3hp, so 1 down and a few more to go. I don't want to skimp on the jointer, planer, etc., and I have a feeling 8" would be ok, but I'd really like a 12" jointer. Even if it is only for my hobby, possibly side hustle, down the road.

Also, a lot of work would have to be done, in my garage/shop, in order to get a 30A tool in there (12" jointer). Not to mention the amount of $$ that would be needed to buy the actual tool ($6k+ for a new 12" jointer). If I ever had a 12" jointer, I know I would never upgrade.

1 question about an 8" vs 12+" jointer. Would it actually be advisable to buy a jointer that is wider than 8" (or too wide)? I read, somewhere, on another website, that jointing "too" wide of boards has a tendency to warp/cup a lot easier than anything 8" or narrower. Maybe it all comes down to numerous factors (humidity, moisture content, etc.), but I am curious. This answer might sway me...

Since I have a decent table saw, and track saw, I don't think I ever need to entertain the idea of a jointer over 8". Who knows.. I could be wrong.

If I do decide on going 12", I would have to save up for 1 more year.

If your hobby is now a business, I agree with you about grinding your blades. Probably a lot quicker to just buy replacements and work that cost into the price of your furniture.

Correct, regardless of carbide inserts, I would still throw a sander over the wood.

Thanks again for your insight, as well as everyone else's.

Rory
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
That is a pretty good track record, especially for ~20 years.

With regards to your comment about machine investment. I currently have a SS PCS 3hp, so 1 down and a few more to go. I don't want to skimp on the jointer, planer, etc., and I have a feeling 8" would be ok, but I'd really like a 12" jointer. Even if it is only for my hobby, possibly side hustle, down the road.

Also, a lot of work would have to be done, in my garage/shop, in order to get a 30A tool in there (12" jointer). Not to mention the amount of $$ that would be needed to buy the actual tool ($6k+ for a new 12" jointer). If I ever had a 12" jointer, I know I would never upgrade.

1 question about an 8" vs 12+" jointer. Would it actually be advisable to buy a jointer that is wider than 8" (or too wide)? I read, somewhere, on another website, that jointing "too" wide of boards has a tendency to warp/cup a lot easier than anything 8" or narrower. Maybe it all comes down to numerous factors (humidity, moisture content, etc.), but I am curious. This answer might sway me...

Since I have a decent table saw, and track saw, I don't think I ever need to entertain the idea of a jointer over 8". Who knows.. I could be wrong.

If I do decide on going 12", I would have to save up for 1 more year.

If your hobby is now a business, I agree with you about grinding your blades. Probably a lot quicker to just buy replacements and work that cost into the price of your furniture.

Correct, regardless of carbide inserts, I would still throw a sander over the wood.

Thanks again for your insight, as well as everyone else's.

Rory
About the 8” versus 12”, on a flat sawn board the wider it gets, the higher will be the risk of cupping over time in the finished piece. But it depends on where in the log it was flat sawn.

I find most 8/4 lumber these days are sold below 8 wide. But we do get a few which are a little wider. So If I get a 9 1/2” board for example it will be ripped either in 4 1/2” or more probably 8”, meaning 1 1/2” ends up as throw away offcuts. That relates to 18% wastage.

Just for kicks here is a picture of my old machine, and really to this day it does everything I would expect from an eight inch jointer.
4975DDC5-D371-4088-838E-B9AB439F9D7C.jpeg
 
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