How to correct for blade drift on small band saw?

[johnpipe108]

I've purchased my first band saw, a Craftsman 10" 2-wheeler, and looked for info on correcting for blade drift (after I found out there was such a thing, when I took a closer look at the second pieces I had cut, using the fence, and saw that they were tapered!). However, all I have found seems to apply to 14" and larger saws, which apparently have fences that can be adjusted relative to the table, similar to the adjustments available on T-square fences for the tablesaw, and the methods given for measuring and correcting drift that I found are only applicable to these larger saws.

On this small saw, and possibly most/all of them, the fence (if provided, they don't all seem to include one) is arranged to lock from both sides of the table, so it always squares to the table. The only adjustment I can seem to find for blade drift, then is, possibly, the small amount of play in the bolts that clamp the table to the trunnion (although this may also be limited by the saw slot, so it looks iffy as to whether it's practical to correct on these small saws).

Does anyone know a good method, given this adjustment situation, to determine the error and correct the table/fence combination to the drift? Or, should I just forget about measurements and just try to adjust by "guess and by gosh"?

Or maybe I need to discard the factory fence and make one that's adjustable (not that I would know how to do that successfully)?


Thanks, John

 

[Travis Porter]

A fence that locks front and back is going to be difficult to adjust for drift. Can you rework it so it only locks at the front? Then you might be able to drill the holes out for the bolts so you can get some adjustment.

Mike's comment about making one is not a bad idea. I have seen one in Woodsmith that used a piece of aluminum angle for the fence rail and was baltic birch plywood for the actual fence.

 

[JohnW]

I have the Rikon version of that saw and normally keep a small blade in it for squiggly work...but on occation have used a streight piece of maple and two C-clamps for a fence. I have used a larger blade and done a good bit of slicing using the temp wood fence and it worked very well.

 

[Joe Scharle]

You can find volumes of advice about drift. Personally, I just accept it and use a pivot fence like this.

 

[rhett]

First and formost make sure the blade is top dead center on the upper wheel. This will help keep drit to a minimum. To determine drift take a combination square and run a 1" line parallel down the length of a straight board. Cut as close to the line as possible, and midway thru the cut turn off the saw being carefull not to move the board. The angle you had to push the piece thru is how much drift the blade has. Mark this line on the table. Slide your factory fence to the front edge of the line and measure the distance from the back, or vise versa depending on how the blade drifts. Cut a small shim this thickness and apply it to the end of a 3/4" piece of plywood approx the size of your fence. Now double stick tape the plywood to your factory fence and the drift angle will be set on your fence. Keep in mind blades will drift differently regardless of how well tuned your saw is. Good luck.

 

[johnpipe108]

You can find volumes of advice about drift. Personally, I just accept it and use a pivot fence like this.

Interesting, that looks like something I could actually do; trying to modify the existing fence, or make my own "conventional" fence is doomed to failure.

Thanks, John

 

[Joe Scharle]

No featherboard, just one square edge. BTW, you've got the knack to get 1/16" pieces. My eyeballs are only good for 1/8" with a lot of light!
Joe

 

[newtonc]

this may be stupid of me to ask...
you never mentioned about set up.
blade tension and blade guides are all alligned correctly?
table square to blade?