DC Auto-Gates **w/pic**

[Alan in Little Washington]

I just received the pneumatic air valves I got off Ebay, so will be working on my automatic blast gates.

The valves are currently ganged together in a manifold but can be broken down into individual units. They have 110V coils so I will power them directly from the tools. I will likely need to use a resistor as a voltage divider on the 220V machines.

I am still working on the actuators, like the prototype at the left side of the picture. I could buy actuators, but haven't seen ones with the right throw and at the right (cheap!) price yet.

In operation, when I turn on a machine, machine power will cause the solenoid air valve to open and send shop compressed air via 1/4" PE tubing to a pneumatic cylinder which will be mounted on to open the gate. When power (and air) are secured, a spring will close the gate. A magnetic switch will also be mounted on the blast gate which will start the DC- but will not be wired to stop it, to avoid rapidly cycling the DC.

Stay tuned . . .

 

[Bas]

Super cool design Alan. Using compressed air is ingenious, I've come across designs that use servo motors but this makes a lot more sense.

Now, if you could rig something that would automatically turn the saw off if you're about to cut a board too short, that would be something!

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Super cool design Alan. Using compressed air is ingenious, I've come across designs that use servo motors but this makes a lot more sense.

Now, if you could rig something that would automatically turn the saw off if you're about to cut a board too short, that would be something!

Now that would be the bomb! I keep coming up with all these tinkering projects, while my WW ones are not getting done!

 

[McRabbet]

Looks like you're having loads of fun! Can't wait to see more...

 

[michaelgarner]

Alan you kill me. I think I need to sell all of my worldly possessions, purchase a monk robe and sit outside of your house in the lotus position until you accept me as a pupil. Where do you get all of these Jedi tricks from? What magic WW book do you have? I must not be in the inner circle. :rotflm: Just kidding bro. I have to tell you friend you must have one of the coolest shops period.

 

[Jim Murphy]

Okay Alan...

When you get this rig running, it won't be YOU SUCK, it will be


You Blow! :gar-La;

 

[MikeL]

The talent and creativity of the NCWW members is amazing. I don't know how you do what you do, but I can certainly appreciate it! :icon_thum

 

[scsmith42]

Alan, that is way cool! Can't wait to see the finished product.

Scott

 

[mcoston2]

Now that is going to be way cool. Can't wait to see the finished product.
:icon_thum

 

[Jon]

Thats pretty cool. Will it be very hard to do ?

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Thats pretty cool. Will it be very hard to do ?

We shall see????

First I need to tweak the actuator- I have a working, but unrefined model. I am going to try a different piston and still need to add a return spring.

As you saw in the pic in the first post, the solenoid valves are made to be part of a manifold. They have a number of ports running through them. In order to use them individually, I need to connect to one side port and have the exhaust ports open on one side, but the others need to be blanked off. I'll either use some aluminum or plexiglass to make blank-out plates. One side has O-rings but the other will need a gasket. It shouldn't be too hard to seal since I think I will only be using around 20 PSI.

Here is one of the valves removed from the manifold. I need to add an air fitting to the oblong port in the middle which is the pressure inlet and need openings for the other two large (exhaust) ports. I will need to study the operational diagram- new kind of symbology for me- in order to determine what I can and can't blank out.

Here is the end cap I removed. The inlet air fitting is in the center on the back (the brass is just visible through the port). You can see the threaded areas in the other two large ports where the exhaust mufflers mounted. Since all the valves were ganged together in a single manifold, there is only one left and one right end cap- for 10 valves.

Here is the other side of the end cap showing the brass air inlet fitting and the two exhaust mufflers. Two other threaded ports that were plugged are also visible. (The previous pic was taken after I removed the mufflers which are still visible in this pic)