Convert to 220?

[ncguy77]

You also have the advantage at 220V of having a less of a percentage of voltage droop.

For example if the resistance of circuit was 1 ohm (not out of question).

If full load current draw at 120V was 20 amps than voltage drop would be (20*1)= 20V which means the motor would have 100V at its input which means its running at 83% (100/120) of rated voltage.

At 220V the current would be 10Amps and the voltage drop would be 10*1 = 10V and which translates to 210V at its input and translates to 95% (210/220) of rated voltage.

Motors will definitely run noticeably better (and cooler) at 95% than 83% of rated voltage.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Cool. Sounds like I was pretty close to the mark in my original post then. It was more feeling than anything but it's cool to understand why it's that way.

Thanks!

Travis

 

[Skymaster]

For what it is worth: I changed all my big machines IE ts,radial, to 220, my shaper is 220v. I saw a big improvement in performance on ts and radial.
Also on the data plate on my Delta TS it is rated at 1.5 hp @ 110 and 2 hp at 220. Startup is almost instant, there is NO bogging when ripping heavy stuff.
For me there is no better way than 220v in a non commercial setting

 

[smitty62]

I don't know how others define power but 220V will definitely give you quicker starting and more torque--also makes it harder for friends to borrow tools.:gar-Bi My uncle converted all his tools possible for just that reason!:thumbs_up

Dick

 

[junquecol]

Also on the data plate on my Delta tablesaw it is rated at 1.5 hp @ 110 and 2 hp at 220.

If Delta had rated this motor for 2.0 HP on 110, they couldn't have put a 15 amp plug on it. By "down rating" it to 1.5 HP on 110, you can plug it into a "standard" wall receptical. Nothing magic here, just marketing.

 

[DonDeJ]

Lower current draw with 220 allows motors to run cooler, thus they are happier and last longer.

 

[Truefire]

Is the conversion worth it?

I would definitely say "Yes" to that. As you mentioned yourself there may be intermittent times whereby two separate pieces of high ampacity rated pieces of equipment are operating at the same time. If both of these were 120 volt pieces of equipment and you were able to convert them to 240 volts, you would indeed be drawing less amps (current) at each tool.

This would decrease the overall amps being drawn at the panel which would be inherently less, the ampacity draw would literally be cut in half. As voltage increases, current (amps) decrease and yes it would indeed be more energy efficient although maybe not all that noticeable on your utilities bill because of such low volumes of usage.

This energy efficiency of higher voltage is why commercial and industrial settings utilize 277/480 volt services. All light fixtures in these settings are 277 volts simply because they draw less current than say a 120 volt fixture. Once again when voltage rises, amp draw decreases. And well when you have hundreds of lay-in flourescent light fixtures all throughout a building well you get the picture.
It might be rather pricey with 120 volt fixtures.

Now obviously persons have discovered that the saws motors fire up more quickly with the usage of 240 volts versus 120 volts and that is simply directly related to having two sine waves entering the windings as compared to one.

E= I x R (E - Voltage) = I (amps) x R (Resistance)

Another answer to another question in regards to the quicker motor start ups and such is the resistance is directly related to wire size (R). The higher voltage is like pressure in a garden hose whereas the Amps is like your volume of water. Easy to up the pressure, downright impossible to increase volume in any particular sized hose.

You get the picture, as voltage increases, amps (current, load) decrease thus having less resistance due to your wire size on your equipment. So it is more efficient in providing power to your tools because the wire size now is more readily apt to handle the load because of the decreased amps.

once again the garden hose analogy:
voltage is like the water pressure
amperage is like the water volume

(the hose in this case being the wire size)

So yes the conversion will benefit you in more ways than one.

Chris

 

[Mt. Gomer]

This energy efficiency of higher voltage is why commercial and industrial settings utilize 277/480 volt services. All light fixtures in these settings are 277 volts simply because they draw less current than say a 120 volt fixture. Once again when voltage rises, amp draw decreases. And well when you have hundreds of lay-in flourescent light fixtures all throughout a building well you get the picture.
It might be rather pricey with 120 volt fixtures.

I'm not sure about this part. Energy is sold in Watts, not amps. My understanding is that as amps go down volts go up proportionally making the number of watts used unchanged. I think that the cost savings in large shops occurs when 3 Phase power (I'm guessing what is being used in the example above) is compared to 1 Phase power.

 

[Splint Eastwood]

All I know, is that, with all this talk 'bout 230v, is Im going to run a couple of outlets in my

Garage/shop, so If I want to upgrade past 1.5 hp I can!

Thanks!

M<

 

[mkepke]

All I know, is that, with all this talk 'bout 230v, is Im going to run a couple of outlets in my

Garage/shop, so If I want to upgrade past 1.5 hp I can!

Thanks!

M<

Matt - this is a good idea. I too started out with 120V tools and am at the point where most of the stationary tools are 240V.

Tools aside, if you want to put a HVAC unit (even a window job), a welder,.... - then 240V gives you access to much higher capacity units.

-Mark

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>> Lower current draw with 220 allows motors to run cooler, thus they are happier and last longer.

Nope, not true. Dual voltage 120/240 volt motors run on 120 volts internally. (Think of dual voltage motors as two 120 volt motors on a common shaft.) When you re-wire all you are doing is changing the two coils from parallel to series or visa versa. The coils always see 120 volts. The motor doesn't care whether the input voltage is 240 volts or 120 volts. Therefore, same voltage and amperage to the coils so the same heat is produced.

 

[Howard Acheson]

>>> Plus motors last longer ran on three phase circuitry (240 volts) versus single phase (120 volts).

In North America, individual residences and small commercial buildings will usually have three-wire single-phase 240 volt distribution. The 240 volts is split into two 120 volt phases (called "split voltage"). 240 volt motors are not three phase. They are single phase.

As I said in another posting in this thread, dual voltage 120/240 volt motors run on 120 volts internally. (Think of dual voltage motors as two 120 volt motors on a common shaft.) When you re-wire all you are doing is changing the two coils from parallel to series or visa versa. Each coil always only sees 120 volts and half of the 120 volt amperage. The motor doesn't care whether the input voltage is 240 volts or 120 volts. Therefore, same voltage and amperage to the coils so the same heat is produced no matter which wiring configuration is used.

 

[richlife]

All I know, is that, with all this talk 'bout 230v, is Im going to run a couple of outlets in my Garage/shop, so If I want to upgrade past 1.5 hp I can!
Thanks! M<

Yup, I definitely agree on this one. All the good info provides the comparison of 110 vs 220, but this is the big WHY. I've got 60A running into my shop and immediately converted all my 110/220s to 220 primarily for the reduced amp draw (more overhead). Since then, every potential new tool is evaluated based on whether is 220 capable. Also, you have to look at the complete new range of tools that are possibly available to you just because you have 220.
Rich

 

[Gotcha6]

Did that in my shop with outlet in the ceiling for the TS. Currently running on 120v but I wired it with 12/3 romex & left the other wire nutted off. If I ever get a bigger saw, I'm ready - just gotta change the receptacle & breaker. :icon_thum

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Did that in my shop with outlet in the ceiling for the tablesaw. Currently running on 120v but I wired it with 12/3 romex & left the other wire nutted off. If I ever get a bigger saw, I'm ready - just gotta change the receptacle & breaker. :icon_thum

Why 12/3? Going to run a multi-wire circuit?

 

[Gotcha6]

Just in case I decided to do 2 - 120v circuits instead. I've been running the mulitwire branch circuit thing by the electricians @ work & they agree it would work to have both a 120v AND 240v circuit fed by this setup since it is now required to have circuits sharing a common neutral on a 2 pole breaker. The local code inspectors say it's against the code, though, so I guess I'll just have it in there capped off - for now.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Just in case I decided to do 2 - 120v circuits instead. I've been running the mulitwire branch circuit thing by the electricians @ work & they agree it would work to have both a 120v AND 240v circuit fed by this setup since it is now required to have circuits sharing a common neutral on a 2 pole breaker. The local code inspectors say it's against the code, though, so I guess I'll just have it in there capped off - for now.

Makes sense to me!

 

[Truefire]

I'm not sure about this part. Energy is sold in Watts, not amps. My understanding is that as amps go down volts go up proportionally making the number of watts used unchanged. I think that the cost savings in large shops occurs when 3 Phase power (I'm guessing what is being used in the example above) is compared to 1 Phase power.

Travis, Energy (current, amperage) usage is measured in watts. Watts is indeed the amperage usage. In reference to My understanding is that as amps go down volts go up proportionally making the number of watts used unchanged
.

As you mentioned, the user is indeed paying for the usage of watts and this is amperage usage, also known as (current). However there aren't any fluctuations in voltage that makes amps rise and fall. That falls on the demands of the device or electrical appliance in question. Now as ohms law reveals you are correct there are changes that occur. These changes are typically as any given voltage applied changes, the same device would use less current.

If you will take notice if you have NO appliances or equipment running on any given service the electrical meter will not be moving. The voltage is ever presence but there aren't any appliances drawing current.

Just as one's Water Utility Firm charges for usage of gallons (volume) of water used not the pressure at one's residence or place of business. The 'water pressure' is synonymous with voltage in electricity whereas the current (watts usage, amperage usage) is like your volume (gallons) of water.

"Water Pressure" comparitive to "Voltage"
"Volume of water" comparitive to "Current" or watts​

My 2 cents worth, Chris :XXfridge:

 

[Truefire]

>>> Plus motors last longer ran on three phase circuitry (240 volts) versus single phase (120 volts).

In North America, individual residences and small commercial buildings will usually have three-wire single-phase 240 volt distribution. The 240 volts is split into two 120 volt phases (called "split voltage"). 240 volt motors are not three phase. They are single phase.

As I said in another posting in this thread, dual voltage 120/240 volt motors run on 120 volts internally. (Think of dual voltage motors as two 120 volt motors on a common shaft.) When you re-wire all you are doing is changing the two coils from parallel to series or visa versa. Each coil always only sees 120 volts and half of the 120 volt amperage. The motor doesn't care whether the input voltage is 240 volts or 120 volts. Therefore, same voltage and amperage to the coils so the same heat is produced no matter which wiring configuration is used.

Howard you are correct my friend and thanks for pointing that error of mine out. :eusa_naug I stand to be corrected. I knew that 240 volt circuitry isn't three phase but in the composition of writing such mentioned 240 volt as being three phase. AND IT certainly isn't.

My Error!!! Sorry guys.

I have edited my earlier post and removed the erroneous information. Sorry for the misleading information posted earlier.

Chris

 

[Truefire]

You also have the advantage at 220V of having a less of a percentage of voltage droop.

For example if the resistance of circuit was 1 ohm (not out of question).

If full load current draw at 120V was 20 amps than voltage drop would be (20*1)= 20V which means the motor would have 100V at its input which means its running at 83% (100/120) of rated voltage.

At 220V the current would be 10Amps and the voltage drop would be 10*1 = 10V and which translates to 210V at its input and translates to 95% (210/220) of rated voltage.

Motors will definitely run noticeably better (and cooler) at 95% than 83% of rated voltage.

Jim, thanks a million for this tid bit. Neato. Learn something new all the time when hangin out with you guys. :icon_cheers