So should I just stick with the 50amp breaker that I have now or should I still get the 100amp? I don't need 100amps, but the meter panel has a 100amps going to the house and a 100amps going into the garage and I am only using the 50amp breaker which is limiting me from the full 100amps, but again I don't need it, but was recommended by the electrician to get the 100amp breaker?????
What should I do???
Well, if you had chosen the right panel you would not even need the extra 'main' breaker for your subpanel. You can buy subpanels without main breakers (the 'real' main breaker is the 100A breaker located in your main panel). Sorry, I hate to add insult to injury!
If you have to purchase a new main breaker for your new subpanel then you really need to figure out what sort of loads you are likely to have concurrently in your shop. There is no issue with having a 100A breaker in your main panel feed a lesser breaker in your sub panel. However, you will need to make certain that the 50A breaker you have is actually rated for use as a main breaker (you are usually looking at 60A and above for that purpose).
I know a 50/60A main would be tight in my shop, especially during winter months -- my window AC/Heater draws about 17A @ 240 for 11-12k BTUs). For me the major loads would be: 1) AC/Heat (6A summer, 17A winter 240V), 2) 2HP Cyclone DC (12A 240V), 3) Ambient Air Cleaner (3A 120V), 4) Compressor (either 15A @ 120V or 25-30A @ 240V -- two compressors), 5) Bandsaw/Jointer (12A 240V), 6) DeWalt Planer (15A 120V), 7) Shop Vac (12A 120V), 8) Routers (10-15A 120V), 9) dehumidifier (IIRC 5-6A 120V), and 10) a few extra amps for main and emergency lighting. Not all of these would be run concurrently in a one-man shop, but there are combinations that would be awfully tight, if not overloaded, at 50A or 60A. If you do not have A/C or use electric for your heat then that helps a great deal (remember to future-proof your install, you may not have A/C now but if you will in the future then you should plan to accommodate it now).
All this said, however, that extra $30 for a 100A breaker typically pales in comparison to how much you will spend fully wiring wiring your shop. Even the cheaper breakers add up quickly as you start filling out your panel!
When you are ready to tackle shop lighting,
I like to remind everyone not to forget adequate emergency lighting if your shop lacks adequate windows or you routinely work in your shop after dark. There is nothing more dangerous than having the power go out while you are using a power tool and are forced to fumble in the dark feeling for a power switch to turn it off -- if the power comes back on a few seconds later are you confident that your hands and body are still safe of the bit/blade or kickback even after you failed to find that power switch in the dark? For that matter, as cluttered as many of our shops are (mine included), are you confident you could find your way to safety without the benefit of light in the event of an extended outtage (or knocking down your shop main breaker)?
HTH and Good Luck!
Enjoy your new shop.
