Need to build newer and bigger xcut sled. What do y'all think: fence in the fron or reqr of the sled; what is "ideal " size of the base; one runner or two? Am cutting panels about 20x20 on Unisaw with outfeed table and extra support to the left of the saw. Qny input greatly appreciated.
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For larger panels I like the "Norm" style sled that only has one runner and a fence on the front. I don't think these are as accurate as the dual runner style that is referenced off of the back fence instead but for larger panels I don't think this is a big deal.
The way I made my last one is as follows:
1) mill a 11/32 x 3/4 strip of hardwood for the runner (just a little bit less than the depth of the miter slot)
2) put double stick tape on the runner
3) place the runner in the miter slot with something underneath it to raise it a little proud of the table top (1/16?)
4) place a piece of ply (20x36?) over the runner. The ply must overlap the blade by a hair. It will be cut flush by the blade in the end. And try to make the ply square to the blade.
5) take the ply off carefully and attach the runner with glue. I have done this a couple ways and have never been 100% happy
. Last time I drilled pilot holes and screwed it down. Then unscrewed it, applied glue and screwed it back. I also set it back in the miter slot to dry.
6) after it has dried run the sled over the blade. This is your reference edge.
7) Drill some 1/4" holes approximately square to the edge of the sled. Flip it over and recess the holes and put in some hurricane nuts.
8 ) get a good reference edge on a piece of hardwood using a jointer. The hardwood should be the length of the sled. This will be used as the fence.
9) use the holes in the sled to mark the center point for holes in the fence. Drill 3/8" holes at the marks in the fence.
10) attach the fence to the sled via 1/4" bolts and washers. Square the fence to the edge of the sled and tighten it down.
Good luck!
The way I made my last one is as follows:
1) mill a 11/32 x 3/4 strip of hardwood for the runner (just a little bit less than the depth of the miter slot)
2) put double stick tape on the runner
3) place the runner in the miter slot with something underneath it to raise it a little proud of the table top (1/16?)
4) place a piece of ply (20x36?) over the runner. The ply must overlap the blade by a hair. It will be cut flush by the blade in the end. And try to make the ply square to the blade.
5) take the ply off carefully and attach the runner with glue. I have done this a couple ways and have never been 100% happy
. Last time I drilled pilot holes and screwed it down. Then unscrewed it, applied glue and screwed it back. I also set it back in the miter slot to dry.6) after it has dried run the sled over the blade. This is your reference edge.
7) Drill some 1/4" holes approximately square to the edge of the sled. Flip it over and recess the holes and put in some hurricane nuts.
8 ) get a good reference edge on a piece of hardwood using a jointer. The hardwood should be the length of the sled. This will be used as the fence.
9) use the holes in the sled to mark the center point for holes in the fence. Drill 3/8" holes at the marks in the fence.
10) attach the fence to the sled via 1/4" bolts and washers. Square the fence to the edge of the sled and tighten it down.
Good luck!
Two runners
I generally follow the same process as eyekode, learning some other pointers at a class years ago in Atlanta, at Highland Hardware:
-I use two runners, and I use prefab metal ones, as I found that wooden ones shrank and expanded too much in my area, becoming sticky or loose, causing poor cuts.
-I also use two runners because it seems to be more precise, and holds that precision over time, no matter how I bang around the sled.
-I use the double stick tape on the runners, lay the plywood on the runners, carefully pull up the sheet, mark the holes on the metal runners (which isn't really necessary, but confirms that either doesn't slip during the attaching process), and screw them down. I don't pull them off and glue the runners down, every time I have ever done that only messes up the alignment.
-I put a front strengthener on the sled.
-Then put the sled on the table, run up the blade, and cut the base almost all the way to the back.
-I then put a thick, high fence on the rear, with only one screw on one end. Then, I use a plastic engineering 90 degree triangle to square up the fence to the cut line. Clamp the fence to the plywood, as it will slip if you don't. Then drill a sloppy hole in the plywood at the other end and attach a screw through to the fence.
-Make a cut on the sled on a board, which should be down the previously cut in the plywood. Slide the board down the fence a little and draw a fine pencil line along the edge of the board. Flip the board over to see if it lines up with the line. If not, adjust the fence by adjusting the sloppy screw until a square cut is accomplished, which is when the board edge lines up line when flipped over.
-apply more screws to hold the fence in place, making sure all kept clear of the blade path.
Good luck.
I generally follow the same process as eyekode, learning some other pointers at a class years ago in Atlanta, at Highland Hardware:
-I use two runners, and I use prefab metal ones, as I found that wooden ones shrank and expanded too much in my area, becoming sticky or loose, causing poor cuts.
-I also use two runners because it seems to be more precise, and holds that precision over time, no matter how I bang around the sled.
-I use the double stick tape on the runners, lay the plywood on the runners, carefully pull up the sheet, mark the holes on the metal runners (which isn't really necessary, but confirms that either doesn't slip during the attaching process), and screw them down. I don't pull them off and glue the runners down, every time I have ever done that only messes up the alignment.
-I put a front strengthener on the sled.
-Then put the sled on the table, run up the blade, and cut the base almost all the way to the back.
-I then put a thick, high fence on the rear, with only one screw on one end. Then, I use a plastic engineering 90 degree triangle to square up the fence to the cut line. Clamp the fence to the plywood, as it will slip if you don't. Then drill a sloppy hole in the plywood at the other end and attach a screw through to the fence.
-Make a cut on the sled on a board, which should be down the previously cut in the plywood. Slide the board down the fence a little and draw a fine pencil line along the edge of the board. Flip the board over to see if it lines up with the line. If not, adjust the fence by adjusting the sloppy screw until a square cut is accomplished, which is when the board edge lines up line when flipped over.
-apply more screws to hold the fence in place, making sure all kept clear of the blade path.
Good luck.
This is a single runner (Incra) I use for larger panels/slabs. The 3 finger holes allow just a little more gripping area and to hang it onto the wall. It happens to be Melamine because I happened to have some extra. The veneered panel on the sled is 18 X 42 and the sled underneath is 24 X 37.
M
McRabbet
Here is a sled that I believe incorporates some of the very best features that most woodworkers will find very useful. It is the Super Sled by John Nixon of Eagle Lake Woodworking. It is a straightforward unit to build and offers many excellent features.
Wow~! Now that looks like a Sled worth Building. All the others looked good for this or that, but that Super Sled Covers multiple jigs.
Thanks for the Link and Thanks for the Question weelis
Which do you need, a panel cutter, or a cross cut sled? A panel cutter has one runner, and is cut off on the end by the blade. A sled can have either one or two runners, and spans the blade. I routinely use my NYW panel cutter to cut 24 X 36 end panels for base cabinets, along with other parts. . My runner is HDPE, milled ( in lunch box planer) to fit snugly in miter slot. I have got some 6061, 0.375" X 0.750" aluminum coming next week from Online Metals to make some runners. I also ordered, from Small Parts, some nylon set screws (10-32) to make bar fit to the slot. Kreg sells a miter bar,along with Peachtree, and Rockler, FYI.
I have used HDPE, UHMW-PE, Oak, aluminum for sled runners. My favorite by far is 3/8" x 3/4" cold rolled steel. Fits perfectly, slides smoothly (much more so than aluminum and PE), and lasts longer than hardwood. Can be peened along one edge for a tighter fit.
If you make runners from anything that will wear, set the runner into a dado before you attach it and before you align the fence. That way you can replace the runner and the sled will still be dialed in.
If you make runners from anything that will wear, set the runner into a dado before you attach it and before you align the fence. That way you can replace the runner and the sled will still be dialed in.
Alan, can you recommend a place to buy cold rolled steel runners (my G0691 just came in and I need a new sled )?
Edit: I just did a search and found this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8910k178/=4ll4av
Looks like ~17$ for a 6 foot section. Pretty cheap! (but didn't look at shipping yet).
Any Raleigh/Apex local places for buying steel? I have also been thinking about welding up a mobile base and don't want to pay HD prices
)?Edit: I just did a search and found this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8910k178/=4ll4av
Looks like ~17$ for a 6 foot section. Pretty cheap! (but didn't look at shipping yet
).Any Raleigh/Apex local places for buying steel? I have also been thinking about welding up a mobile base and don't want to pay HD prices
Alan, can you recommend a place to buy cold rolled steel runners (my G0691 just came in and I need a new sled
Edit: I just did a search and found this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8910k178/=4ll4av
Looks like ~17$ for a 6 foot section. Pretty cheap! (but didn't look at shipping yet
Any Raleigh/Apex local places for buying steel? I have also been thinking about welding up a mobile base and don't want to pay HD prices
My brother sent it to me from CA! Even with shipping, that was much cheaper than paying McMaster-Carr or WW retailer prices. You might need to buy it in a 10' length which is not a problem because you can use it for all your jigs. Check out metal suppliers or metal fabricators.
Dillon Supply over in Raleigh (near Wurth aka Raleigh Hardwood) is a local steel distributor. Be aware all they sell are full lengths, which vary from 20' to 24' depending upon the product. But they will (for a fee) cut into managable lengths. Check with Online Metals.
Alan,
I just had to rebuild my panel cutting sled to fit my new saw and I cut a dado to receive the runner. This is much better than the process I had used before that relied on double stick tape (note: still need to use this for the second runner on a 2 runner sled but it is not needed for a one runner sled). Especially when using hardwoods or UHMW-PE that wants to twist or bulge when screwed.
Thanks again!
Salem
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