Dust Mask

[sapwood]

This weekend I'm taking a finishing class given by Jeff Jewitt (ok, it's a gloat too :eusa_shhh). Since he will be demoeing various finishes I need a dust mask. Obviously I've already suffered significant brain damage over the years, but late in life I've become more protective of what I've got left :lol:

Appreciate suggestions with the reminder time constraints will probably limit me to a quick run to the BORG. Oh yeah, did I say I'm CHEAP????

Thanks in advance,
Roger

 

[Travis Porter]

I bought the around $30 one at the borg made by 3M. It actually works well for me, and I believe is approved for VOC's.

Yes, I know quite well you are cheap. A dust mask wouldn't cut it.

 

[NZAPP1]

SO that is what happened:rolf: :rolf: I also have one from 3M for VOC that works great

 

[cpowell]

Ditto on the 3M mask from the Borg. It works fine. Keep in mind the VOCs will render the filter useless over time so you'll need to get a few extra cartridges for replacement. The mask will NOT seal over facial hair (a beard).

You can keep the mask in a ziploc bag when not in use to extend the life. I do that since the fumes are in my shop long after I've sprayed and left the shop. If you can smell the fumes with the mask on and fitted to your face then the cartridges are shot and should be replaced.

Chuck

 

[sapwood]

Thanks folks! A rare display of unaminity ccasion1

To the BORG I go for my 3M VOC protection. The beard may compound safety issues though. Shaving my beard may yield results that are unsafe for children and women to view :eusa_thin

Roger

 

[chris99z71]

Another thing to consider...
The normal P95 and N95 masks are not designed to provide protection from organic vapors, merely dust particles (P95 or N95) and aerosols (P95 only). The major difference between aerosols and vapors is that a vapor is a gas where an aerosol is a suspended droplet. You can filter out a droplet, but a gas needs to be chemically removed.
P95:

N95:

The N95 mask above is available from the BORG for $19/box of 20 and the P95 is slightly more (if you can find it at the BORG).
For any kind of protection from orgainc vapors, you need something a little more advanced and expensive.
This model is available at the BORG for $24 (item # 421146) and has replaceable cartridges.
"Protects from Lacquer, Mist, Organic Vapor. Use with Replacement Cartridges. Meets NIOSH & OSHA requirements"

 

[sapwood]

Thanks Chris, that's pretty similiar to what I found. Interestingly, both Slowes and Home Despot only had one brand . . . AOSafety :roll:

Roger

 

[Gofor]

Short respirator primer:
Look for the NIOSH rating: Those letters and numbers mean something. (If it doesn't have a NIOSH rating, don't waste your money)
For dusts and mists, you have 95 -removes 95% of the particulates, 99 - removes 99 %, and 100 -removes 99.97% (commonly known as HEPA filters). For anyone with impaired lung function, go with the 99 or preferable the 100.
Preceding that number is a letter - N, R, or P. These have to do with oil resistance: N is not oil resistant, R is partially resistant, and P is oil resistant.
The other letters have to do with the vapors: The one most commonly needed by woodworkers is "OV", which stands for Organic Vapors. Other letters you may see are Cl (Chlorine), Fl (Flourine), HCl (Hydrogen Chloride), HS (Hydrogen Suflide), etc. These respirators will come with a paper explaining the letters and specify what that particular respirator/filter can protect you from if used properly.
Vapor respirators will have an activated charcoal element to them. They should remained sealed when not being used as the humidity in the air will degrade the charcoal over a period of time. (A zip-loc bag works fine)
If you have a breathing impairment such as asthma or emphysema, and are planning to use a tight-fitting respirator (ie, the rubber or silicone ones with replaceable filters) I strongly recommend you have your doctor perform a pulmonary function test prior to use to make sure you can get enough air through it.
Disclaimer: I am not a doctor. I was the certified respirator use trainer/fit tester for an acft industrial paint shop for 8 years, required to meet the OSHA standards. We used disposables, tight-fittings cannister types, and air-supplied full-face respirators, depending on the task.
There's a lot more to it, including determining if the respirator is fitting and operating correctly and knowing when to toss it, so if anyone wants more info, PM me or I will answer in open forum, as you wish.
Hope this helps
Go
PS: Rodger, the beard will impair the fit, but wearing one will greatly reduce the intake of bad stuff. A little vaseline or water soluble gel around the edge will improve the effectiveness for a temporary improvement if you feel it is necessary. If its a disposable, you will probably have more leakage around the bridge of the nose than through the beard, anyway. If you are spraying finishes or have poor ventilation, get one rated for OV as well as the dust rating.

 

[sapwood]

Whoa Go!

Indeed that is a great primer. Thanks for taking the time to share the info.

Roger