Dovetail router bit choice

[Drew Roy]

:wmad: So earlier today I am in the process of running 18 dovetail boxes and a fairly new Bosch dovetail bit breaks!! There is Frued in the router now but I will pose the question to the masses..What dovetail bit have you found that will last????

Thanks in advance,

 

[Joe Scharle]

8mm is stronger than 1/4", but 1/2" is stronger than both. That said, I use a Woodrat so I can use any bit, but most jigs require a proprietary bit.
I've used Freud, MLCS, CMT and Leigh with equal success. Woodrat long profile bits WILL snap at the neck if pushed too hard!

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Drew, if you're looking for a brand name, I've been using Whiteside bits for quite awhile and been very happy w/ them. They have enough carbide that they can be sharpened several times. Back in the 80's and 90's I used some "off" brands and wasn't very happy w/ them.

As Joe mentioned, there are other brands that folks have used w/ equal success and satisfaction.

HTH

Bill

 

[red]

8mm shank Leigh bits. Any bit will break if pushed too hard. You need to let the bit do the work.

Red

 

[Drew Roy]

Well fellas the Freud hung in there so I was able to finish. Bill I am familiar with with the Whiteside bits and I agree with the other commentators, you have got to be nice while pushing the smaller bits. Before my next batch I will have some 1/2 inch shanks on hand.
So we will see where this winds up in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks for your continued input,

 

[eyekode]

I don't have a dovetail jig but I have broken a dovetail bit when routing sliding dovetails. For that task it helps a lot to first route with a narrow straight bit to remove a large portion of the waste. Not sure if this would help with a dovetail jig or if it is more trouble then it is worth...
Salem

 

[JimD]

I am getting ready to use my Harbor Freight half blind jig, with a Grizzly 7/16 spacing template, to route 3 large drawers (3 feet wide, almost 2 feet deep, 7, 7 7/8 and 8 3/4 tall). I dovetail front and back and I use baltic birch plywood for the sides and back. To minimize splintering of the plywood I back cut a lot. So I abuse the bit. I can only use a 1/4 shank due to the design of the dovetail jig. The neck down is where the cheap ones break. I have a CMT bit in the router right now. It is getting a little dull, I hope it finishes these drawers. It has done a couple dozen drawers so I've gotten good service from it. If it breaks, I will probably buy another CMT. I was not sure about this brand when I bought this bit but I am now convinced they make good bits. I have snapped cheaper brands (like MLCS which I like for most bits) in less than one drawer.

Jim

 

[Joe Scharle]

You can put a keen edge back on carbide DT bits with a few strokes on a diamond paddle.

 

[Drew Roy]

Jim, since the Harbor frieght comes with 1/2" plate why the 7/16" plate? Unless its because you are going sub fractional (7/8) instead of whole inch. I am going to order up a couple differnet Grizzly bits (I have some of their shaper cutters and some other router bits) and see where they get me.
I did, to cut down on splintering, run my dovetail bit across the cut face first to score the material (soft maple) then a roughing pass then a finish pass which seemed to work very nicely. The drawers are together and will be routed and finish sanded this afternoon.

Time to get back to work,:saw:

 

[tar1heel]

A few years ago I had a CMT dovetail bit snap off and go flying across my shop...fortunately I wasn't in the line of fire.

CMT had me send then the remains for analysis and they gave me a new bit. Since then I have used Freud with my Leigh jig with no problem.

 

[JimD]

Drew Roy,

The HF dovetail jig is identical to a lot of other jigs and is less expensive. The template guide is aluminum but it is cast and not machined (at least mine is). So it is not as "nice" to use as templates with machined fingers. And I think I see a little difference in the resulting joints.

I usually use plans from Woodsmith which assume 7/8 increments in drawer heights. I modify the plans anyway so I could switch to one inch spacing but I don't love the HF template. I have used it but typically do not.

Even with a "good" one inch or wider template guide, you have to route on both edges of the guide. I don't love that but that is the smallest issue.

I got much less than a full day in the shop yesterday but I got the remaining pieces for my drawers cut to size, all the drawers routed, the fronts rough sanded, and the inside of one finish sanded (much easier before assembly) and that drawer glued together. My old CMT bit is still working fine.

Now I need to get a bit more time in the shop to do more sanding (yuck), and assembly. Then it will be time to pull out the spray rig and finish this dresser.

Jim

 

[Joe Scharle]

I've got one of those from MLCS and it was a little rough too. I touched it up with 100 grit on my ROS and by hand where I felt some roughness inside the guides. Works good! Mounted to a block.

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