Gauge Block from Scrap....

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Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Taking a queue from Tom Hintz and his website, I decided to try my hand at putting together a Gauge/stop block for my tablesaw...

http://www.newwoodworker.com/buldgagblk.html

Looking around the "shop", I managed to find several 12"x12" 3/4" plywood cutoffs sitting in a corner, a 1/4-20 T-nut and a knob. So off I went!!!

This is the final result...







In the past, all I did was clamp a stick to the fence, but more than once; I had to stop to adjust the clamp height to clear the workpiece. Now, I just put the cradle over the fence and tighten the knob a touch and I am off and running!:icon_chee

I did price the commercial Biesemeyer version and at $49.99, I thought...oh my goodness!!!:BangHead: So for a total about $3.00 and my time, I have the same solution, in my opinion!!:eusa_danc

Thanks again, Tom for your inspiration and giving me an easy starting point!:wsmile:

I am sure that this little fixture will be handy!

Wayne

(Oh ya. Sorry, but I just noticed after reviewing the thread, that I did leave a few red bloocells on the project in the last picture that I didn't get cleaned off before the photo!!:embaresse Nothing serious. Just knicked a figure while setting my router height for the dado.:elvis:)
 

mshel

New User
Michael Shelley
Looks good Wayne, I may just have to copy your copy :gar-La;:gar-La;. I sometimes use a block but generally speaking I don't and hopefully my good luck will hold out until I make one.


MIke
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Very nice Wayne. I need to fabricate something similar. Mine should take even less time to build, since my fence has a built-in T-track for jigs like this. So how come you're done and I'm not? :)
 
T

toolferone

The jig looks very well made and should serve you well. 2 thoughts if I may; I would put some kind of pad on the end of the bolt so you don't damage your fence, & it could make for easier set up if the block was a true 1 inch thick (making it easier to set up the fence (simple math for my simple mind). I am pretty sure the Biesmeyer is 1". As always just my $.02 worth.
 
M

McRabbet

Wayne,

A nifty fence straddling gauge block and stop. Not to steal your thunder, for years I've been using a scrap block of plywood or hardwood (who among us doesn't have loads of 3/4" scrap!) held against the infeed end of my table saw fence (a Biesemeyer clone on my Grizzly cabinet saw) with a 6" Irwin QuicK Clamp.

One thing I'll add to this concerns safety. The third picture shows one key use of your block that promotes safe cross cutting using a miter gauge to hold the stock square (or a prescribed angle). Using the block to gauge the length of the cutoff is desireable to insure an exact length and as one moves the miter gauge forward with the stock, there is plenty of clearance between the end of the stock and the fence before it gets to the blade and thus binding is eliminated. It also allows one to use the accuracy of the fence to be used rapidly to set the length of cutoffs.
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
I would put some kind of pad on the end of the bolt so you don't damage your fence, & it could make for easier set up if the block was a true 1 inch thick (making it easier to set up the fence (simple math for my simple mind). I am pretty sure the Biesmeyer is 1". As always just my $.02 worth.

Tom,

I had a concern about the end of bolt scratching the fence too. I was thinking that perhaps I could just epoxy a T-Nut to the end of the bolt to form a pad. (Could also cement a pirce of cork to the flange of the t-nut as well.) Could thought on the thickness of the block too!:eusa_clap

Thanks for your suggestions.

Wayne
 
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