Breadboard end tenons

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DaveO

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DaveO
What's the best way to cut them? I have considered a dado set, but mine sucks and I wouldn't feel comfortable moving a 40" wide by 15" deep piece accross the tablesaw. I don't have a rabbet or shoulder plane so the by hand method is out. I am seriously considering a router with a straight edge. Am I fixin' to do something stupid? Any good or better suggestions?
Dave:)
 

charlie s

New User
Charles
Dave:

I think a router is going to be your best bet. Obviously, you need to be extremely careful to cut both sides to the exact same distance, easier said than done for me. I always cut my breadboard on the tablesaw, setting my blade to the right height and setting the fence to start cutting in the middle of the board and then working my way out to where the slot matches the thickness of the tenon. I then use my mortiser to square up the slot in the breadboard. One thing I've started doing is to drive the breadboard onto the table top, then take it into the house and let it sit for a couple of weeks. Then I cut them to the correct width; that will minimize the movement of the top and lessen the gap between the end of the breadboard and the edge of the table.

Yeah, it's all a pain but it will keep your table top dead flat.

Charlie
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I am thinking of using a 1 1/2" tenon in a 4" breadboard. Is that to large, and where could I find a McRabbetting bit that will cut that dia.?
Dave:)
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
DaveO said:
I am thinking of using a 1 1/2" tenon in a 4" breadboard. Is that to large, and where could I find a McRabbetting bit that will cut that dia.?
Dave:)

Hmm....good point Dave. I think I would cut the shoulders on the TS to the correct depth using a sled and then use a router and straight edge to cut the remainder of the tenon.

D L
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Good idea on using the sled to cut the cheek cuts. I can do that and that way I won't worry about any chip-out from the router. I'll start on the edge and route back to the cheek cut. I won't really need a straight edge, just a steady hand and a off-set router base.
Dave:)
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
DaveO said:
Good idea on using the sled to cut the cheek cuts. I can do that and that way I won't worry about any chip-out from the router. I'll start on the edge and route back to the cheek cut. I won't really need a straight edge, just a steady hand and a off-set router base.
Dave:)

Dave, if you go that route you may want to clamp a straight edge across the top so you won't cut beyond your cheek cut.

Are you still planning on QSWO for this project?

D L
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Good point, I have a tendency to screw things up when a router gets involved. Yes QSWO, is planned and deployed. I milled the rough stock today and 4-squared it. Got a little glue ups done also.
Dave:)
 

D L Ames

New User
D L Ames
DaveO said:
Good point, I have a tendency to screw things up when a router gets involved. Yes QSWO, is planned and deployed. I milled the rough stock today and 4-squared it. Got a little glue ups done also.
Dave:)

What no WIP pix yet.:eusa_naug LOL

D L
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
A pile of boards, and some glued together aren't that interesting. Tomorrow I will do the breadboards, and hopefully cut the mortises..then I'll have something to show :-D :-D Don't worry I've taken pictures of all the boring steps too.
Dave:)
 

Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
dang Dave! No knee operation slows you down! maybe you should change your handle to "Six million $ man" ,cause they much have put some souped up parts in you when you were under the knife! :rolf:
 
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