Buffing a Tung Oil finish with steel wool????

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DaveO

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DaveO
On several projects lately I have been using Behr Scandinavian Tung Oil finish. From my research it is a Tung oil, other oils and varnish blend. At $6.00 a quart it was a lot cheaper than mixing my own brew.
It recommends buffing the last application with 4/0 steel wool. I have heard of applying these types of finish with steel wool/ or synthetic pads. And also have heard of applying a final paste wax with the steel wool.
I consider steel wool a fine abrasive, how does it enhance a oil or wax finish and not leave scratch marks????


Dave:)
 

FuzzWuzz16

New User
Jim Fossler
Dave,

I'm not sure exactly how it works, but when I've used 4/0 steel wool as the rub out for the final finish, it appears that the steel wool forms a slurry of the wood and finish which then evens out the surface and dries to a very nice satin finish. That has been my experience and I've really liked the look on the pieces I've done.

When I've done it with teak and teak oil, it has tended to fill in the pores a bit and levels out the surface a bit more, but not like a typical filler would.

A little paste wax will really make the surface very nice to the touch as well as to the eye.:icon_thum

Jim
 
J

jeff...

Dave - take a scrap piece of glass and try to scratch it with 0000 steel wool it won't scratch it. Same thing with a hard finish it just makes the finish smoother.
 

Joe Scharle

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Joe
It was the first finishing technique that I learned and it was a standard practice in the '50s, so it must have been around for a lot longer. As been said, it levels the nibs and lays then down in a slurry. Personally, I prefer to buff my final coat when dry as it gives a glassy touch by knocking off the pitting and bubbles left by drying finish. BORG wool is OK, but you'll see a big difference with Lieberman.
BTW, sometime in the '80s the technique was put down by the mags as damping the popping effect of the then popular technique, but I've never been in love with finishing and tend to just get it done.
Worked then, works now!
Joe
 

Trent Mason

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Trent Mason
Dave,

I'm by no means an expert on finishing, but I used 0000 steel wool between coats of Tung Oil on the bed and it came out great. HTH.

cheers,

Trent :eek:ccasion1
 

Steve Martin

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Steve Martin
As others have said 4/0 steel can give a great final finish to many woods, but I've had bad experiences with some holly, light colored maple and the sap wood of black walnut. The steel wool seems to leave a darker color on the lighter colored wood. Maybe I'm not cleaning them off adequately before using the steel wool but that's my experience. Also don't use steel wool on ANY wood with high tannic levels when they are wet with water. The resulting stains require prodigious sanding or even going back to scrapers, gouges, chisels and/or planes to get below the stain.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Same here. I finished a magazine stand made of cherry with BLO/ MS/ Poly. After the final coat, rubbed it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax. Super smooth, silky to the touch. No scratches, and it also removed the dust nibs that had accumulated.

How does it work? Magic.
 

Larry Rose

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Larry Rose
I end nearly all projects (inside) with a coat of wax applied with 0000 steel wool. It leaves a surface that you want to touch every time you pass it. Also takes a bit of the new shine off and softens the look. Try it, you will be pleased.
 

Howard Acheson

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Howard
>> I consider steel wool a fine abrasive, how does it enhance a oil or wax finish and not leave scratch marks????

Obviously, steel wool and non-woven abrasive pads are abrasives and smoothing a surface involves scratching the surface. The key is to create ever smaller scratches until they become invisible. In general, 4/0 steel wool and gray scotchbrite rubbed in the direction of the grain, leave such fine scratches as to be almost invisible. That's what happens as you go from 400 to 600 to 1200 sandpaper followed by a polishing compound and a swirl remove. Each is an ever finer abrasive until it gets to the point where the surface looks glossy.

OK, what's that mean as far as using an oil/varnish finish. First, understand that an oil/varnish finish is intended to be an in-the-wood finish that leaves the look and feel of the wood. It's not intended to produce a super smooth gloss finish. Nor are then as durable as some other finishes. If you want gloss and/or durability, forget the oil/varnish and use a film finish like varnish, shellac or lacquer.

There are three application techniques for an oil/varnish. The first coat is the same for all. Apply the finish, let it set for 20-30 minutes and then wipe it as dry as you can. Let it dry overnight. The next steps are different. One maintains the most natural look to the wood. The other two impart a somewhat soft glow luster and a somewhat smooth feel to the wood.

The first is to just apply another coat of the oil/varnish just like the first, let it fully dry for 5-7 days and you're done.

The second, is to apply the second application using 4/0 steel wool or 400 W&D sandpaper creating a slurry which files the pores, wiping lightly after 30 minutes and letting it dry. After 7 days you can apply a paste wax. The last technique is to do the first coat as above, then do the second step above, let it dry and then, not using wax, rub the surface with 4/0 steel wool or gray scotchbrite. This will give you a somewhat lesser glow and a very natural look to the wood.

The only way to know what you like or to see what looks better on your project is to test out the options. There's no magic here. Oil/varnish products are all pretty similar. While the Behr contains only a very small dollop of real tung oil, it is really no different than most of the other faux Tung Oil Finishes". Making your own really gives you a much better finish.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Thanks all for your confirmations. I guess I've considered 4/0 steel wool a coarser abrasive than it is. I often buff out a finish with a gray ScotchBright type pad, but then always apply a final coat of finish over that. Once I have my final top surface I wax it with a soft cloth and buff.
We'll see how it works tonight. I may have learned a new techinque.

Dave:)
 

5Etek-mike

New User
Michael Lemings
I'm anxious to attempt these techniques as well. Up to now, I've only used steel wool "between" applications. Great topic, and great Jeff Jewitt article! :icon_thum
 
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