Craftsman Dovetail Jig

[lwhughes149]

I am looking for someone who has a Craftsman Dovetail jig. Mine is secondhand so I don't know the age, would guess 10 to 15 years old. I am having a problem making the setup. I have the manual. It refers to set up with Sears models. My thought was that dovetail jigs were somewhat the same, bushings would work on all models and dovetail router bits would be compatible with most if not all routers. Some may remember that I have made many dovetail drawers. What you didn't know was that my setup worked but eventually burnt up my bit thus putting me in the position I am in now. I am looking for someone who has that jig and can tell me what I am doing wrong.

 

[Jim Hancock]

I too have this fine piece of 'Craftsman'. I have modified my setup since I am not using the Craftsman router, finding the PC router a tad better. The mod is to use PC bushings modified (ground down) to work with the Craftsman jig. I have only used the CRaftsman bit so far and I have not burned it up, but I did read of a tip to first use a straight bit to hog out the bulk of the material, then go back with the dovetail bit to finish off the cuts.

The reason I am not using either of the two Craftsman routers any longer is the fact that they are junk and broke/siezed under mild use.:BangHead:

 

[lwhughes149]

Let me see if I understand. The standard box set of bushings don't work on this jig? I am trying to put together a set of drawers that are 1/2" on the sides and 1/2" on the front with a solid front attached later. My setup on the 1/2" isn't possible on the front drawer. And I can't bring the router bit up any further from the jig top. It seems I have to use 3/4" for the front.
I feel like there is something wrong with my setup when I don't have control over the depth of the bit. My first bit had a v shape, not the shape of the new bits, I ran the bit so long it bent the collar of the bushing, it melted. I was able to raise and lower it to get to the depth I was looking for. With the new router bit I can't do that.

 

[DaveO]

Lorraine, I am a little bit confused as to exactly what is your problem. A little research into Craftsman DT jig is yielding unfavorable reviews and an indication of bushings and bit that are proprietary to Craftsman (a really bad trait of many of their products). Not knowing which model jig you are trying to use, this is just a shot in the dark. I found several references to older C-Man jigs #171.25450 being very similar in design and operation to a Vermont American jig mo. #23461. I found a listing for the VA user manual on this site http://www.vermontamerican.com/SupportCenter/ProductManuals/

Scanning through the manual I found a section that had an illustration that showed the guide bushing sandwiched between the router base and a sub-base. In that configuration the length of the bushing would be shorter allowing less of the bit to protrude from below the base allowing the bit to be used with thinner stock.
This makes me to believe that your jig might only be designed to be used with C-man routers and their base configurations (without major modifications).
There are many different configuration of DT router bits that vary by cutting angle, depth of cut (cutter length). It may be that cutting HB DTs in 1/2" stock might require a different bit than what you had been using with a shorter cutter length or that the bushing length is too long like Jim mentioned.
Any chance of pictures of the jig and your set-up, including the bushing and bit mounted in the router on the jig???
Dave

 

[lwhughes149]

Dave, I will be out of town all day Tuesday but will gladly display pics as soon as possible. I have tried three routers with this jib, Craftsman, PC and Black and Decker. None have been the right combination. I am ready to throw in the towel and buy another jig. Talk with you later. Thanks for the help.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

I have an old (15-20 yrs. +?) Craftsman DT jig and manual around somewhere. It didn't require a Craftsman router -I used a small Rockwell. It used a PC style (Craftsman specific OD?) bushing and I believe a very wide angle, 18 deg. dovetail bit-not all DT bits are the same angle- my Leigh uses several different angle bits depending on the application. When you use a DT jig the bushing, bit/angle, and bit depth are all specific to the particular jig/joint setting.

I'll try to check out the Craftsman jig and manual later today.

I must say once I got it set up it worked fine- I did a whole kitchen's worth of drawers with it, and once set up, it was quick making rabetted half blind DTs (not even sure it could do through DTs) especially since you cut both a side and front/back at the same time- actually faster that my Leigh jig. I can't say much for the quality of the jig's construction. The holddowns were flimsy, and the overall plastic construction left a lot to be desired. I nicked the plastic/phenolic fingers on more than one occasion.

 

[lwhughes149]

I have a catalog from MLCS that has a dovetail jig for 59.95 that cuts pins & tails half blind. I just purchased an 11 piece router guide bushing kit from Rocklet thinking I might solve my problem and if not I could use the bushings in the future. If anyone has the catalog I would appreciate an opinion concerning the jig and whether or not the bushings would accomidate this jig.

 

[DaveO]

Lorraine if this is the jig that you are referring to

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Pins & Tails[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Half Blind[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Dovetail Jig Sets[/FONT]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Easy to use • Fast Setup • Precise and Accurate!
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]INCLUDES a FREE Router Bit!
This solid aluminum template and steel jig are machined precisely for creating strong and secure half blind dovetail joints or half-blind rabbeted dovetail joints. This is the perfect solution for sturdy boxes and drawers with the classic dovetail joint design.The solid aluminum template is CNC machined. The steel beams secure both work pieces snugly. Works for 1/2" to 1" drawer sides and 5/8" to 1" drawer fronts (up to 12" in width). Since you cut both sides of the half-blind dovetail joint at the same time, a perfect fit is assured for this joint. Self-spacing edge guides allow proper offset for precise joint alignment. Detailed instruction manual guides you from initial setup through final assembly. 5/8" router guide bushing (not included) is required (see router template guide kit and #9049 bushing nut/kit).
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[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]

[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Pins & Tails[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Half Blind[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Dovetail Jig Sets
[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]Includes: Aluminum Template (creates 1/2" wide tails that are 27/32" on center), steel jig and a FREE 14° dovetail carbide tipped router bit.
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[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]#6406[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]..with 1/4" shank bit[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular] [/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]List $149.95...[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]SALE[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]$59.95[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]ea
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[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]#8706[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]..with 1/2" shank bit[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular] [/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]List $149.95...[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]SALE[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]$59.95[/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular][/FONT][FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]ea
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Yes, your bushing set should take care of it's bushing needs (provided that you have a 5/8" OD bushing in the set)
I think that you will find that jig much easier to deal with and use for all stock thicknesses. Craftsman(Sears) really shoots themselves in the foot with their proprietary parts and set-up. Had a C-man table saw once and the miter slots weren't standard, I got rid of it pretty quick.
Dave

 

[Ken Massingale]

Lorraine,
Does you Craftsman jig need .400 and .500 bushings? If so, there is hope. Wood Magazine (long story) asked Sears to make available PC style bushings in those sizes and Sears has finally said they will be available around the first of June. I have a PDF file for the item but it's too large to attach. If you would like it email or PM me with your email addy.
ken

 

[lwhughes149]

Yes that is the jig I am looking at. I now believe the bit I was using was the one that came with the Craftsman jig. I burnt it up, end of story. I was able to set up and cut 1/2" for all four sides of my drawers that went into my kitchen pantry. I also used that set up with 3/4" fronts and 1/2" sides for my furniture pieces with a dado cut in the back of the drawer. When I tried to use a new bit and make a new setup, I wasn't able to use the 1/2" front for the drawers that are to go into the slides for my kitchen cabinets. I spun off in every direction trying to figure what I was doing wrong and why nothing would work. I expect I can use 3/4" poplar for the front and the dado cut for the back and be able to make the cuts I need for these drawers. I just have to adapt Lorraine's thinking if I am going to continue to use this jig. I hate to toss a good jig if it will work. Too busy now to get to the shop but will give that jig one final try. If I am not happy I plan to buy the one in the picture unless someone says something different. Thanks to all for your help. I have been away from the computer over a month providing love and care to my husband. I am still sane and he is better every day. Thanks again.

Thanks for the offer Ken, lets see what I come up with first.