Circular saw blade recommendations

[manfre]

I have a hand-me-down 7 1/4" sawcat that is old and most likely has the original blade (looks like a 24T). The info plate on the saw has worn off and the blade has no marking on it. Assuming I can clean up the bottom plate (it's clearly been used on asphalt shingles at least once) and the blade is parallel to the guide, I was thinking of purposing it for breaking down sheets (plywood, mdf, hardboard) using a guide rail built specifically for the saw.

I am leaning toward the Freud D0740X Diablo 40T. I like the price, but I am willing to spend more for a better quality cut. I'm not sure if a better blade would have a noticeable difference because I always plan on using the zero clearance guide.

 

[jtdums]

First of all I agree that the Freud blades are the way to go. Price for performance they can't be beat.
I think the use of the zero clearance insert will make a world of difference, but I have had great luck with the D0760x 60 tooth blade for sheet goods. It consistently give great performance and for only about $5 more I find it is worth it.
If you are only rough dimensioning with the circ saw and final on the table, then you could save the money to put into a purpose built blade for the the table saw instead.
Happy Cutting.

 

[toolferone]

Either of those blades are good choices, but if you want top of the line then Freuds LU79R007 is a awesome blade. I have the 10" version on my table saw and love it. It has lots of carbide so it can be sharpened many times. I also use this blade as my main crosscut blade on solid wood

Besides your zero cut guide also the amount the blade sticks out below the wood is important too. We recommend no more then half the height of the carbide tooth being exposed above (table saw) or below(circular saw) the wood surface for the best cut.

 

[manfre]

Thanks for the recommendations! I ordered the D0760X. The price is good and it will be worlds better than the current blade. I'll probably spring for top of the line blades when I buy for the TS.

 

[Don Alexander]

you already got a really good blade in the 60 tooth Freud Tom's suggestion for a TS blade is pretty much a topof the line blade as far as performance is conecerned the only thing you will do by buying more expensive blades is spend more money been there and done that Freud blades can't be beat
without shelling out a lot more cash

of course that is ultimately up to each individual person :wsmile:

 

[Gofor]

I predict you will see a great improvement over the old blade. First, Freud is really good, and second, 40t over 24 will make a big difference. However, you may need to slow down the feed rate with the higher number of teeth, and you may want to set the saw penetration a little closer to the surface (shallower gullets) to get the best quality cut.

JMTCW

Go

 

[Glennbear]

Either of those blades are good choices, but if you want top of the line then Freuds LU79R007 is a awesome blade. I have the 10" version on my table saw and love it. It has lots of carbide so it can be sharpened many times. I also use this blade as my main crosscut blade on solid wood

Besides your zero cut guide also the amount the blade sticks out below the wood is important too. We recommend no more then half the height of the carbide tooth being exposed above (table saw) or below(circular saw) the wood surface for the best cut.

I have several Freud blades in various configurations in use on a few of my machines and have been very pleased with their performance. I was however surprised at your height recommendation, the way I am reading this the carbide tips are just peeking above (below) the wood surface. Is this recommended for all style blades ? If that is the case then I have been WAYYY off in my setups :gar-La; What you are saying does make sense though since the less blade passing through the cut the less friction etc. to slow things down, burn etc. :wsmile:

 

[toolferone]

Glenn,

Yes Freud recomends that height for all our blades. As you raise or lower the blade you change the angle the tooth enters and exits the work peice. We have designed the blades to give the best cut at the height mentioned. Hope that helps.

 

[manfre]

The new blade arrived and after a few test cuts in 1/2" OSB, I'm very happy with it. A nice clean cut every time. When I took the old blade off, I checked the teeth to see if it could be resharpened. Not a chance. Some of the teeth were missing chunks.

The only downside to the blade is that I kind of want a new circular saw to make it less of a pain to adjust the depth.

 

[Don Alexander]

ouch OSB with a new blade ...... are you planning on cutting hardwood plywood with that blade?

heres a suggestion that i have found to be useful maybe you too

keep a relatively cheap blade for cutting stuff like OSB and melamine/particleboard and save the good blade for stuff like hardwood plywood ; there is so much glue in OSB and particleboard that it seriously dulls blades in a hurry if you then cut hardwood ply with the same blade you probably won't like the results

HTH

 

[manfre]

Good to know about cutting OSB. I didn't have any hardwood plywood scraps laying about and wanted to make some test cuts. I'll use the other circular saw whenever I need to cut OSB.

 

[junquecol]

The only downside to the blade is that I kind of want a new circular saw to make it less of a pain to adjust the depth.

Another case of Woodguy disease. Call the medics, QUICK before it spreads.