How do YOU make your mortises?

[Bas]

I'm making some end tables, and want to try loose tenon joinery. My math isn't that great, but 8 mortises in the legs and 8 in the aprons, times three tables, let's see, carry the one, drop the chisel...well that's a whole lot of mortises.

I've done the drill press/ chisel thing when I built my workbench. Works OK, but it's slow. I've made a simple mortising jig for a plunge router that works OK, but I'd want to redo it to make it a little easier to use, more accurate etc. Building good jigs takes time and the materials aren't cheap, even if you're using using plywood, T-track and knobs.

I looked at several commercial solutions. Keep in mind that my volume of projects is pretty low, and my shop is already full. A Domino would be great - accurate, small, fast, but it's not exactly cheap. The Woodrat seems to be ideal for all sorts of joinery, but there's space and cost. I also looked at a dedicated hollow chisel mortiser, but it's another machine in the shop, and there are chisels, vices etc. to consider.

There are a few interesting jigs out there, such as the Mortise Pal, Trend MT jig, Leigh FMT, Beadlock Pro and the Dowelmax. Of these, the Mortise Pal and Trend MT jig appear to be a good balance between features, size and price.

So, what do you use for mortises? What do you like/ dislike about your current method (accuracy, ease of setup, speed, space needed, dust collection)? Ever built an adjustable jig that wasn't quite as useful as you thought it would be? Any experience with a commerical jig?

 

[Trent Mason]

I've done the drillpress and chisel, the drill and chisel, the drill press/drill and then cleaned it up with a router with fence(?). Personally, I want a mortising machine because I hate all of the above options. :rotflm: Ohhhhh to make a square hole. :swoon:

 

[WoodWrangler]

Easy man, JDS Multi-router. :gar-La;

I actually had a mortising machine (which I sold to Tom, so you could just borrow his!). They work well, but will get your arm mighty tired. And before that I had the Trend MT jig. VERY nice and worked excellent, but would be better suited if you could set it up and leave it set up.

If you plan to do a lot of MT, I would go the router route. You get smooth sides for a better glue bond and it's fairly quick and easy. The Leigh jig is top-notch.

 

[CrealBilly]

"The Bas" try a pocket knife

 

[DaveO]

For integral tenons I use a dedicated mortiser or drill and chisel square. For loose tenons I just use a router with an edge guide. I stack a bunch of stock together to give me a good bearing surface or make two L-shaped boards to clamp on to the stock to help support the router. Rounding over the edges of a loose tenon is much easier than an integral one, and lends itself to having the mortise router cut.
Don't let me stop you from buying some new-fangled gadget, but you don't need them. Half of the woodworking fun is the process of getting to the end.

Something as crude as this works great, and you don't even need a Dozer supervising -

MTCW,
Dave

 

[Joe Scharle]

Woodrat/Router Boss:

First of all, the FMT by itself cost more than the 'rat and the same as the RB. And it's a one trick pony. Add the cost of the biggest Leigh 24" DT jig ('rat & RB have a 31" DT capacity + ANY dovetail bit) which cost the same as the "rat but a little less than the RB. (RB has digital read outs and heavier aluminum than the 'rat, raising the price.)

And now that people are upgrading to the RB, Woodrats are selling used at a pretty good discount. Saw one last week for $300.00 on CL.

I know you've seen mine mounted on top of a roll around stand, but most people mount them directly to a wall. Saves space.

Come by and play with mine before you decide. You know where I live!

 

[CrealBilly]

Woodrat/Router Boss:

First of all, the FMT by itself cost more than the 'rat and the same as the RB. And it's a one trick pony. Add the cost of the biggest Leigh 24" DT jig ('rat & RB have a 31" DT capacity + ANY dovetail bit) which cost the same as the "rat but a little less than the RB. (RB has digital read outs and heavier aluminum than the 'rat, raising the price.)

And now that people are upgrading to the RB, Woodrats are selling used at a pretty good discount. Saw one last week for $300.00 on CL.

I know you've seen mine mounted on top of a roll around stand, but most people mount them directly to a wall. Saves space.

Come by and play with mine before you decide. You know where I live!

Woodworker jargon :help:

 

[Mike K]

I use to use the bench top drill press with the mortise attachment rig, but just picked up a new Delta Mortiser from a pawn shop for a song, new in the box, never used. Great deals out there. Only thing about the dedicated mortiser, better have very sharp chisels, and a very solid mounting system. MK

 

[Shayne]

Another suggestion is the beadlock system. I picked one up a long time ago on clearance at Woodcraft and for what I paid it was worth it. I noticed that Rockler has come out with the own version which seems expensive (~$100) to me but I just searched Amazon and found a Grizzly model for $32. The main drawback with the original one I got is that when you slide over the mechanism and start drilling the second set of holes, it tends to want to shift back into the original holes. I don't know if this was just a drawback of the one I got or if they are all like that. It might be worth a try if you can't come up with any other solutions that fit your criteria.

 

[Bigdog72]

The Bas, you can come by and use my Delta. It works great and, the best part, you don't have to spend any money.:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

Or, try this http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/604

 

[WoodWrangler]

I had forgot about the Woodrat ... those always caught my eye. I would consider that if I were in that market again too... just figured I'd at least say that. Worth looking at again (assuming you want something that does multiple functions)

 

[Jim Murphy]

My homemade jig using my PC7529 plunge with the factory fence works well for me.




I've used it to make a dining table, a coffee table and both of my splayed leg tables. It's made primarily of MDF with a few cherry scraps on top for the slide. I use a simple c-clamp to stop rear movement, and align the stock with the forward motion limit block. A simple face block with tail is clamped down to register the stock fore and aft, and the router fence aligned port to starboard for centering. For the splayed tables, I simply put the 7° angle ramp against the side and clamped 'er up.

Not hard to set up and very repeatable. No expensive T-track or hardware. And I round the tenons over with a sanding board (100 grit glued to a scrap).

 

[adowden]

I have primarily used a Delta benchtop mortiser and the old Beadlock system. The mortise in the benchtop mortiser is still a little sloppy (torn grain, but not loose). The beadlock was very tight, but as someone else mentioned, the last couple of passes the drill bit really wants to wander. I just received my Domino today (post to come). I am looking for something that is good and quick.

Here is a link to a FWW jig that is pretty simple if you have the same size mortises to make:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2802

I started making one a while back, and decided to use the beadlock system instead.

Amy

 

[psufaninnc]

The mortiser works great on the legs. But, on the apron you would have to spin it around, than flip it upside down, etc. Stick with a router and a jig on the apron. I've got a mortiser you can take for a few weeks if needed.

 

[Canuck]

Bas,

Just to throw another one into the mix.

I bought the Dowelmax system about three years ago and that is all I have been using. Have built several coffee tables, end tables, wine racks etc. and have always used 3/8" dowels for the joinery. Have not had one fail yet. If I have a 3/4 x 6" apron to attach to a 1 1/2" square leg I usually punch at least five holes in the apron endgrain and five into the leg and then glueup with 5 - 3/8"x1 1/2" dowels. You would be surprised at how fast you can you can make this joint. Now. I must admit that the system itself has gotten pretty pricey over the last 2 years. Jumped from about $210 all the way to about $310! (There are also 1/4" bushings for use with thinner stock.)

Come on over some time and you can take it for a test drive.

Wayne

 

[Ken Massingale]

This one from Shopnotes takes some space to store, but has been my go-to for a few years.

 

[kirkpj01]

I have a dedicated mortiser that I have used for the majority of my projects. It seems to be the easiest for me. The machine can be bolted to a workbench using T-nuts embedded and some long bolts. This makes it easy to unbolt it and put it away when not in use... I have cut a few by hand with the pig sticker type chisels but I find that it takes a bit of time and muscle.

 

[JimD]

I normally use my Jet dedicated mortiser. It takes the least set up time and gives good results. For repetitive tasks, like the plantation shutters I've made and the kitchen chairs with 22 mortises per chair, I make a jig of plywood and cut mortises with a plunge router and spiral bit. The shutters have loose tenons and the chairs have integral. I make the holes for the pins of the louvers with the same jig as I use to make the mortise. Another thing I like about the dedicated mortiser is it is relatively quiet. Routers really scream on mortises.

Jim

 

[rbdoby]

I use the mortising attachment that mounts on the side of my Robland X31 combination machine. The 3 hp motor reverses so I can use left or right twist end mills to cut the mortises.

Rick Doby

 

[DavidF]

I generally make up roughish, but accurate jigs as I go, for the current job and then bin them afterwards. Mine tend to be on the lines of DaveO's setup with two right angle platforms.I have also used the B&D work mate very successfully as well. Just holding the work between the jaws and mounting front and back stops. Use the router's adjustable side guide fence to position the centre line.