How do you sign your bowls?

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tom.m

Tom
Senior User
Up until recently, I haven't felt the bowls I turned were worthy of a signature. Now that we have our own home shop and are spending several days a week working in them, our work is getting to the point where we think it is finally time to claim them. What do you use to sign? Sharpie, burning, other? Does the finish on the bowl effect what you use? What info do you write on the bottom?

Also, we only recently got into turning platters, about a month ago. We're feeling pretty confident in our product and want to display some of them in our house. Are there vendors out there who specialize in display stands? Many of the stands I've seen online are very expensive. I want to display the platters and not the stand. Are there inexpensive displays you can buy in quantity? I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
 

cyclopentadiene

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I use a black vellum marker from Michaels for everything I make. I think handwritten is more personal than a custom burner and I am not steady enough to use a wood burner or engraver. I have found that these markers do not run or dissolve in any finish that I have ever tried. A sharpie etc will bleed or completely erase with most solvent based finishes.
I have a symbol and date each piece. Usually on turnings on the bottom with my symbol in the center and the wood species and date in a semicircle around the base. On tables, I sign the bottom near one of the legs. On other pieces, the bottom or if there are drawers, the bottom of one of the drawers.
The finish will protect the signature
 

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
#2 graphite pencil also seems to work with shellac and lacquer, but I use a pyrography pen to sign my work. I'm not the steadiest guy, but with the woodburner,
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
I hand write my name, date, and species (if known) onto the bottom using the writing tip and my Colwood Cub Wood Burner. It won't run, rub off, etc. Some times I will even embellish the turning more using the burner. It's something I've recently started testing...not burning, but adding more than my sig with the burner.
 

Mrfixit71

Board of Directors, Treasurer
Rich
Staff member
Corporate Member
My son got me a branding iron with my name on it that I use on the bottom of my bowls. I usually put the year on also, with Magic Marker before I put on any finish.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I sign big stuff with the branding iron. For small turnings I used a sharpie. Going to try using my wife's wood burning kit next time. Also have heard a recommendation to use India Ink from ScottM - this can be had at craft and stationary stores.
 

Mark Johnson

Mark
Corporate Member
I use a metal stamp with my logo on it. It is precise, crisp and stays with any finish. I agree it is not as personal as handwritten; however, my handwriting is so poor that one cannot even tell what language is being used.
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
I use a metal stamp with my logo on it. It is precise, crisp and stays with any finish. I agree it is not as personal as handwritten; however, my handwriting is so poor that one cannot even tell what language is being used.


+1 Thank you, Mark. My chicken-scratching looks exactly like that! If I am going to claim that I made something, I might as well make sure you can read it correctly.
 

gritz

New User
Robert
I started with a sharpie and still use that for ornaments. Now I use a woodburner with a small round point for bigger pieces. My lettering is pretty good from early days doing drafting.
 

ehpoole

Moderator
Ethan
I think the most economical route is laser engraving...definitely laser engraving :D

But there is no point to my signing anything I build with my actual signature because if you can read it then it most certainly is not mine.

If you have a heat source (like an old clothes iron, not a good one) and a laser printer then you can also go the toner transfer approach and apply as simple or complex a design as you wish. If you want added durability you can then apply most any clear coat over top, though you may need to experiment a bit as the thermoplastic/wax used in toner may try to shed some types of top coat, but you can easily test for any issues with a scrap block of wood before trying it the first time. Just remember to render your graphic as a mirror image (many bitmap and vector editors provide for mirrored printing built into the application, as do some printer drivers) so that your graphic comes out reading correctly when applied. Gloss papers often work best for transferring toner and I typically use Hammermil Gloss brochure paper made specifically for laser printers (note that not all inkjet gloss papers are compatible with laser printers as some use a plastic film that can melt, although those that use clay to create the gloss will usually work -- but laser specific gloss papers are safest).

I have used the toner transfer method to make detailed layout guides when building certain jigs or accessories where I need very accurate placement of holes, etc. and there are many to be laced out in the design as that way every mark is precisely where it needs to be. I also use this same method for etching circuit boards for various projects as the toner acts as an etch resist and can be easily removed afterwards with acetone.
 

RainMaker

New User
Tony
Ethan,
Could you elaborate on the process you use for transferring toner from a laser printer? I can see where this would be very helpful in a number of applications. Are there any pitfalls to avoid? Also does color transfer well?
 

tom.m

Tom
Senior User
Thanks, all, for your responses. A lot of good ideas there. I especially like the branding iron idea, but would most likely opt for an electric one. I'm guessing you'd use something like a propane torch to heat the face of the other non-electric irons? That would be dangerous in my hands as I'm sure I would burn down my house.
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks, all, for your responses. A lot of good ideas there. I especially like the branding iron idea, but would most likely opt for an electric one. I'm guessing you'd use something like a propane torch to heat the face of the other non-electric irons? That would be dangerous in my hands as I'm sure I would burn down my house.

Tom, check out the electric branding irons at Rockler - this is the one I have.

http://www.rockler.com/custom-branding-iron-with-hand-crafted-tools-design-standard-head
 

red

Papa Red
Red
Senior User
I use a simple woodburning pen and write my business name and the year. I do practice on a piece of scrap before writing on the actual piece.

Red
 

Raymond

Raymond
Staff member
Corporate Member
Raymond, thanks for the link to Rockler. Are the signature plates interchangeable on the branding iron? And do you know what sizes the signatures come in? I think I must have just overlooked that on their website. Thanks much.

Tom, you can buy additional branding heads - the head attached to the holder via thread on the back of the brand.

The actual brand has threads that allow you to interchange different brands on the same heating element.
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chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Up until recently, I haven't felt the bowls I turned were worthy of a signature. Now that we have our own home shop and are spending several days a week working in them, our work is getting to the point where we think it is finally time to claim them. What do you use to sign? Sharpie, burning, other? Does the finish on the bowl effect what you use? What info do you write on the bottom?

Also, we only recently got into turning platters, about a month ago. We're feeling pretty confident in our product and want to display some of them in our house. Are there vendors out there who specialize in display stands? Many of the stands I've seen online are very expensive. I want to display the platters and not the stand. Are there inexpensive displays you can buy in quantity? I appreciate your feedback. Thanks.
Sharpie
 
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