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After spending an hour in my highly organized shop, I found several articles on BLO.
It seems when you add mineral spirits to BLO it changes the effect of the driers (longer time to cure), as if a day between coats is not long enough.
I did find two artilces in FWW that made refernce to food safe finishes, tung oil (long drying time and really provides no protection for the wood), Waterlox Orinial Finish, Mineral Oil and linseed oil that does not include metallic driers. The other is Walnut Oil, supposed to be in the salad dressing aisle at your supermarket. The article says to apply 3 coats with two days drying time between each coat.
As to the other item, Watco/Danish oil finish would work well. I did my kitchen cabinents using it. I flooded the surface with the oil, kept and eye for dry spots (added more finish too them) and wiped it off. You need to check every 30 minutees or so to wipe off the areas that bleed to the surface.
Second coat was applied and rubbed with 320 wet/dry sandpaper and wiped down, check it for bleeding about once an hour. Let it dry several days and either apply another coat or apply some clear finish. I opted for a satin finish, I should say WE opted for the satin finish (you know how that is).
When you get them finished, I would like to see them.
Later,
sawman
It seems when you add mineral spirits to BLO it changes the effect of the driers (longer time to cure), as if a day between coats is not long enough.
I did find two artilces in FWW that made refernce to food safe finishes, tung oil (long drying time and really provides no protection for the wood), Waterlox Orinial Finish, Mineral Oil and linseed oil that does not include metallic driers. The other is Walnut Oil, supposed to be in the salad dressing aisle at your supermarket. The article says to apply 3 coats with two days drying time between each coat.
As to the other item, Watco/Danish oil finish would work well. I did my kitchen cabinents using it. I flooded the surface with the oil, kept and eye for dry spots (added more finish too them) and wiped it off. You need to check every 30 minutees or so to wipe off the areas that bleed to the surface.
Second coat was applied and rubbed with 320 wet/dry sandpaper and wiped down, check it for bleeding about once an hour. Let it dry several days and either apply another coat or apply some clear finish. I opted for a satin finish, I should say WE opted for the satin finish (you know how that is).
When you get them finished, I would like to see them.
Later,
sawman
M
McRabbet
I moved this to the Finishes Forum -- more likely to have some folks see it. BTW, H. Behlen make a very good finish for this use, appropriately called Salad Bowl Finish -- available through Klingspor's Woodworking Shop.
Rob
Rob
The best treatment for a cutting board is a mineral oil and paraffin mixture. Get some mineral oil in your pharmacy--the paraffin is in most supermarkets and/or hardware stores. Heat the mineral oil in a double boiler and then shave in some paraffin. Aim for about 5-6 parts mineral oil to one part paraffin but the ratio is not critical. Melt the two together. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set overnight. Do it again the next day and continue until no more is absorbed. Then let it set one last 12 hour period. Lightly scrape off any excess and buff with a dry rag.
Re-treat whenever the board begins to look dry.
Never put it in the dishwasher and just damp wipe to clean. If you need to totally submerge it, do it only for a few moments, then rinse and wipe dry.
This is the treatment found on commercial cutting boards and butcher blocks. It's totally non-toxic.
Re-treat whenever the board begins to look dry.
Never put it in the dishwasher and just damp wipe to clean. If you need to totally submerge it, do it only for a few moments, then rinse and wipe dry.
This is the treatment found on commercial cutting boards and butcher blocks. It's totally non-toxic.
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