End Table, Need Advice

[Gofor]

Hi All. LOML wants some new end tables. I built the following proto-type out of pine (at least I got that done for Mother's Day!) so we can make sure the design, dimensions,etc are what we want. This is my first try at edge joining wood and building drawers (another reason for the proto-type)
Beings she would like the the final renditions (at least two and probably four) to be about the same lightness in color, what would be some good hardwood species to consider. I am thinking Ash, White Oak, or Maple. Any suggestions? This is Golden Oak oil based stain on pine with a rubbed poly topcoat.
Appreciate any comments/criticisms:lol::

 

[DaveO]

Wow, for your first try at edge jointing and drawers, you done real good :icon_thum That's a very nice prototype. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
For wood selection, I would second Ash, and up you Hickory, Pecan, and Birch. Birch might be the easiest, due to the availablitity of plywood (if you're gonna use it) although the solid stock is harder to come by. You might be able to do Birch ply and soft Maple solid stock and use a gel stain to even the woods out. My .02, Dave

 

[Gofor]

Thanks for the compliment. I hope not to use any ply in the final product. I am still looking for a reasonable good quality #5,6, or 7 hand plane to ease the edge jointing and flattening process (I did the top, doors and drawer front with a #4 and it was a challenge). The fact that I probably won't be starting with S4S next time will make it more so (Not that the S4S was either square or flat, but you work with what you gots to work with!) But heck, if it was easy everyone would be doin' it!:lol:

 

[DaveO]

You didn't say that you hand jointed at first, I am even more impressed.
Dave (feeling very unworthy)

 

[erasmussen]

Thats a really nice prototype:eusa_clap great:icon_thum drewer joints
Cant wait to see the real ones

 

[Ray Martin]

If the prototype has joinery that terrific, the final product will be incredible. Even the color of the pine came out nice. The prototype would make a nice gift too. Are those magazine racks on the back?

Ray

 

[D L Ames]

Go, great job on the end table. It is hard to believe that is only the prototype. You did and outstanding job hand jointing all of your stock and your DTs look great.

D L

 

[Monty]

Nice prototype ya got there!!! :icon_thum I think oak would be a good choice there. Just curious, have you considered putting some feet on it, or something to raise it up a little off the floor?

 

[McRabbet]

Go,

For the lightest color, I'd suggest soft maple or ash. Birch will come through with a somewhat redder coloration and oak, pecan or hickory will be somewhat darker. Ash doesn't have the nicest grain for this type project, so my best recommendation would be soft maple. I've done work in birch, too if you prefer a warmer tone.

Rob

 

[Terry]

WOW! What a Prototype. You did a remarkable job on it. My recommendation would be the Maple maybe if your up to it a Birds Eye Maple or Quilted Maple. With the talent you have, your wife should be pleased with the outcome with any type wood you decide. Can't wait to see the selection and the finished product. Good Luck! Terry:eusa_danc

 

[cpowell]

Go,

I think the piece looks very nice as is.

If you wanted to dress it up a little, I'd second Insom's idea and add feet. You may also frame the bottom edge of the side panels.

You should consider wood movement if the side and back panels will be solid glue-ups. They will expand/contract with the seasons and your construction must allow the solid pieces to move independently. You may consider using frame and panel construction with dadoes to float the panel edges.

Your prototype joints are tight and straight. Cab grade ply with solid edging would look beautiful and eliminate the movement issues.

If the finish on the final product looks like the prototype LOYL will be very happy with it, regardless of wood species you select.

Chuck

 

[skeeter]

Prototype is very nice. I really like the design. Whatever wood you use, it is sure to be impressive. I would go with maple with birds eye or curly top, but I just like the contrasts. Whatever you use, it's sure to look good.

 

[jmauldin]

Well, here's my 11/2 cents worth. By the way, greatjob on construction. and the design is good. Since you are going to use solid wood my preference would be cherry for a light color, Walnut for darker. I really don't like working in oak or ash, although I do it a lot. And I would use a gel stain to avoid blotching. (I spray nearly all my stains - alcohol).

If you hurry you can have these ready by Christmas! ! ! ! ! !
Jim in Mayberry

 

[Gofor]

WOW, Thanks for all the replys, ideas and compliments!! I'll try and catch all the questions:

Ray Martin: Yes, they are basically magazine racks (there is a 2" depth inside). The top on one is intended to hold TV remotes, etc, and the bottom is for whatever book the wife is readings plus her crossword puzzles. On this one they are attached with screws (I don't usually use metal fasteners but for the proto, I wanted to be able to adjust them as necessary). The final ones may have one or two depending on where it will be in the room.

Insomniac and C Powell: Feet are something I had not thought of, but I like the idea. I had originally intended to edge frame the bottom to compliment the top edge profile, but after building the carcass, realized that anything I put would be too fragile/narrow with the depth of the door and I was pretty much at max heighth so couldn't add a base. The next ones will have the edge and with the suggestion, I'll also relieve the centers to create feet on the corners. (I'll be raising the floor of the doored compartment and shortening the door to give more roomat teh bottom without increasing overall heighth.

Cpowell: The bottom, drawer compartment bottom and top support and back are all dadoed in this one. If I read you correct, if I use solid wood I will need to run the grain crosswise on these pieces to expand with the sides (sides having the grain running vertical) and just glue the center of each piece in the dado. Is this correct? or is the conventional approach to run the sides grain horizontal and the cross pieces fwd-aft? To go with frame and floating panels will probably mean another prototype but I'll run it past LOML. She'll probably say "Whichever is easiest" which really means "I'd like to have them THIS decade!"

JMauldin: I may try spraying alcohol stain. I was using on-hand supplies for this one but i realize there has to be a better way or better materials than minwax oil stain and their quickdry poly. What are the drawbacks of Ash that you don't like?
As for Christmas, that's no joke!! It took me a full day just to hand-cut the drawer dovetails! (and they really look better in the picture but don't tell anyone!)

Another "lesson learned" (synonym for screw up) was when using Lowe's Arauco plywood, surface it BEFORE cutting the dadoes. I didn't and then realized I would have to take off the top 1/16" on both sides to get past all the mill marks and surface texture defects, which would have made my dadoes 1/8" too wide. Thats why the plywood sections have so many noticeable stain "anomalies". And that was using a pre-stain sealer.

As for wood, SWMBO has already nixed red oak (sorry DaveO or I would have relieved you of most your stock!!) because she thinks it would be too "red', so that probably nixes cherry and birch as well. So, its looking like Ash or soft maple. Will soft maple be hard enough for the top which will see some abuse? At about (my calculations) 20bf per copy, I probably can't afford too exotic a wood for the overall, although a complimentary wood for top and maybe door/drawer is something that may be doable (good idea skeeter).

By the by, the drawer carcass is poplar. Will that need to be changed?

As you can see I am definitely a novice but am having a ball learnin'. Thanks again to all. Hey, is this a great forum or what!!:mrgreen:

and i just realized another "Lesson Learned'. I should have separated all the above into separate posts. Guess I'll never get my count up!!:BangHead:

Go

 

[jmauldin]

Okay, so scratch the cherry idea. As to the one you are leading toward, I would go with Ash if it is locally available and reasonable. Soft maple in my opinion would be too soft for the top. My reasons for not liking oak and ash is the grain pores. I generally fill the pores with grain filler so as to get a smoother finish. You can fill them with "finish", but to me that is too brittle a finish. Besides, it doesn't look right.
Good luck.
By the way, you wouldn't need to change the wood in the drawers unless you just want to. Of course, ash, with a 1/4" oak plywood bottom would look neat.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[cskipper]

You did a great job - and have gotten lots of good feedback. We make incorporate some of its features into the ones John is going to make. Please keep us posted about your progress.

 

[McRabbet]

I would advise you looking at the grain in Ash before you decide to use it -- it doesn't have anywhere the character of maple. You are putting a very significant investment in these pieces and I would agree with others that you should look for some figured maple (quilted or bird's eye) for the top and use soft maple for the balance. I would also recommend making raised panel sides to allow for wood movement since you are not using any plywood. Soft maple can also be used for your drawers and it is much harder than the poplar you used in the prototype -- it dovetails beautifully. Check the following Wood Strength Table -- Sugar Maple is "Hard Maple"; the others are "Soft Maple" -- it is still tough stuff.

Rob

 

[cpowell]

Go, You can use solid panels for sides, back, shelves so long as the shelves are floating in dadoes. I like the grain orientation the way you've done it (shelves oriented same as the top).

I would attach the interior panels (shelves) to the front face frame and let the rear float in Dadoes. Cut the interior panels a little bit short to allow for expansion/contraction. Assuming the panels are 3/4 thick and the dadoes are 3/8 inch deep, I'd allow 3/16 for expansion on the rear side (this is probably overkill but nobody will see it). The long grain expansion is negligible but allow 1/16th each side anyway. The gaps will be hidden in the rear/side dadoes. You don't need to attach the interior panels with glue or screws to the side or rear structure.

The side panels will be able to move freely. The top should be attached so it can expand in the cross grain direction. Use slotted holes for screws or route slots with angle clips (I like these) along the front and rear screw points. Screw into one side of the top then use slotted holes, with slots running in the direction of expansion/contraction, for the other side. (You may already be doing this, I couldn't tell from the pics).

Chuck

 

[sapwood]

Go, that's an awesome start.:icon_thum

I'd slap some latex paint on that sucker and sell it to Rooms To Go. Might be able to cover your upcoming wood costs. :mrgreen:

Admiringly,
Sapwood

 

[DaveO]

:icon_thum

I'd slap some latex paint on that sucker and sell it to Rooms To Go.


Sapwood

That's too high of quality for Rooms to Go. I don't think there is any particle board, thermofoil veneer or knock-down fasteners used it. And it would outlast their no interest payment plan time period. :slap:

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Dave