Cover for Drain Pipe

ralitaco

New User
Jim
NCWW,
I am remodeling our hall bath in our manufactured home. One of the things we replaced was the vanity which now does not cover the drain pipe (2x3 walls so pipe wouldn't fit in wall). Now I have about a 6.5" gap between the wall and vanity. The opening is about 18" deep and about 33" to the top of the counter. The pipe sticks out about 8" from the back wall and comes up about 27". I want to build some sort of shelving to hide the pipe and provide a place to store some towels, etc. I am also considering extending it up between the mirror and wall as well (more storage). This section would be close to the same width of 6" but only 8" deep and an undetermined height. I am planning to paint it a gloss white to match the vanity.

Any thoughts on how to build this?

I am looking at getting materials from the local big blue box. Not sure if I should use plywood or what they call Appearance Boards. Suggestions?

Since I don't have the same countertop, I am not sure if the lower box should end a few inches above or below the vanity. (I lean towards about 3" above)

Thanks in advance,
Jim

Drain Pipe.JPG

Drain Pipe 2.JPG
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I would probably make a small cabinet that would slide into the space and hide the pipe. It could have open shelves or a door, that is just a style choice. Open shelves could hold toilet paper or rolled up towels. I would make the cabinet less deep than the vanity and a little shorter. But that is also an appearance thing. You could make it full height, floor to ceiling. But when you go above the vanity top you have to deal with the overhang of the vanity top. I would make it a little shorter so it would be under this. A scribe strip on the sides would help avoid issues with the wall or vanity not lining up with the new cabinet. In other words, make the cabinet a little less wide than the opening and then use a filler to make it flush. The filler can easily be cut or planned to fit the opening (the cabinet cannot be easily changed in width).
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Thanks Jim D.
I was thinking about higher to form a sort of back splash, but after some thought and your comments - I think shorter will be better.
If I want to put a taller tower, it can just sit on top of the lower box and be about 1/2" narrower to account for the top.

Funny you mentioned "scribe strip" as I just heard that term the other day for the first time.
 

Jim Harrison

Jim
User
Random suggestions, a normal cabinet is not going to slide in the space due to drain pipes

Suggest a upright board at rear and front of space connected by a heavy bit of framing lumber front to back at the bottom to give it a little weight. You will probably need to build in place due to pipes.

Suggestion, have you considered a piece of white ceramic floor tile to give you a water resistant top for your cabinet?
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
Just close it off and forget about towel shelves, etc. It's more trouble than its worth for a couple of shelves for towels. Just my opinion. You're overthinking the project.
 

Oka

Oka
Corporate Member
I started my contracting life remodeling Bathrooms ....... I a condition like this I would install horizontal cleats on the wall and vanity cabinet Make the finished elevation just below the underside of the cultured marble top.

Then would use Corian or equal to install as a top. Pick a color that is NOT the same color but either a contrast or complement color instead (whatever is your preference). Make sure all seams are gapped @ 1/16" for expansion and movement.

Then, use a finished piece of wood to face it off paint to match. On the left side, use a slide in retaining clip to secure, on the rit side blind drill from inside the cabinet. Caulk the top and the sides (use Dap, Polyseamseal or equal-both are water based)

Finally clean up and you are done.

This way you have a nice top it looks like a step down to hold cosmetics or other things and does not look like an "Oops" kinda fix. THe front face panel is removable in case you ever need to get to the plumbing.

Or........ you could do the same and make 3-4 sets of small shelves do everything exactly the same but instead of a face board, you make it a pre-made shelves assembly.

Just couple of Ideas to start from, good luck !
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Suggest a upright board at rear and front of space connected by a heavy bit of framing lumber front to back at the bottom to give it a little weight. You will probably need to build in place due to pipes.
What do you mean by Heavy Bit of Framing Lumber? I am thinking 2x4's

Suggestion, have you considered a piece of white ceramic floor tile to give you a water resistant top for your cabinet?
This is a great idea!!! and I agree with my wife. LOL

How would you suggest attaching it?
If it is just 1 piece I am thinking I could glue it in place on top of some plywood - YES? NO?
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Just close it off and forget about towel shelves, etc. It's more trouble than its worth for a couple of shelves for towels. Just my opinion. You're overthinking the project.
Thanks for your thoughts Jeff.

"It's more trouble than it's worth" could be said about a lot of projects I have seen on this forum - e.g. - pens, salt and pepper mills, etc.

I have never built anything like this so I figure this is a good place to start. If I mess it up, I can just close it up.
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Oka, thanks for your reply.

...I a condition like this I would install horizontal cleats on the wall and vanity cabinet Make the finished elevation just below the underside of the cultured marble top.
I have never used or made cleats but saw them in another thread for hanging some game boards on the wall. Also the mantel I bought uses one.
They may be just the thing since I will have to work around the door trim to get the pieces in and out. The top could turn up on its side to install and remove.

As for the finished elevation, I am leaning towards 3" down from the ceramic top. I am thinking that would provide a good side wall for cosmetics as you suggested and have the best look.

Then would use Corian or equal to install as a top. Pick a color that is NOT the same color but either a contrast or complement color instead (whatever is your preference). Make sure all seams are gapped @ 1/16" for expansion and movement.
Regarding the top: I like the idea of a solid piece, either ceramic tile or a scrap of granite from one of the many countertop shops in the area. Oh and the color I will use is whatever my wife says. LOL

To what seams are you referring? The ones around the top I guess.

...On the left side, use a slide in retaining clip to secure, on the rit side blind drill from inside the cabinet. Caulk the top and the sides (use Dap, Polyseamseal or equal-both are water based)...
What do you mean by "slide in retaining clip"?

Or........ you could do the same and make 3-4 sets of small shelves do everything exactly the same but instead of a face board, you make it a pre-made shelves assembly.
This is my preferred option. I think I will go with 3 shelves lined up with the drawers in the vanity.
 

Jim Harrison

Jim
User
What do you mean by Heavy Bit of Framing Lumber? I am thinking 2x4's


This is a great idea!!! and I agree with my wife. LOL

How would you suggest attaching it?
If it is just 1 piece I am thinking I could glue it in place on top of some plywood - YES? NO?
Truthfully whatever is handy would work, 2x4 - 2x8, 1xSomething would work, all sort of depends on tools and what is comfortable to you. My preference today would be 1x4 or 3/4 plywood and assemble with Kreg screws and glue, yet in the past I lacked tools and my go to would have been hammer and nails and 2x4’s

On the top if you choose tile you should come close with a 12x24 tile and I think Lowe’s would likely cut to size for you, I’d glue down with the caulk that I used to seal the edges.
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Thank you Jim H.

I couldn't get my mind around how to design it so I made a model:

Drain Pipe Cover 2.JPG

Drain Pipe Cover 4.JPG

I think I am going to use 1x's to make this. I will put a 2x on the back wall to support the top. I will also put screws into the shelves from inside the vanity as Oka suggested.
I have a Kreg jig to attach the sides to the back and the bottom from to the sides.
I can also use the pocket holes to attach the shelves.

I think I would like to use dowels to set the top in place. I will put 1 in each side and 2 in the 2x on the wall. My rationale is so I can remove the top easily to access the pipe.

We'll see how it works out...Best laid plans of mice, you know.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
Carry on. Your model pics look pretty good. You'll want to make everything removable to access the pipe.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Your model looks good.

I attached a picture of a vanity I recently made for a tiny bathroom over my garage. It floats from the walls and had to be assembled in place because the waste pipe goes out on the right wall and the supply piping comes in the left. There is a shower on the left side so I get that but why the waste goes out on the right I have no clue. I thought about trying to fix the plumbing but decided it was easier to just design around it. The third row of little drawers is shallow because the waste pipe is behind them. The hole in the vertical dividers was cut to force the waste pipe to slope down so it flows properly. I posted it to just say that sometimes our abilities can be utilized to come up with somewhat creative solutions that still make good use of the space. I think that is what the OP is trying to do.
 

Attachments

ralitaco

New User
Jim
Thanks Jeff. That is why I am considering using dowels for the top

Jim D, wow!!! That vanity is awesome.
As for fixing the plumbing...agreed. That's what we decided easier and cheaper - plumbers are expensive!!

I am trying to make use of the space but also to test/grow my skills...
Today - small shelves next to vanity
Some point in the distant future - build the entire vanity...maybe
 

Jim Harrison

Jim
User
Truthfully whatever is handy would work, 2x4 - 2x8, 1xSomething would work, all sort of depends on tools and what is comfortable to you. My preference today would be 1x4 or 3/4 plywood and assemble with Kreg screws and glue, yet in the past I lacked tools and my go to would have been hammer and nails and 2x4’s

On the top if you choose tile you should come close with a 12x24 tile and I think Lowe’s would likely cut to size for you, I’d glue down with the caulk that I used to seal the edges.
Looks good to me, if pocket screws, probably just a 1x on rear, connect to shelves with a 1x and that gives you something to attach to cabinet.

Dowels sound like a plan, currently working on attaching parts of a china cabinet in that manner to make transport easier
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
My vanity is just glued and screwed together 3/4 oak plywood from the big box store with 1/4 solid oak edging, solid oak doors and drawer fronts with softwood scraps for the drawer sides and back. Simple stuff.

Glued and screwed joints are simple, take minimal equipment, are fast to do, and hold up well. If the screw heads will show, plug them. But in this case, they should be on the outside and they would not show. No reason to make it more complicated that this.

You could deepen the top compartment, however. That one will be the handiest anyway.
 

ralitaco

New User
Jim
My vanity is just glued and screwed together 3/4 oak plywood from the big box store with 1/4 solid oak edging, solid oak doors and drawer fronts with softwood scraps for the drawer sides and back. Simple stuff.
Simple is a relative term.


Glued and screwed joints are simple, take minimal equipment, are fast to do, and hold up well...
Agreed. That is my plan.


No reason to make it more complicated that this...
You could deepen the top compartment, however. That one will be the handiest anyway.
Funny how these 2 statements seem to be contradictory. LOL

I thought about making it deeper, but then I would need to do something with the sides so they would go all the way to the back wall. (Now I do have a biscuit joiner that I have never used...hmmm)
Ok. Just measured and the pipe comes up a bit too high and if I go over it, the top space will only be 4-5" high.

Hopefully photos of my progress tonight
 

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