Clamping box joints

[Bas]

I'm making some drawers, using box joints. I'm trying to figure out how to clamp this during glue-up. I made the fingers slightly proud, so that I can plane/ scrape/ sand them flush afterwards. That's easier than sanding down the sides.

Those proud fingers do pose a problem with clamping. The only solution I can think of right now is to make four custom cauls that fit over each corner, by making recesses that match the finger pattern. Is there an easier solution?

Does it require a new tool? :tool:

 

[toolferone]

When I did some small boxes with box joint, I just clamped right behind the corners and it worked fine for me. A whole lot easier the custom finger cauls.

 

[Glennbear]

Maybe I am missing something here but I see no reason why your clamping force has to be directly over the joint, a caul directly alongside your proud mortises should suffice. On that short a span I do not see where deflection would be a problem :dontknow:

 

[jeff...]

Could you use some thin peice of wood to even out your clamps?

 

[Glennbear]

I would have posted sooner but I was watching the squirrel video link Bas posted :rotflm:

 

[Gofor]

What Tom and Jeff said. No new tools for this one. (unless you don't have a band clamp, recessed corner clamp, chain saw, felder planer/jointer/belt sander combo machine, etc):rolf:

Go

 

[sediener]

As long as your joints are only proud by 1/32-1/16, I think a flat cork-lined caul should compress enough to give you good pressure where you need it

- Steve

 

[Joe Scharle]

Like Tom said; I've never had any problems with Bessys just behind the fingers. But I can imagine a lot of problems taking too much time getting the 'box' square with all that glue surface setting up! Most glue has a +/- 10 min open time, so I apply glue to one end then draw the sides in with clamps, then do the same for the other end. Finally clamp for square. BTW, I've tried a pair of Merles and they don't have enough umph to draw a drawer size box together.
Joe

 

[Bas]

I was definitely over thinking this one. :icon_scra I did a dry fit with the clamp behind the fingers, and it looks nice and tight. Best of all, I can see the joint clearly. I like the cork-lined caul idea too, except that it covers things up. As Joe said, gluing up box joints can be a stressful, being able to see what's going on helps a lot. :eusa_dancOn more than one occasion, I've glued myself to the project or at least needed a haircut afterwards. :rolf:

BTW, not sure where I read this, but I picked up a four Stanley corner braces at the local BORG. Although it looks like clamp city when it's all together, those braces really help getting the drawer square.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Bas, make some of these. Clamped, they will square up your work.

 

[striker]

I use soft pine for cauls. Start the joints together as little as possible then reach in with a glue brush and dab a little bit of glue ( slow set) on every cheek of the joint. clamp together and don't spare the clamps. The pine will crush before damaging anything and still get the pressure where want it. Oh, when I remember, I put clear tape on the caul to prevent everything from getting glued up.

More than one way to skin a rat - this is just what I do. Good Luck

Stephen