DeWalt 735 Planer - Question

[W Burton]

I have had my DeWalt 735 Planer for about 12 years now, and have had nothing but great results with it. I consider it one of the better made power tools I own. Recently, though, when I changed out the blades there were a lot of wood chips inside, all around the motor and the blower housing. I started out using this planer with a hose that fed into a garbage can, and the blower on the planer would eject the chips very efficiently - there was never an accumulation inside the planer. Now, I have a 5" drop off a Grizzly cyclone that has always pulled the chips out without any problems.

I can't tell where the chips are getting out from where they are supposed to be, and how they are getting to where they are not supposed to be. I took off the blade shroud and removed the fan housing and everything looked okay.

Has anyone else had this issue?

 

[SubGuy]

I have the same one. Never noticed more than a fine dust layer on mine. Any pictures?

 

[Ken Massingale]

If you haven't already, remove the housing from the internal blower. Occasionally chips can clog the housing, especially if something like ply has been run through the planer.

 

[W Burton]

If you haven't already, remove the housing from the internal blower. Occasionally chips can clog the housing, especially if something like ply has been run through the planer.

Hi Ken,

I did remove the housing that fits over the blade assembly, and then took off the outer half of the blower housing. I couldn't see anything that was broken or loose. But, the housing isn't square to the motor. I am wondering how that got off kilter, and if that is the culprit.

Zach, here are a couple photos showing the chip accumulation and the gap between the housing and the motor:

 

[Tarhead]

Like yours, mine has a pretty good airflow when unrestricted into an open barrel. Could it be hitting some resistance connected to the cyclone? Only so much air can go through the piping, cyclone and (I assume) the filter before it starts to create a back pressure.

 

[ehpoole]

It looks as though you may no longer have a good seal between the two halves of the blower and are experiencing elevated backpressure on the exhaust side causing waste to escape (internally) from the blower rather than properly exiting the blower. If necessary, you may be able to apply an extremely thin bead of RTV sealant to the blower housing half to create a makeshift gasket (but allow it to cure before reassembling) -- but only if you can not close up the gap(s) any other way. You will also want to address the source of excessive back pressure on the exhaust if it was more than an accidental run with closed blast gates (for example). If the hose is too long then either shorten it or increase the diameter to reduce backpressure.

Out of curiosity, any chance you ran the planer with the blast gates closed or the DC turned off at the time, as that would certainly generate a lot of backpressure?

That said, your chips look more like sawdust than chips in the photo. By chance, might your blades be getting overly dull? I ask because the waste normally resembles shavings, such as one sees from a Jointer, unless you are planing in infinitesimal increments.

 

[W Burton]

It looks as though you may no longer have a good seal between the two halves of the blower and are experiencing elevated backpressure on the exhaust side causing waste to escape (internally) from the blower rather than properly exiting the blower. If necessary, you may be able to apply an extremely thin bead of RTV sealant to the blower housing half to create a makeshift gasket (but allow it to cure before reassembling) -- but only if you can not close up the gap(s) any other way. You will also want to address the source of excessive back pressure on the exhaust if it was more than an accidental run with closed blast gates (for example). If the hose is too long then either shorten it or increase the diameter to reduce backpressure.

Out of curiosity, any chance you ran the planer with the blast gates closed or the DC turned off at the time, as that would certainly generate a lot of backpressure?

That said, your chips look more like sawdust than chips in the photo. By chance, might your blades be getting overly dull? I ask because the waste normally resembles shavings, such as one sees from a Jointer, unless you are planing in infinitesimal increments.

It is really easy to tell if the blast gate is closed when the planer goes on -- kind of like a vacuum cleaner when it gets stuck to the floor. It has not had anything run through it with the blast gate closed or the DC off, but it has been turned on before for just a couple seconds before I noticed the closed gate. Could that back pressure possibly have caused something to leak? Hmmm, interesting idea.

The outlet on the planer is not that large, but then exits to a 4 inch fitting. I have it going immediately to a 5" blast gate and a 5" drop off a 7" main that goes to my DC. I have taken the flex drop off, and it has great suction -- and I have filled the DC chip bin numerous times from the planer. I have had this same set-up for a couple years now, and only recently started having the chips inside the planer. The DC is a Grizzly G0440 2HP cyclone, btw.

I was watching it run again last night, and it seemed like there was some leakage actually coming out of the planer on the motor side of the blower housing, and then getting sucked back in through the vent opening near the motor. The vast majority of the chips are making it to the DC. Since the stuff inside the planer is a bit more dusty, could it be some of the smaller particles getting sucked back in?

The blades were just changed a few weeks ago, and still are cutting well.

You have me wondering now if that brief backpressure from turning it on before remembering to open the gate may have created a leak somewhere. And wondering how to locate it.

 

[Canuck]

By comparison, here is a couple of pics I took of mine this A.M., Bill.

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Based on the gap between the blower housing and motor, mine doesn't look completely square either. (Maybe an optical illusion.)

I have experienced a similar issue with chip build up "under the hood" as well. It really became evident when raising and lowering the head. It would seem to bind at around the 3/4" mark. When I opened up the cover, chips didn't blow out effectively and would really pack into the corners on the chain/sprockets.

I just figured that I had let my separator get a little too full and the planer blower had nowhere else for the chips to exit. :BangHead:

Wayne

 

[W Burton]

Thanks, Wayne. Perhaps it is just the design that gives that non square illusion.

Here's a video I took that may show what is causing the problem, but I still don't know why. It looks like chips are coming out below/beside the blower, and some are getting sucked back in the opening. When I removed that little cover, there is a bunch of dust in there.

[video=youtube;vV0JG5hWK3o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV0JG5hWK3o[/video]

 

[ehpoole]

You have me wondering now if that brief backpressure from turning it on before remembering to open the gate may have created a leak somewhere. And wondering how to locate it.

Unless you actually ran lumber through it while the blast gate was closed I doubt very much if that damaged anything -- not like I haven't made the same mistake myself a few times in the past (I also own an 8yr old DW735). I was mostly just thinking out loud since we are trying to come up with an explanation -- one never knows when one random thought may spark another.

But there does seem to be a lot of waste squeezing past the blower housing perimeter where the two halves meet and I suspect that is where the waste is entering the interior space from. This perimeter is also where the air (and waste) are at maximum pressure so it is also where waste is most likely to try and escape -- hence my suggestion of possibly using a very thin coat of RTV sealant (allow to fully cure before reassembling) to create a makeshift gasket and improve the seal.

One other thought does occur to me and that is the possibility that the fan impeller may no longer be rigidly secured to the shaft (that is, it may be spinning/stalling somewhat freely on the shaft under load) which would greatly reduce its efficiency at vacuuming up waste as it would then depend largely upon the vacuum of your DC (which may be far less than the DW735 was designed to require for adequate waste collection). Often these impellers are all plastic (it has been too long since I inspected mine to recall for certain) and often the impeller is meant to be press-fit onto the motor shaft as an interference fit such that as the plastic ages the plastic may eventually split and the impeller will no longer be rigidly secured to the shaft (but may otherwise look fine). Just another thing to check. The happens quite a lot with press-fit plastic gears as well, in my experience.

 

[JackLeg]

I've had that situation and in my case found it to be a hole in the shroud. A knot sometimes will come loose in a piece being planed and break the shroud. Just my 2 cw.

 

[ehpoole]

I've had that situation and in my case found it to be a hole in the shroud. A knot sometimes will come loose in a piece being planed and break the shroud. Just my 2 cw.

That is certainly an interesting possibility that likely would not have occurred to me and worth the OP investigating. I assume you used JB Weld, or similar, to patch your hole afterwards, or did you have to order a replacement?

 

[W Burton]

I've had that situation and in my case found it to be a hole in the shroud. A knot sometimes will come loose in a piece being planed and break the shroud. Just my 2 cw.

Bingo.

It is a small hole in the blower housing that I didn't see the first time I took it apart.



I used an epoxy on the outside to seal the hole, but I am still getting dust leaking out when I reassembled. I took it apart one more time, and the wall of the housing is paper thin in that area. There is a very tiny tongue and groove that must match up along the two halves of the housing, and this part is on the back bottom, which is almost inaccessible when reassembling. Everything seems to be aligned properly, but if anything, the dust leak is even worse after my epoxy repair. I have a feeling that the long term solution may be to replace that housing.

Thanks, everyone, for helping me figure this out.

 

[ehpoole]

You may wish to try reinforcing the area with some tape to see if it helps with your issue. I would probably try electrical tape first since it can stretch and confirm to the shape. If the hole us in an accessible location, then you could even tape across the two sections to seal the hole much more securely, but that, obviously, will not be possible if the hole is somewhere you can not reach when assembled.

If you have a Dremel and a cutoff wheel you could carefully recreate the missing lip on your epoxy repair and then file everything smooth and level when done. That may allow for a better seal than presently available. Otherwise you can still go the route of replacement if need be.

 

[W Burton]

You may wish to try reinforcing the area with some tape to see if it helps with your issue. I would probably try electrical tape first since it can stretch and confirm to the shape. If the hole us in an accessible location, then you could even tape across the two sections to seal the hole much more securely, but that, obviously, will not be possible if the hole is somewhere you can not reach when assembled.

If you have a Dremel and a cutoff wheel you could carefully recreate the missing lip on your epoxy repair and then file everything smooth and level when done. That may allow for a better seal than presently available. Otherwise you can still go the route of replacement if need be.

I did try some electrical tape over the epoxy area, but the area is just about impossible to reach for getting tape across both sections. Plus, the problem area is adjacent to one of the clips, which makes it difficult to work with. I went ahead and ordered the housing, so I hope I will be able to get the fan off the shaft now. In 12 years, the only thing I have done is change blades on the thing, so I don't mind getting a part for it.

Thanks for taking the time to help me troubleshoot this.

 

[patlaw]

Bill, where did you order the part from? I'm order parts for my (new-to-me) Porter Cable 690LR Type 2 router. It is encouraging to be able to easily find the part and get it at a reasonable price. The big problem with buying small parts is shipping charges. 1800toolrepair seems to have the most reasonable prices and shipping charges. Who do you use?

 

[ehpoole]

I did try some electrical tape over the epoxy area, but the area is just about impossible to reach for getting tape across both sections. Plus, the problem area is adjacent to one of the clips, which makes it difficult to work with. I went ahead and ordered the housing, so I hope I will be able to get the fan off the shaft now. In 12 years, the only thing I have done is change blades on the thing, so I don't mind getting a part for it.

Thanks for taking the time to help me troubleshoot this.

I have not had a chance to see how it is all assembled, but you will likely have to pull the motor to remove the impeller. Removing the impeller will likely require a small pulley puller or slide hammer if it is done as an interference fit, then use a piece of pipe of slightly larger diameter than he motor shaft to hammer the impeller back into place when you are ready to reassemble. You can remove the main drive belt from the motor through the access panel on the side of the planer, which should remove the tension on the motor before you unbolt it from its mount.

To play things safe, if it does not add too much to the bill, I would probably go ahead and order a spare impeller just in case the existing one splits while you are fixing things. Murphy generally does not strike if you are well prepared.

I would offer you the use of my shop and tools for your repair, if you do not already have everything you need, but I'm a pretty good drive from you.

 

[W Burton]

Bill, where did you order the part from? I'm order parts for my (new-to-me) Porter Cable 690LR Type 2 router. It is encouraging to be able to easily find the part and get it at a reasonable price. The big problem with buying small parts is shipping charges. 1800toolrepair seems to have the most reasonable prices and shipping charges. Who do you use?

Hi Mike,

I found the housing in stock at ereplacementparts.com. I have ordered parts several times from toolpartsdirect.com, but they showed this part not in stock. This is my first time with ereplacementparts, so we'll see how it goes.

 

[W Burton]

I have not had a chance to see how it is all assembled, but you will likely have to pull the motor to remove the impeller. Removing the impeller will likely require a small pulley puller or slide hammer if it is done as an interference fit, then use a piece of pipe of slightly larger diameter than he motor shaft to hammer the impeller back into place when you are ready to reassemble. You can remove the main drive belt from the motor through the access panel on the side of the planer, which should remove the tension on the motor before you unbolt it from its mount.

To play things safe, if it does not add too much to the bill, I would probably go ahead and order a spare impeller just in case the existing one splits while you are fixing things. Murphy generally does not strike if you are well prepared.

I would offer you the use of my shop and tools for your repair, if you do not already have everything you need, but I'm a pretty good drive from you.

Thanks, Ethan. I just might be sending you a PM for some advice once the part arrives. I haven't really looked at the motor and shaft yet, so once I go into it again, it's good to have an idea what to expect. I appreciate all your advice.

 

[Hmerkle]

Bill,
If you can, take a LOT of pictures or video if you have the capability - I searched and see NOTHING about blower motor or fan replacement!!!

And as I always say (to myself) I CAN"T be the ONLY one who has had this problem!!!