Block plane model

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Came across this block plane feasibility model that I made several years ago from sycamore firewood to practice the techniques.

Ever thought about making a wooden plane? A laminated plane of this style does not require advanced skills and is fun to learn. Even if you only keep it on your desk, it is a good practice project before making a real one.
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The bed and breast are just wooden blocks with one angled face. The sides are outlined with saw cuts, chopped with a chisels, and smoothed with a small router plane. The wedge looks more complicated than it is to make. To make your own iron, hardening and tempering O1 tool steel is an easy skill to learn using a MAPP or other torch, quenching in peanut oil, and tempering in a toaster oven.
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Paul Sellers has this video that teaches how to make a laminated wooden plane of this style.
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Graham, at 87 years old, I am running low on endurance and a whole day at anything is getting to be a bit much.
 

Clfton Glasgow

Cliff
User
Came across this block plane feasibility model that I made several years ago from sycamore firewood to practice the techniques.

Ever thought about making a wooden plane? A laminated plane of this style does not require advanced skills and is fun to learn. Even if you only keep it on your desk, it is a good practice project before making a real one.

Very nice! Here's one I did based on Richard Maguire's videos
 

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Man with many vises
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Nice jointer.

The first plane that I made in a class had the Krenov pin over a solid wedge. Somehow that soured me and I have always used a traditional wedge and abutments. YMMV I guess.
 

Clfton Glasgow

Cliff
User
Nice jointer.

The first plane that I made in a class had the Krenov pin over a solid wedge. Somehow that soured me and I have always used a traditional wedge and abutments. YMMV I guess.
Thanks! That was my first (successful) build so I don't really have anything to which to compare it. (In the background you can see the body of a coffin smoother that was plane build number 0 but it didn't work well at all. I think I should have used a steeper bed angle and I used a crap iron & chip breaker. I'll eventually remake it....)
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Thanks! That was my first (successful) build so I don't really have anything to which to compare it. (In the background you can see the body of a coffin smoother that was plane build number 0 but it didn't work well at all. I think I should have used a steeper bed angle and I used a crap iron & chip breaker. I'll eventually remake it....)
Personally, I like a 3/16” or 1/4” thick iron with no cap iron. Once you have made your first one, they are a snap to create. A thicker iron does not need a cap iron to stiffen it to avoid chatter, IMO.
 

Clfton Glasgow

Cliff
User
Personally, I like a 3/16” or 1/4” thick iron with no cap iron. Once you have made your first one, they are a snap to create. A thicker iron does not need a cap iron to stiffen it to avoid chatter, IMO.
I was using an iron and chip breaker stolen from a cheap plane I had lying around....

The jointer has a Hock iron I bought new
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
That first plane was from the very first plane making class taught by Bill Anderson. Hock iron set, Krenov style, with a wooden cross pin. That pin and the solid wedge really restricted access to shavings with your plucking finger. A separate problem was I could not stop the cap iron from slipping on the iron when adjusting the cut.
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Next plane (a coffin smoother) had a traditional wedge and I never made another Krenov style.

Edit: better pic
 
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Man with many vises
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I was thinking about making a Krenov style. His books have teased me for 20 or so years. I will take your comments on wedge vs pin in thought.
Scott, that Paul Sellers video is a great guide for a first wooden plane build,
 

Clfton Glasgow

Cliff
User
Scott, that Paul Sellers video is a great guide for a first wooden plane build,
Have you got a link? Paul has so many videos! I looked but couldn't find it.

Here's Richard's guide (you have to create a free account):
 

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Man with many vises
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Have you got a link? Paul has so many videos! I looked but couldn't find it.

Here's Richard's guide (you have to create a free account):

Look back at my first post in this thread for the link.
 
I was using an iron and chip breaker stolen from a cheap plane I had lying around....

The jointer has a Hock iron I bought new
Is it true that Hock was bought by Lee Valley? I have been reading the newer irons are a crap shoot from Hock and then I think I read that was because they were bought, I THINK by Lee Valley.
 
I am really considering making my first wooden plane, I have Richard McGuire's video as well as Paul Sellers. I also have a 6-inch piece of oil hardened O1 tool steel 3/8 x 2 that is already annealed. Yes, it pays to have a good friend who is a professional welder!! I am fairly certain I won't need a cap iron with this hunk of steel. He bought it from McMaster-Carr for a job and that was what was left. I looked it up and from what I can tell this would be OK for a plane blade, I think. Do you with a lot more experience have any thoughts on the steel size, type or making a plane with it?
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
I am really considering making my first wooden plane, I have Richard McGuire's video as well as Paul Sellers. I also have a 6-inch piece of oil hardened O1 tool steel 3/8 x 2 that is already annealed. Yes, it pays to have a good friend who is a professional welder!! I am fairly certain I won't need a cap iron with this hunk of steel. He bought it from McMaster-Carr for a job and that was what was left. I looked it up and from what I can tell this would be OK for a plane blade, I think. Do you with a lot more experience have any thoughts on the steel size, type or making a plane with it?
3/8” is a bit thick. It would work but the plane would be heavy and the iron cumbersome to sharpen.

An old lawn mower blade is another source for an inexpensive iron. Cuts easily with an angle grinder. Actually, almost any steel will work for a bit but a hardened and tempered steel will stay sharp much, much longer.
 
3/8” is a bit thick. It would work but the plane would be heavy and the iron cumbersome to sharpen.

An old lawn mower blade is another source for an inexpensive iron. Cuts easily with an angle grinder. Actually, almost any steel will work for a bit but a hardened and tempered steel will stay sharp much, much longer.
Could I just have my friend take his fly cutter on his mill and mill it to the desired thickness? What would the best thickness be?
 

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